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Fresh air 4" hose installation tricks
- Thread starter Michael Oritt
- Start date
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RAC68
Darth Vader
Offline
Hi All,
I'm still waiting for the relays to implement an update rebuild of my original 54 year old Flasher Relay Box (used on pre-BJ8-P2 models) and want to make it easier to remove the forward section of the Cold Air Duct if anything fails in the future (assuming everything will work initially). I am looking at a way to cut the tube around the fender brace and to install a permanent joining section within the forward tube. My idea is to allow sufficient space at the rear function for this inserted section be slide back to clear the front vent control. This would (hopefully) allow the front tube to be slid back sufficiently to clear the vent flange and be extracted through the engine compartment and provide clear access to the Flasher Relay Box.
Any suggestions?
Ray(64BJ8P1)
I'm still waiting for the relays to implement an update rebuild of my original 54 year old Flasher Relay Box (used on pre-BJ8-P2 models) and want to make it easier to remove the forward section of the Cold Air Duct if anything fails in the future (assuming everything will work initially). I am looking at a way to cut the tube around the fender brace and to install a permanent joining section within the forward tube. My idea is to allow sufficient space at the rear function for this inserted section be slide back to clear the front vent control. This would (hopefully) allow the front tube to be slid back sufficiently to clear the vent flange and be extracted through the engine compartment and provide clear access to the Flasher Relay Box.
Any suggestions?
Ray(64BJ8P1)
Offline
Ray,
The other day I advocated installing rivet nuts in the upper 2 holes for the relay box while leaving the lower one (the only one that shows) as-is. If you did this you wouldn't have to mess with the fresh air hose at all. With my second brake reservoir and bilge blower, I may have more stuff crowded around my flasher relay than your setup, yet I had the box out the other day without moving the hose.
The other day I advocated installing rivet nuts in the upper 2 holes for the relay box while leaving the lower one (the only one that shows) as-is. If you did this you wouldn't have to mess with the fresh air hose at all. With my second brake reservoir and bilge blower, I may have more stuff crowded around my flasher relay than your setup, yet I had the box out the other day without moving the hose.
RAC68
Darth Vader
Offline
Steve,
Yes, I will be installing the rivet nuts when they arrive. And yes, I finally got my original Flasher Relay to work.
I must say, I was surprised the Flasher Relay was able to be brought to function after all these years and attests to its design and heft of its implementation. However, having so much difficulty getting this 54 year old unit to function properly, I have little confidence it will stay working and feel more confident the more modern rebuild will perform more error free ,,, that is if Heat and vibration doesn't kill the relays.
My reasoning for dealing with the duct in 2 pieces is to allow as much access to the relay box as possible. Even with the access provided with the duct removed, I find it difficult removing and reinstalling the box. Add the facts that the rebuild may require more then one installation and removal, and that more access will mean a quicker installation and be better for my back when bending over the fender. I will be fitting the duct and if all goes well, determine whether to cut or not cut the duct.
Ray(64BJ8P1)
Yes, I will be installing the rivet nuts when they arrive. And yes, I finally got my original Flasher Relay to work.
I must say, I was surprised the Flasher Relay was able to be brought to function after all these years and attests to its design and heft of its implementation. However, having so much difficulty getting this 54 year old unit to function properly, I have little confidence it will stay working and feel more confident the more modern rebuild will perform more error free ,,, that is if Heat and vibration doesn't kill the relays.
My reasoning for dealing with the duct in 2 pieces is to allow as much access to the relay box as possible. Even with the access provided with the duct removed, I find it difficult removing and reinstalling the box. Add the facts that the rebuild may require more then one installation and removal, and that more access will mean a quicker installation and be better for my back when bending over the fender. I will be fitting the duct and if all goes well, determine whether to cut or not cut the duct.
Ray(64BJ8P1)