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Front cross member pads

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I meant as well as the Buick - not the same. It has the feel I want. A couple of local drivers have driven it and can't stop smiling! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Guinn
 
Guinn,

Hmm - Certainly wouldn't hurt to put some new xmember pads in. You probably already have, but give the calipers a close look. If the locking plates were installed when the calipers were off, I can't imagine they could come loose.

I typically look at the last thing I worked on for the source of a problem. (LOL)

When I rebuilt my ft suspension, the sway bar/A Arm nut was loose. This was also the side that had a dead shock.

I take it you can't replicate the problem w/ the car parked but pushing/bouncing etc.

I'm out of ideas.

fyi - We're between Renton and Kent in a subdivision just SE of Kentridge HS. If you see a gray '74 roadster w/ sabrinas bombing around, that's me.
 
Saw a grey 'B on the Kent -Black Diamond rd a few days ago. Saturday? If it was yours it passed within 3 blocks of home. My 78 B is Sun Yellow.

Waiting for cooler weather. Maybe tomorrow.

Guinn
 
Guinn - If it was mine, it's getting out more that I am. We were out of town for a few weeks and just got home late Sat evening.

Paul
 
[ QUOTE ]
It shouldn't float across like an old Buick...&, if the pads have never been changed - its time! Whether that's the problem or not!

[/ QUOTE ]

I've never done mine and I'm thinking I should. Anyone have a DIY? Does the steering rack need to come out?
 
The steering rack does not need to come out to change the cross member pads. It's probably one of the easier things to change on a B, IMO. A second hand might come in handy to help with the bolts, but it's not a difficult job. I did mine in a drive way. Just be sure to be careful of the brake lines. I did mine one side at a time and it was pretty easy.
 
Scott: if you don't have a Haynes or similar manual, you would do well to get one. Haynes lays it out quite well.

All: With the left wheel off, rotating the rotor caused a "clunk" with just a couple inches of rotation (maybe less). Either direction. I forced the pads off contact with the rotor and could not get a "clunk". Pushed and released the brake and got the "clunk" back. Problem solved! The pad is a bit loose and the rotor drags it a bit. Now the question is, how do I stop the dragging? Please don't tell me "a liberal spraying with WD40" (my wife's answer to all things mechanical). At least there is no serious problem.

Paul, I hear that these LBC's have a mind of their own. Better check the lock on the garage door.

Thanks again for all the advice, guys. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif Guinn
 
[ QUOTE ]
Scott: if you don't have a Haynes or similar manual, you would do well to get one. Haynes lays it out quite well.


[/ QUOTE ]

Guinn-

Thanks; I'm actually embarrased to say that I collect MGB manuals. I might have just about every MGB book or shop manual ever created /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif (I bought a truck bed worth of B/L dealer binders at Carlisle a few years ago: parts books, collision books, shop repair times, shop manuals, TSB volumes, fiche, Bentley, Haynes, Porter, Burgess, Lucas, Twist ...). Duh, I guess maybe I should open one of them to see what's actually involved!
 
The hardest thing is actually getting to the front x-member bolts - I did it as part of a full restoration, so had everything apart, but I remember even the bump stops got in the way of the torque wrench!
 
Guinn, My 72 made a clunk before I put in new front brake pads. One of the old pads had a slight fore and aft movement when hitting the brakes. The new pads solved the problem. Just another 2 cents worth. PJ /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
PJ, see my 6-28 note. Same problem as you had. Got some pad stickum and the problem is solved. My pads are almost new but were installed by the PO. Thanks for backing up my thoughts on this.

Guinn
 
Usually it is THE classic indicator, yup. Could be a loose caliper too, but my bet would be the kingpins. 2p-worth.
 
congrats on getting the clunk to go away! Heck of a birthday gift to yourself there Guinn. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
But now the question: how are your suspension beam pads?
 
Can't force any movement in any direction, Tony. The front end seems very solid, even over the potholes so I think I'll put off the pads for awhile. But I do need new brake hoses all around. I checked the brakes while I was at it. 3/16 brake pad thickness and lots of brake lining thickness too. See my Email to you re: hoses.

Guinn
 
The can is out in the shop and my damaged knee limits my walking for now. It is a commercial aerosol, rubbery compound recommended by a reputable brake specialist. His cursory check of the brakes confirmed my diagnosis. I noticed he had 2 cans of the stuff on his work bench.

I am a firm believer in "don't mess with it if it isn't broken - unless it is a safety issue" in which case get an expert opinion.

Guinn
 
Guinn - Got your PM - am working prices right now.
 
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