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front end alignment
- Thread starter mmgwhite
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Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Hi Mat:
In section L of your Austin Healey 100/3000 Shop manual Fig 1 shows the cross rod used to set toe in. if y0u look carefully at that fig you will note there is a nut just behind the cross tube connector . Disconnecting the cross tube by releasing it's nut allows you to shorten or lengthen the cross tube by screwing the fitting in or out.. these fittings are located at each end of the cross tube.
This is discussed in section K.7 of the manual.
In section L of your Austin Healey 100/3000 Shop manual Fig 1 shows the cross rod used to set toe in. if y0u look carefully at that fig you will note there is a nut just behind the cross tube connector . Disconnecting the cross tube by releasing it's nut allows you to shorten or lengthen the cross tube by screwing the fitting in or out.. these fittings are located at each end of the cross tube.
This is discussed in section K.7 of the manual.
Thank you. Very helpful.
So, far, unable to budge the lock nut on either end. One of which is LH the other RH threads. Haven't figured out which is which yet.
Got em soaking in Kroil.
May just take off the Ball end set on both sides and remove the whole thing such that I can get at it.
Is that a viable option?
Thanks
Mat
So, far, unable to budge the lock nut on either end. One of which is LH the other RH threads. Haven't figured out which is which yet.
Got em soaking in Kroil.
May just take off the Ball end set on both sides and remove the whole thing such that I can get at it.
Is that a viable option?
Thanks
Mat
BJ8Healeys
Jedi Warrior
Offline
Mat, have you actually had the toe-in checked? If you are running radial tires, 0 deg. works best for me. The original spec is for 1/8" toe-in, but that's for the original bias-ply tires which have a higher rolling resistance than radials do.
A visual inspection of toe-in for a BJ8 can be misleading. When looked at head-on, the left and right front tires do not appear to be set at the same toe-in when they actually are.
Are you seeing abnormal wear on the front tires?
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
I found one that the threads didn't want to unscrew too; took a little more than soaking it to free this one up. Even with HALF the threads cut away, it was still holding on quite tight!
I guess I should've known I was going to be in for a time with it...
Both sides were milled off, and it still took an 18" pipe wrench to take the rod-end off.
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
Offline
May just take off the Ball end set on both sides and remove the whole thing such that I can get at it.
Is that a viable option?
Thanks
Mat
OH! Sure that's a good way to go.
But it is a down right shame that fella Randy didn't have no Kroil.
Works a treat in the Netherlands otta work great in Alaska too--:highly_amused:
Is that a viable option?
Thanks
Mat
OH! Sure that's a good way to go.
But it is a down right shame that fella Randy didn't have no Kroil.
Works a treat in the Netherlands otta work great in Alaska too--:highly_amused:
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In addition to what Steve says, you cannot change the toe on one wheel without changing the other. The toe is set by turning the center tube connecting the rod ends. turning it moves both wheels in the opposite direction to create toe-in or toe-out (or neutral). You cannot move one wheel while the other remains steady. Furthermore, you have to roll the car forward to set the suspension to check the toe. Also, it must be on the ground, not jacked up.
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
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Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
I always have some on the shelf, but it was no match for that rod end.
For the record: I always try the easy stuff first!
Sure, I get paid by the hour, but I stay booked up at least three (>3) months out all year 'round, so no need to drag my feet on any one car to keep the bills paid
Thanks to all
Got the darned thing off. Had to use a gear puller on the right hand side to get the ball end to drop off. Lo and behold, it was bent!
Thus the weird toe-out and shimmy I suppose.
And, I was wondering about re-set of toe in. I have radials so will go to zero. Hope I get the cross bar on right the first time so that they line up with each
other. Any other tips on re-assembly?
Mat
Got the darned thing off. Had to use a gear puller on the right hand side to get the ball end to drop off. Lo and behold, it was bent!
Thus the weird toe-out and shimmy I suppose.
And, I was wondering about re-set of toe in. I have radials so will go to zero. Hope I get the cross bar on right the first time so that they line up with each
other. Any other tips on re-assembly?
Mat
Randy Forbes
Yoda
Offline
Zero toe-in makes for lively steering__tried it once just prior to an autocross up in Shreveport, Louisiana (I drove there from Lafayette, LA). A tiny bit of toe-in, 1/32 to 1/16" inch (or somewhere between 0 & 1/8") will load the front suspension just that little bit to aid straightline stability.
With the toe set at zero__and true zero being hard to get repetitive results__the load on the steering will oscillate between toe-in/toe-out and make for a weary drive. Given the play in the Healey's suspension and steering components, you'd be hard pressed to get the same readings when checked after each of five successive trips around the block anyway.
If you do opt for zero, you'll want to make every effort to eliminate as much free play as possible in the steering box__quite literally, opening another can of worms (and peg... )
With the toe set at zero__and true zero being hard to get repetitive results__the load on the steering will oscillate between toe-in/toe-out and make for a weary drive. Given the play in the Healey's suspension and steering components, you'd be hard pressed to get the same readings when checked after each of five successive trips around the block anyway.
If you do opt for zero, you'll want to make every effort to eliminate as much free play as possible in the steering box__quite literally, opening another can of worms (and peg...
)