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Not too bad. I powered the car and and when i pressed start the fuses blew. Ill have to chase that down. We tried rocking it in gear, but apparently it doesnt go into gear , and its impossible to push the clutch pedal down. So i'm taking the front apron off and putting it on my kwik lift. Where do i put the impact wrench if i want to see if itll turn over?
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Free up my engine
- Thread starter aaronf30
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Not too bad. I powered the car and and when i pressed start the fuses blew. Ill have to chase that down. We tried rocking it in gear, but apparently it doesnt go into gear , and its impossible to push the clutch pedal down. So i'm taking the front apron off and putting it on my kwik lift. Where do i put the impact wrench if i want to see if itll turn over?
CJD
Yoda
Offline
If it doesn't turn easily, not a good idea to force anything. From what I am reading, the tranny is stuck, the clutch is stuck, and the engine is too stuck to turn.
That may be a sign it's not going to be an easy one. My current TR2 project sat in a back yard for 24 years. The tranny was stuck, but the engine still turned over easily (by accident as I removed the flywheel bolts), without any oil in the cylinders at all. Yours sounds like it may be worse.
Please do not put an impact wrench on it. Use a long breaker bar, but do not force it if it is frozen.
That may be a sign it's not going to be an easy one. My current TR2 project sat in a back yard for 24 years. The tranny was stuck, but the engine still turned over easily (by accident as I removed the flywheel bolts), without any oil in the cylinders at all. Yours sounds like it may be worse.
Please do not put an impact wrench on it. Use a long breaker bar, but do not force it if it is frozen.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Yup, that slave will probably have to be replaced. Doesn't show well in your photo, but I think you will find some serious corrosion inside the boot. Pushrod looks like it is toast, too.
Those caged nuts on the apron can be a real challenge. Squirt everything with PB Blaster if you haven't already, then in most cases you can grab the cage with something like these to crush the cage against the nut:
Once the bolt moves a little in the nut, wiggle it back and forth to break off the rust, turn out a bit farther and repeat.
If all else fails, grind the heads off the bolts so you can get the apron off and replace the caged nuts. The usual suspects will sell you new nuts and cages; or MMC has what they call "Easy Align Weld Nuts" that have somewhat stronger cages.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3190
Those caged nuts on the apron can be a real challenge. Squirt everything with PB Blaster if you haven't already, then in most cases you can grab the cage with something like these to crush the cage against the nut:
Once the bolt moves a little in the nut, wiggle it back and forth to break off the rust, turn out a bit farther and repeat.
If all else fails, grind the heads off the bolts so you can get the apron off and replace the caged nuts. The usual suspects will sell you new nuts and cages; or MMC has what they call "Easy Align Weld Nuts" that have somewhat stronger cages.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3190
If you know someone that has an automatic tranny shop, they will probably give you the 4 gallons of old fluid it would take to fill the engine to the top of the cylinders. Let that set for week and drain it out. Point being it does not matter too much what the lubricant is, I actually like ATFfor loosing things up.
Tim Tucker
Jedi Trainee
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I don't see how running a drill CCW on the oil pump shaft can be anything but good. Lets the life blood of an engine flow without turning the engine. I would say go for it. IMO. Tim
Psevins
Freshman Member
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i had good luck cutting them off with my dremel and a cutting disk. This doesnt work on all of them due to various angles and sometimes takes a ton of disks (use eye protection for sure). When space allows I used my angle grinder. It would be awesome if those oscilating saws had blades thatwould cut through them.
When I bought my rusty 76 TR6 in 1990, the motor was froze up. I tried most of the above to no avail. Finally, I pulled the head and found the #6 piston had taken most of the abuse of water entering the intake through the carbs and running down hill to #6. With the head off, I was able to soak, tap, and ultimately pound with a huge hammer and a block of wood, still to no avail. Finally, I rigged up a breaker bar to the front crankshaft bolt with a 6 FOOT piece of pipe for a cheater and pounded it with a 10 pound splitting maul. This is the truth! No BS or false memories here. The piston finally moved about 1/64th of an inch. Once it moved at all, I knew I was home free. Upon rebuilding, (I was a driveability tech at a Chrysler dealership at the time) the old timer heavy tech told me to clean up the bore with a glaze breaker, put new rings on and "forget it". Having no money and a huge project on my hands, I took his advice. I drove that car for 16 years and about 50,000 miles. Never a problem, other than 2 sets of crankshaft thrust washers. I always thought the crankshaft would break in two someday, but it never did.