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Folded Carb Coupling

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This whole setup is being to aggravate me a bit. I have spent way to much time aligning carbs and intakes to make this work. I can just imagine a person with less knowledge, tools, time or patience trying to get this to work properly.

I just tried resetting everything again in the cold mode and ran it until warm and saw no issues, except that on occasion, the idle will wander up about 150 rpms and then will drop.

I'll let it cool down completely for the afternoon and try it again after I get home tonight and see how it reacts. Hopefully, all will be well and I'll go down to Erik's and use his sniffer to tweak in the mixtures, just to be sure.

As far as the spring, on the occasion that I find the idle up a hair, I can push the linkage back ever so slightly and it drops back to the normal setting, so it's not constant, but an erratic hangup that the on carb throttle returns and the factory style spring on the lever, will not override.
 
Gordo,

I apologize. I did not intend to hijack your thread with my stupid carb issues.

But if it helps, the folded couplers appear to be better in my case. These are not the stock units, but are a stiffer heavy duty version supplied by Jeff Palya. If I continue to have issues, which I hope I don't, I'll order a set of stock couplers from TRF and try those.
 
I think that this sticking issue is finally over. Between the Ratco cable setup, the folded couplers and another complete carb realignment, all seems to be fine through two hot and cold cycles.

So my answer (finally!!!) is stay with the flexibles.
 
Not quite. New post to follow on rotor issue.

You and Dale are right, it never ends.
 
Paul,

No apology needed! This thread has become very informative to me and appreciate you keeping us/me posted on the progress you have made on the folded couplers.

I've elected to give up on solid coupling based on your results and get a pair of heavy couplers instead.

Thanks, Gordo
 
Heavy couplers are too stiff. I went back with the stock, more springy blued steel couplers.
 
I spread my HD couplers apart twice to get them to work, because of what Bill says. They are almost as stiff as the solid couplers. If I get any future binds, they will go and stock will come in.
 
I know this will read as some really hokey, shade tree, repairing, but I had a coupling break several decades back and did a 'temporary' repair with a bit of heavy duty fuel line and clamps. It stayed that way for about 2 years until I was shamed into 'fixing' it right. Makes me wonder if you could eliminate sticking/alignment problems with the right type flexible connector. Of course it would be a more difficult installation with three carbs.
Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107
 
Tom, you don't know how close I was to trying that idea of yours. I did that once as an emergency repair to an old Toyota pickup 40 years ago.

I'm glad now that I stuck it out, but I had no deadline to meet. When I got sick of it, I turned out the lights and read a book or came here for sympathy.

Besides if I ever posted a picture of that as my fix, Bill, Shawn and Dale would have laughed me off the forum.
 
I have been reading this thread with interest as I am also having a binding problem with my triple Z-S set-up. I too have installed the RATCO throttle cable as I couldn't get full throttle opening with the stock linkeage. I have had to jury-rig an extra spring to get the center carb to return to idle when the engine is warmed up. Although the problem persists I feel better knowing that this is a common problem rather than a monster of my own creation. For now it seems that getting the carbs in alignment is the only fix and I will pursue that course of action. In the meantime if anybody finds a simpler solution please pipe-in.
Mike Crane '71 TR6
 
Mike,

The simplest solution will be the stock couplers and the right alignment of the intakes and the carbs. You do have to find a compromise between the hot and cold, as far as the couplers go, because the carbs do move a fraction between temperature ranges. I do not have any extra springs on mine and they work just fine as is, but that is after hours of toying with them to get it just right.

Also, make sure that the bushings in the firewall for the pedal shaft are not worn and binding in any way.

Good luck...
 
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