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Front springs and bushings....

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Threaded rod works well with a double nut. 3/8 as I recall as well. one of the few coarse threaded bolts on the entire car. A really deep socketand an impact wrench makes those puppies go on and off in a few minutes. Back off one bolt. inert threaded rod, tighten part way, remove 180 degrees out threaded rod goes in partway, now can remove other two bolts and finally vback threaded rod completely out. Reassembly is opposite of above or something like that. Once you get in there it will be obvious.
 
When you put it all back together and one wheel sticks out at really funny angles, trunion is in backwards. We've all done it.
 
God, I did it twice. Each side. Duh.
 
The only down side to Jack's method is that the caliper must come off and the tie rod end must be taken loose from the steering arm. You just have to choose your poison.
 
Springs are another issue. One's I got from VB I think it was several years ago, even though listed for a '68 were actually from a RBumpered Car. Two tries and finally ended up ordering BE Front springs. I had one of the few Off Road Spridgets in the world with those RB Springs
 
Post Installation, handling was indeed quite strange. When ordering ask question about colors on how spring is marked. They mean something.
 
BE springs should be 9.4 inchs long free measurement, 238 mm,
 
Bill Young, did you have to add any springs to the front of yours when you put the 2.8 in there? Just wondering, I could have spent a week talking to everyone about their cars and many times there was the car and not the person, or I wasn't sure who the car belonged to. So many different mods on cars.
 
He has stock springs with those twist-in supports.
 
Dunno?
 
So I look at Jim's spring photo, then I look at a chart from Moss. Hmmm. Moss says 948/1098 should be yellow paint and 9-5/8
1275 green paint and 10"
1500 blue paint and 10-1/4

Ain't jiving...... dang.

Now what?

Peter C.
 
jhorton3 said:
Barry, what springs did you go with?
Click to expand...
The standard ones from Moss, nothing fancy.
However, if I'd have known now, what I knew 2 days after I bought them, I'd have gotten the lowered.....
 
Barry the lowered ones are very stiff and lower than advertised. I have a set on my Midget and it is almost too low for a street car.
 
Trevor, I think you may know where my thinking was heading...
Anyway, I guess it's not a surface crack anymore....
That may be a little trickier to remove than I thought.
fb8f6ea41bad93eeb5acdea296d94f2c0_large.jpg
 
Should be easier to remove.
 
I can't remember exactly how I did my springs. I think I jacked it up and then took off the wheel and put a jack stand under the spindle, then let the jack pressure off so the spindle was resting on the jack stand and then removed the shock bolt at the top and then jacked it back up and slowly relieved the spring tension as it went up.
 
No difference in how you do it....jack under spring pan doesn't know the spring is broken!
 
That break, ie shorter spring, just makes the job easier.
 
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