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Front Shocks

zyrtecx

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Why would my Austin Healey 3000 B7J have metal plates under the front lever shocks?
The right side has two plates that run the length of the shock and the left side has only one plate on the inside is the shock that causes the shock to tilt outward.
Should I just remove these plates and bolt the shocks to the frame as they should be?
 
Why would my Austin Healey 3000 B7J have metal plates under the front lever shocks?
The right side has two plates that run the length of the shock and the left side has only one plate on the inside is the shock that causes the shock to tilt outward.
Should I just remove these plates and bolt the shocks to the frame as they should be?
Can you post photos?
 
One photo is the left and the other is the right after the shocks were removed…
 

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Maybe has something to do with front end alignment? I’ve owned the car since 1976, has been in a garage for 35 years and I’ve never had it aligned… maybe factory?
 
Has the car ever been in an accident , does the frame look to have any modifications or major repairs particularly on the front corners .
Only reason I can think of it being done was to somehow align/level the car to make it sit/look straight ?
 
Only reason I can think of it being done was to somehow align/level the car to make it sit/look straight.

Yeah me too-Healey Nut
 
As far as I know the vehicle has never been in a collision, the frame looks to be straight and I see no collision damage repair, there was some bondo in both of the rear quarter panels but no other damage… the entire front end and engine compartment, fire wall Is good… those clips under the shocks look a British part. I’m going to clean them up tomorrow and see it they have anu Stamping on them… all the previous owners of the vehicle are deceased, I have the title history of this vehicle and the statement or origin.
The only thing that I found when rebuilding the right side front end was that the bushing, lower link rear was gone and I think was throwing the right side out of alignment. The front wheels were not in line…
 
Forget to mention:

right side spacers under the shock were on the outer side

left side spacers under the shock were on the inner side

the shroud is removed at the present time and I have never had a problem with any body panels, doors have the proper spacing and open and close correctly…
 
As far as I know the vehicle has never been in a collision, the frame looks to be straight and I see no collision damage repair, there was some bondo in both of the rear quarter panels but no other damage… the entire front end and engine compartment, fire wall Is good… those clips under the shocks look a British part. I’m going to clean them up tomorrow and see it they have anu Stamping on them… all the previous owners of the vehicle are deceased, I have the title history of this vehicle and the statement or origin.
The only thing that I found when rebuilding the right side front end was that the bushing, lower link rear was gone and I think was throwing the right side out of alignment. The front wheels were not in line…
Why not contact the Registrar of the BJ Registry and see what, if any, info he has on it? He’ll need the vin number, etc.
 
I’m going to have the shocks rebuilt and I think that I’m going to remove the spacers and install the shocks the correct way but first I’m going to do done measurements if the frame and the shocks and see if everything match’s on both sides… guess that I’d a good place to start as any…
 
Home-brew alignment job (for whatever reason):


Our BN2 had excessive neg. camber when we got it, and the frame was straight. We installed the Kilmartin adjustable plates. My BJ8 has too much pos. camber for my tastes so I'll install movable plates under the mounting plates (someday).

Be sure to have your alignment checked after your changes; unfortunately, most shops will be baffled by a Healey suspension (you can only easily adjust toe anyway).
 
It appears someone has tried to make a change to the suspension geometry and wheel alignment, for whatever reason. I think those shims provide a poor base for the secure fastening of the shock to the frame so i would want to remove them. But the necessity of them can easily be ascertained by putting everything together roll the car unto level ground and measure camber at the least. Camber can be measured with enough accuracy by using a straight piece of steel against the wheel rim and a protractor against the steel to read the angle of the steel hence the angle of the wheel. The Healey camber angle is between 1/2* to 1* positive camber which is the wheel leaning out at the top. If the camber is not within those specs then something is wrong with the frame.
 
Or perhaps the shocks are replacements of the originals and are of a different dimension than stock--hence the shims.
Are there any markings on the shocks that would permit comparison?
 
The fact that they are "U" shaped suggests to me that they are shims slid into place with the shock bolts loosened, as others have already stated, to compensate for some alignment issue. It should be revealing to see how the car handles /tracks with the shims removed vs how it currently drives.
 
Back in the day, racers used shims on the 2 outside shock bolts to tilt the shock and eliminate some of the positive camber. But what I see in your photos is just bizarre.
 
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