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Fixing Things

jhorton3

Jedi Warrior
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Finally have time this weekend to work on Midgie. Fixed one of the major oil leaks. For some reason the braided oil pressure hose developed a leak on the block side connection. Looked like I'd cut a main artery! With replacement not a drop leaked.

Tomorrow I plan on working to get the static timing back. Not looking forward to it as I'll have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up so I can get a socket on the damper pulley bolt. I'll probably be posting quite a bit tomorrow asking plenty of questions.
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
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Whoa!! It's not necessary to jack anything up to turn the engine over by hand.
Pull the plugs, chock the wheels or apply the handbrake, gearbox in neutral.

Apply pessure on the alternator belt, put a wrench on the alternator pulley nut and turn to your hearts content. Much easier. Someone will suggest pushing the car, or rocking it while in gear, but my method is easier, and it's much more precise.

While you're there, it would be the ideal time to adjust the valves, too.
Jeff
 

asoupley

Jedi Hopeful
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That's a good tip Jeff... I usually do the "push the car method". Maybe I'll try this one next time

Thanks
Tony
 

Baz

Yoda
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Bugeye58 said:
Whoa!! It's not necessary to jack anything up to turn the engine over by hand.
I've been jacking up one rear wheel in 4th and turning the wheel. Your suggestion sounds a lot easier Jeff.
 
OP
jhorton3

jhorton3

Jedi Warrior
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Plugs have been pulled, I've tried getting the alternator belt as tight as I can possibly muster, but the alternator pulley method will not turn the engine at all. Just slips under the belt.

In regards to putting the car in 4th and turning a rear wheel, do you keep one wheel on the ground? If so which wheel do you turn?

Last time I tried this the only way to get TDC was unbolting the motor mounts from the frame and putting a floor jack under the engine. Lifted it up enough to where I could put the large socket on the damper bolt and a breaker bar to turn the engine.

Might try the wheel approach tomorrow, but have a suspicion the jack will find it's way to the front and under the engine.
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Just outa curiosity....how much compression has that thing got?
 
OP
jhorton3

jhorton3

Jedi Warrior
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It's been a while since I did a compression test, but I think all 4 were around or over 120.
 

Luke_Healey

Jedi Trainee
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Thanks for the tip. I'd been eyeballing the crank nut thinking "what kind of modified wrench am I going to have to make to turn that?

We pushed or pulled the car to get the distributor to a high point to set point gap on my first Sprite.
 

Baz

Yoda
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Just jack up one rear wheel, doesn't matter which, pop it in 4th, then turn the jacked up wheel in the direction of forward travel with the other wheel on the deck. That'll turn it over.
Chock the front wheels because you'll want the handbrake off.
 

Bugeye58

Yoda
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I think I'd be looking at that alternator belt for glazing. I've never failed with this method, even with a fresh, tight engine. Are you pressing on the belt with one hand, or trying to tighten the adjustment to get it tight enough? I've always just pushed down on the belt.
Jeff
 
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jhorton3

jhorton3

Jedi Warrior
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New belt. Tried both ways of pressing on the belt and taking a pry bar to take what slack I can get out of it, but pulley still slips underneath.
 

DrEntropy

Great Pumpkin
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I've ALWAYS used Jeff's method. Should be able to turn ANY engine by hand this way with the plugs out. Tension the trailing side of the belt with one hand and it shouuld grab easily. If it's so tight you can't turn it there's "somethin' goin' on" more serious than just timing. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif
 
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jhorton3

jhorton3

Jedi Warrior
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I've tried the bump start method with a remote starter switch. The problem is I always overshoot, so I want to have a bit more control to get to TDC.
 

tony barnhill

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If it's so tight you can't turn it here's "somethin' goin' on" more serious than just timing.[/QUOTE]

Guess my little tongue-in-cheek question wasn't pointed enough (I realized the'd removed the plugs)....if the belt slips, either the wrong belt is on the pulley (i.e., glazed, incorrect width, etc) or the pulley is worn something awful (& it that wouldn't charge is correct), or there's something wrong inside the engine.....if the belt doesn't work, I'm wondering if turning a wheel will.

Bumping the starter has always worked for me up to the last little bit then the belt trick brings it on over.
 

bugimike

Yoda
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tony barnhill said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]If it's so tight you can't turn it here's "somethin' goin' on" more serious than just timing.


Bumping the starter has always worked for me up to the last little bit then the belt trick brings it on over. [/QUOTE]

That is the way I have always done it too, w/o any problems!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
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