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Extra cooling idea

Kim - if its a temporary thing to get through the driving season & it doesn't become a permanent bandaid - its your car, go for it!

But, during the winter - were it my car - I'd go through the entire cooling system & refresh everything....the little car should keep itself cool regardless of the outside temperature - just like it was designed!
 
Yeah, that is the plan Tony. I just know it will take a while and I will go through everything this winter. Does anyone know what degree thermostat was supposed to be in there original? I can't recal what was in mine or if I tested it in a pot on the stove. Could be that it is not opening enough. What really gets me is that how the temperature starts out fine on the highway and then slowly creeps up. You would think there would be plenty of airflow going down the highway even with no fan at all. I could see it heating up at an idle after a hard run when all that heat catches up and the fan is not going that fast and the car is not moving. I will get to the bottom of this one. Meanwhile will try the temp fix because it seems like cutting the heater on helps a lot but I don't want my feet to cook. Also, would appreciate any more info on the waterpump size thing. Are there different size impeller pumps through the years??
 
180 Degrees is optiomal.
 
1) I'm not convinced that you'll get enough airflow down there to make a lot of difference.

2) I wouldn't want a rad down there where it could get hit by stones thrown up from the wheels and therefore let all the water go - that would make it overheat!

I think that I would start with
- make sure as much air as poss goes through the radiator - fill any gaps at the sides or above with ali sheet for instance.
- is it a 2 or 4 blade fan? - if 2 make it 4 or take it off and put an electric fan in
- put water wetter in the cooling system
-put an air scoop to pick up air from under the 'chin' of the bonnet - i know this has been done sucesfully with middle sized Healeys (3000s etc) and they do suffer form overheating!

As a longer term thing look at a bigger capacity and/or ali radiator.

John
 
As I recall there is a difference in water pumps and impeller sizes / wear in the vanes could also be an issue. Pumping rusty / chunky water through a water pump, as done by a P.O. could definitely weat out the vanes. Hey try changing out hte waterpump first and foremost. That and flush the radiator. Spridgets don't necessarily always overheat. Usually some external condition / wear causes the issue. You might not have the correct water pump for your engine or it could be worn. Try simple stuff first before reengineering
 
Down here with 95 or so heat and lots of humidity Miss Agatha has never gone over 180 and that includes the Loto as well come to think of it.

Just goes to show what clean inards will do for you.
 
I put a brand new pump on it when I rebuild the motor. I never realized there was a difference in them. Does anyone have any info on this deal about too much circulation and running hot? I know that my pully is not stock the stock pulley was plastic and broke years ago and I am not sure if the replacement is the same size. I kept on with the project. The heater core I am using is out of a subaru (because I have one laying around) and I also used the heater control valve out of the subaru, so I can cut this extra cooling off or on or shut off if I should develope a leak down there. I bought the copper line and have them bent and installed and the valve too. Started making a frame for the heater core and ran out of energy yesterday. Hopefully get it put in this evening and then Tuesday hook up all the heater hose Tees and test it out. I think it will help. I have had sevral cars the would overheat and cutting the heater on would act as an extra radiator and help cool it back down. This core is totally open so there should be plenty of air flow under there at speed, more than the heater fan I hope, plus 8 feet of copper line through the tunnel which should have air flowing through it as well.
 
Everything installed underneath. Had to make a few parts and took some time. Got to hook hoses up tomorrow under the hood and test it out. Hopefully this with help at least till fall when I take it off the road and put my Sportage back on the insurance. Then in the winter I will work on it. Already got an electric fan coming that I bought off of Ebay. Will probably install that one right away as time allows.
 
So, how long has it taken to put htis modification under the car - in lost driving hours?
 
tony barnhill said:
So, how long has it taken to put htis modification under the car - in lost driving hours?
I don't know Tony, I still go the top down on the car in the basement/garage and its poured the rain the last couple evenings so I might not have driven it anyways. It might all be a big waste but its experimentation and interesting to me.
 
I remember back when I was setting up my carb jetting that tuning it with just a little to advance on the timming really warmed it up and not much performance differance just a thought. hate to see you go through to many motions if you dont need to .
Too many miles not enough time.....
 
Well, its done. Tested it out but it is only 71 degrees outside and I ran it hard and could not get it even up to the N mark. the hotest it got was when I shut it off in the basement. Still just over the N. Time will tell. Here are some pics of the final thing. I could put my hand on it and feel it was scalding hot and at speed must have been removing a lot of heat. I could see the needle drop pretty quick after pulling away from a light.
MVC-419F.jpg
MVC-420F.jpg
MVC-421F.jpg
MVC-415F.jpg
MVC-416F.jpg
 
Looks like nice work.
 
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