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I just took out my front bearings to check,clean& repack and on inspection decide to just replace them. I plan to order 2 oil seals,2 bearing hub-in,2 bearing hub-out. Should I get a couple new spacers while I'm at it? And what about the "shim" ? how do I know which ones to get?(.003, .005, .010, .015) or should I just re use the shims that where in there ? It's a 61 AH3000 car# HBT7l/13279. So that makes it a "BT7" .....I think???
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Front wheel bearings
- Thread starter Donny_L
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Randy Forbes
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The preload has to be set very carefully for the front wheel bearings.
I have a ton of pictures showing how it's all done, but unless you read the manual, to know what has to be done, you might as well be peeing up a rope.
Buy an assortment of shims, then when you measure, you stand a better chance of having the ones you need.
I have a ton of pictures showing how it's all done, but unless you read the manual, to know what has to be done, you might as well be peeing up a rope.
Buy an assortment of shims, then when you measure, you stand a better chance of having the ones you need.
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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Randy Forbes said:
Yep. In my experience, it's usually 0.030" give or take.
BlueRidge1
Jedi Warrior
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Donny L
Read the thread from Robert 560 updated my Healey web site and drop down to the bullet where it reads sloted and drilled rotors. Just below that is a video showing how to get the correct load on your front wheel bearings. Good stuff. I also put this message on that thread so it should be easy to find.
Bob
Read the thread from Robert 560 updated my Healey web site and drop down to the bullet where it reads sloted and drilled rotors. Just below that is a video showing how to get the correct load on your front wheel bearings. Good stuff. I also put this message on that thread so it should be easy to find.
Bob
Even a feeb like me has had success rebuilding most of the assemblies on my BT7 with the help of the factory manual. Well written ,concise, and easy to follow. --elrey
Robert560
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Keoke said:
Keoke, could you summarize what's different? Having both watched that MG video as well as done the bearings in my Healey, I really didn't notice any differences... this having read the Healey workshop manual, though I've not read an MG manual, so maybe it has things different.
~Bob
--elrey
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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HI BOB
Try Norman Knocks tech tip book if you can get your hands on one. Basically lubrication and torquing of the searings is not the same. At the Colorado meet many years ago we experienced many severe bearing failures caused by following non Healey instructions. I think Roger Moment has written up some of the worst we saw.---Keoke
Try Norman Knocks tech tip book if you can get your hands on one. Basically lubrication and torquing of the searings is not the same. At the Colorado meet many years ago we experienced many severe bearing failures caused by following non Healey instructions. I think Roger Moment has written up some of the worst we saw.---Keoke
Bob_Spidell
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The idea is to stack up the spacer and shims until you get a certain amount of end float. The manual specifies a two-step process: 1) add too many shims and measure the end float and 2) add/remove shims to take away the end float you measured in #1 (working from memory here, but that's basically it). Since I haven't seen shims less than 0.003" you're going to get +/- 0.002" (which IIRC is close to the tolerable end float). Note: inspect the stub axle for any signs of cracking or fatigue while you're at it.
The key points are to get the spacing correct before you pack with grease (you don't need to fill all the cavities, either, just pack the bearings well). You need to make sure the bearings are properly seated in their races then torque down well. Also, make sure the inside spacer the seal rides on is smooth with no groove (touch it up with emery cloth or get a new one if necessary). Pre-lube the lip of the seal with grease. If you can turn the hub easily with little or no end float you'll be OK. DO NOT SPIN THE HUB/BEARINGS ANY MORE THAN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY BEFORE GREASING.
Be sure when setting up and finalizing you torque to spec (basically, as tight as you can get it with the cotter in a slot). I failed to do this right one time and the keyed flatwasher spun. Made a lot of noise for a couple miles--thought I'd lost a bearing for sure--but the noise stopped after the washer wedged itself in the spindle threads (this was at start of 3,000 mile trip).
The key points are to get the spacing correct before you pack with grease (you don't need to fill all the cavities, either, just pack the bearings well). You need to make sure the bearings are properly seated in their races then torque down well. Also, make sure the inside spacer the seal rides on is smooth with no groove (touch it up with emery cloth or get a new one if necessary). Pre-lube the lip of the seal with grease. If you can turn the hub easily with little or no end float you'll be OK. DO NOT SPIN THE HUB/BEARINGS ANY MORE THAN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY BEFORE GREASING.
Be sure when setting up and finalizing you torque to spec (basically, as tight as you can get it with the cotter in a slot). I failed to do this right one time and the keyed flatwasher spun. Made a lot of noise for a couple miles--thought I'd lost a bearing for sure--but the noise stopped after the washer wedged itself in the spindle threads (this was at start of 3,000 mile trip).
Randy Forbes
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Pages 7 through 11 here: https://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album170?page=7 give a pretty good visual essay of the process.
Keoke
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OK. DO NOT SPIN THE HUB/BEARINGS ANY MORE THAN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY BEFORE GREASING.
And for goodness sakes do not put any in dry!!!
Be sure when setting up and finalizing you torque to between 50 and 70 LBS(basically, you can get the cotter in its slot within this range.
And for goodness sakes do not put any in dry!!!
Be sure when setting up and finalizing you torque to between 50 and 70 LBS(basically, you can get the cotter in its slot within this range.
Brinkerhoff
Jedi Knight
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No , don't concern yourself about that.
Bob_Spidell
Yoda
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Probably didn't hurt anything, but as you can see from Randy's photo the spacer is tapered on the outer end and the shims are sized for that end (plus, it makes it easier to do the adjusting--you don't have to pull the spacer out). The shim dimensions are a match for the inner race on the outer bearings.
Putting the shims on the inside could, conceivably, allow a bit of wobble from the inside bearing, but I doubt there was any problems. Check the bearings for spalling (missing pieces of bearing or race surfaces) or overheating, which causes a blueish hue to the metal.
Putting the shims on the inside could, conceivably, allow a bit of wobble from the inside bearing, but I doubt there was any problems. Check the bearings for spalling (missing pieces of bearing or race surfaces) or overheating, which causes a blueish hue to the metal.