General Tech Fuel Flooding; Float Adjustments and Fuel Pressure

[KVH]

I installed my fuel pump pressure regulator. See pic. Nothing I could do would make my floats operate properly and I was continually flooding.

A few days ago, I tried adjusting the floats way up, then way down, and nothing made any difference.

I had near 4 PSI from the pump, and the recommended maximum is 2.5.

I’m not ready to declare victory yet, but I finally have floats that are operating the way the Triumph Manuel suggests. My fuel pressure is now set at near 2.2 psi.

I’m not seeing any flooding, and using the “lift the piston method“ I’m finally able to make some sense of the mixture adjustments. We’ll see.

I’m still not convinced I won’t be towed back home again soon.

 

[mctriumph]

This is what electric pumps get you into. I have always tried to stay with the factory mech pump
for this reason.IMHO a nice rebuilt original is the ticket to happy motoring.
The race car we drove for years had THREE electric pumps.Two primary pumps into the swirl pot
and one to the fuel injection from the pot. You could never go anywhere without a spare one of each.
If for some reason you are heck bent on an electric pump NEVER buy a cheap one!! The regulator too!!
Mad dog

 

[Sarastro]

That Holley regulator is a good unit. I have also had the problem with mechanical pumps forcing fuel past the float valve, so all my older cars have electric pumps and that regulator. I keep it set around 2 PSI; you don't need more.

 

[KVH]

All good to know. Thanks. BTW, why do so many people match an electric pump with a regulator? Why not mechanical with regulator?

Are the electric ones superior?

Also, I always fret over my weak generator. If I had an electric fuel pump would I want to switch to an alternator?

 

[CJD]

Electric usually puts out too much pressure. Try to find a 2.5psi electric...?

For true performance, the electric with regulator was the way to go prior to fuel injection. You could place the electric pump at (or in to keep it cool) the tank and pressurize to 14 psi or more. Then regulate it at the carb down to 6psi American, or 2.5 psi British. The extra pressure prevented vapor lock. We used to launch cars at 1 G force, so the 15 feet from the tank to the carb was like pumping fuel 15 feet straight up! You would loose 10 psi on the launch alone.

And, "yes", if you add anything to a TR, you will need to upgrade the charging system. The TR3 puts out 21 amps. Ignition is 2amp, Headlights are 10amp, and running lights about 4amps. Drive at night in the rain with the wipers at 6 amps and you are already overloading the dynamo! If you add an electric fan, electric fuel pump, or a radio, it would be a good idea to upgrade the charging system. Or, you could switch the lights to LED and perhaps delay the upgrade.