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Front cross member pads

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Guinn

Guinn

Jedi Warrior
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Does anyone know if the front cross member pads have a real function, or are they just there to aggravate MGB owners?

I am hearing a clunk in the front end at times, always when starting to accelerate. Could it be deteriorated pads?

Guinn
 
Oh, yeah - they have a purpose! Try running a street car without them...hard as a rock

& that could be your problem.
 
Thats what it sounded like to me before I had my crossmember pads replaced. Got a loud "clunk" everytime I hit a dip or a pothole.

Raise the front end & support the front end with jack stands under the frame not the crossmember. Once in the air my crossmember had about a 1/8” movement.
 
I had the same problem with my front end when I got my car. Front end felt floaty and made nice clunky sounds over pot holes. Poly pads in there now and I have a nice connected feel and no clunks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Thanks, All. She goes up on the stands today or tomorrow and I will check for movement. Bret, in what direction was the movement? How did you check?

Guinn
 
well Guinn, on my car the movement and the most audible clunking was primarily up and down. However, on closer inspection I noticed that there was some lateral/fore aft movement in the crossmember. When I put new poly pads in, I noticed the pads have a portion that's raised around the mounting bolt that serves to keep the bolt centered in the mounting holes on the cross member.

The up/down movement is easily identifyable. If you can't see the gap between the cross member and its mount point you at the very least be able to move it up and down. The nut that holds the cross member to the bolt won't get tight enough to prevent it (the cross member) from moving either, if the pads are too far worn that is.
 
Another way to check is to see if you can tighten the bolts holding the cross member to the frame rail...if the pads have worn out and/or cracked, you might be able to do so - but I wouldn't want to drive that way for a long time....you might be able to see if there's any change in condition though.
 
Yup like Tony & Rob said movement is up & down as well as some side to side movement but that’s not as noticeable as the up & down method. Also the threads of the bolts could be buggered up so you might want to order replacement hardware too just to be safe. Cheap insurance IMHO.
 
In spite of the near 90 degree weather, we put her on stands and tried to shift the cross member relative to the frame. Steady as a rock. I did find a loose bolt on the sway bar but that was not it. There is a slight play up and down when using a long pry bar under each wheel but this doesn't appear to be the problem.

Actually, the "clunk" happens at any speed when suddenly applying the brakes. We were going to take the rotor off and check for problems but could not figure out how to remove the hub-cap. No room to slip a sharp screwdriver between cap and hub. Any ideas? I don't want to bugger up something if there is something I am missing. As usual, any help is appreciated.

Guinn
 
How was the wishbone pivot? I've noticed the driveside front wishbone pivote on my car sometimes loosens itself a bit. Easy to tighten, but also easily over looked.
 
Do you have wire wheels? If not, just insert a thin screwdriver blade under the lip of the cap & hit it with a hammer while twisting...go all around cap that ay....if you have wires, its totally different & I'll walk you through it.
 
Tony, there isn't room to start even a knife blade! My neighbor - helper even ground a screwdriver to a knife edge and it wouldn't work. Cut himself, too. But we will persist. Yes, I do have steel wheels. Do the rotors come off by removing those bolts that are exposed when the wheel is off?

Rob, I will check the wishbone fasteners. I put them on so they are suspect LOL.

Thanks, guys. I will keep you posted, but will do nothing until Wednesday or later.

Guinn
 
If I understand your 1st and last post, the cluck occurs on acceleration AND braking. Do I have that right? A clunk on accel makes me wonder about u-joint issues. Before I replaced mine it would make a clang if I didn't shift just right.

I'm not sure why you want to remove the rotors, but to take them off, you'd remove the caliper, the small hub cap, the cotter pin and hub nut. The hub/rotor will then come off the spindle. You can separate the rotor from the hub w/ the 4 bolts you mention. I think the nuts face out and the bolt head in.

How are rest of the front suspension bushings? I had clunks on braking and banging on bumps. I rebuilt the complete front suspension and it feels like a new car now.

Good Luck. btw, we're almost neighbors. I'm just to the N in Kent.

Paul
 
If you can't get a screwdriver blade in it, try tapping the rounded edge sideways with a hammer to get it to 'tip' outwards a bit...then get the screwdriver in it.
 
Thanks, Tony. Will try that.

Paul, I live just off the Kent-BD road about 3 miles S of the Kent Kangley. Neighbors include a 23 Willis Knight roadster and an MGA. Go to Seattlepi.com/wheels and you will find 1978MG - Mine!

Suspension rebuilt a few months ago, Ujoint good, "upon further review" clunk seems to be just with braking. I will look for something loose, either in the caliper area or possibly in the wishbone (not likely but could be) today or tomorrow.

Guinn
 
Hmm, could very well be a loose caliper?
 
hmmm... what about the shocks? if those aren't firmly bolted to their perches, then in theory it would be possible for them to shift with the applied torque of braking. Then again, you'd probably have a lot of clunking while driving over bumps too.
 
The BEE goes over railroad crossings just like the Buick - almost.It really doesn't seem like a suspension problem of any sort. Just keep the ideas coming. I will check them all until I get it, simplest and cheapest first!

Guinn
 
What's loose in the trunk?

Exhaust pipe?

Rear tranny mount?
 
It shouldn't float across like an old Buick...&, if the pads have never been changed - its time! Whether that's the problem or not!
 
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