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Fixing Things

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Tried the wheel method and that worked out great! Painted the mark this time with some gloss white modeler's paint. Discovered I was really off. At TDC rotor is pointing at 11:45! I had a lot of difficulty fitting the drive dog gear back in last time. Now I realize I didn't do it right at all.

Since I've got the distributor out I've got a dumb question. What order bottom to top (including nylon washers) should the low tension wire and condenser be on the points post? Should it be plate, washer,condenser,points spring, low tension wire, washer, nut?
 
This may sound a bit vague, but: the wires (both) should NOT touch the post (ground) and be isolated to touching only the "arm" of the points. You cannot imagine the number of cars I've seen come into the shop after someone tried a DIY "tune-up" and grounded the supply side inadvertently.
 
Just curious, what is the diameter of that crank pulley bolt? It's a big 'un, I know that.
 
I just changed breaker points and condenser and used an 11/16" wrench on the generator pulley. Worked like a charm even with the spark plugs in place. And my engine has about 180psi compression on all cylinders.

Teamed with the youtube static timing video I learned another piece of info that should have been a nobrainer.. Keep tension on the distributor cam in a clockwise direction since it turns counterclockwise when running.

It was MUCH easier to turn the engine with a wrench where I could watch the distributor at the same time than blipping the engine or pushing the car.
 
SHE RUNS! With the engine finally at TDC I put the drive dog back in. I put a dab of that white paint to indicate which side was top on the dog. Inserted in with the slot horizontal and she immediately rotated about 25 degrees or so pointing to #1 piston. Refitted the breaker arm, points and condenser, installed the distributor. It took moving the distributor to where the vacuum advance unit is pointed at 12 o'clock but she cranks over.

Fixed one oil leak only to have another. This time it's the bolt that holds the oil supply line going to the oil filter mount. It's leaking all around the bolt. I've got a copper washer under there. Any suggestions on how to get the blood to stop flowing there?
 
Think there should be a copper washer both top and bottom of the banjo fitting, against the block and under the bolt as well.
 
I put a smaller diameter and thicker copper washer on. The one I had was thin, a bit too large on the inside of the washer, and had a nick in it. Allowed oil to spew out around it.

I took her out for a test drive through part of the neighborhood. She's idling OK, but I think I need to work a bit more with the timing.

Pulled out the new foam air filters to trial fit them and discovered the screws they sent won't fit my carbs. I've got to find some coarse threaded bolts to fit in there.
 
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