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Ever have one of those days...

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scubabatdan

scubabatdan

Jedi Trainee
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Well the engine is back in and the main and rod end bearing are holding good pressure. BUT...
The clutch fails to work, bleeding was perfect nice and strong. And then I read in the haynes manual that the clutch disk is marked "Flywheel" and if put on wrong it will not work.
Yep I put it on backwards! Looked in inspection hole everthing is as it should be but the clutch disk is in backwards.
So I have to pull the engine and tranny again (crying in my beer) Well I am going to wait and order a new clutch disk and bearing and do it all at once, yes the right way :smile:

But I am happy to report that the second bleeding of the clutch was faster than the first with my Dial Soap Valve, No air, pummping to fast for it to stay in the lines!! woohooo :smile:

Miller Time!
Dan

Update:
Clutch and bearing will be here tommarow! woohooo
 
I hate when that happens....



mark
 
Ouch!

Be aware that not all of the clutch discs are marked at all. My new clutch from Moss didn't have any markings, but I think I got it in the proper way -- I asked here first.
 
That is where I ordered mine from, what it the secret to the right direction> is the slpine adapter longer on one side? Or is there another indication besides a marking?
Thanks
Dan
 
Thanks,
Will let you know when I have mine in and if it works :smile:
Dan
 
FWIW I've dismantled and reassembled virtually everything at least three times - (I've actually done 3 restorations at the same time :smile: )

You get real quick the second and third time
 
Thanks, encouraging I think :smile: LOL
Actually I have cut my first time down from 4 hours on the first pull to 2:45, so tomorrow it should only take 1:30 LOL yeah right...
I will keep at it and use this as a learning experience!
Thanks
Dan
 
let us know
 
You know you really do not have to pull the tranny. I never pulled the tranny to replace a clutch. The engine goes in and out pretty easily, so why pull both?
 
Mike_in_CA said:
You know you really do not have to pull the tranny. I never pulled the tranny to replace a clutch. The engine goes in and out pretty easily, so why pull both?
Click to expand...
Because it's a pain to unbolt the gearbox from the motor "in situ", they say. I've only pulled mine once and that was to swap trannies so I pulled both at the same time. I should have jacked up the front a bit before I started to help get the "tilt" right, it wasn't too bad.
 
Mike_in_CA said:
You know you really do not have to pull the tranny. I never pulled the tranny to replace a clutch. The engine goes in and out pretty easily, so why pull both?
Click to expand...

Hmmm...very interesting. I've only done this once with my bugeye, and I pulled both engine and transmission together, just because that's what everyone said to do. Interestingly, the instructions in the shop manual describe pulling the engine alone, so it must be at least possible. The bolts on the bellhousing are reasonably accessible, I think.

I'd expect that the larger problem would be putting it back: getting the transmission shaft aligned with the clutch plate and worrying the front in around the mounts at the same time. Might be a bit of a puzzle.

Was that a problem? Or am I making too much of it?
 
Well Heck I like puzzles, so I think I will try pulling the engine out only. Do I need to jack up the tranny a bit to make the angle of retreat and attack more condusive? Will see how this goes. At least I wont have to re bleed the slave cylinder on the tranny, or line up the drive shaft. Will report back on progress.
Dan
 
We pulled just the engine (948 cc; stock smooth case transmission; Bug-Eye) a couple of weeks back and I took the transmission out later.
Used a proper engine hoist with a chain wrapped around the block; no real problems undoing the various and sundry bolts and such between the trans and the engine. I did put a jack under the transmission to provide a bit of control there, but can't remember any issues or problems.
Decades ago I also reinstalled the engine with the trans in place (clutch change; used a spare input shaft to line up the plate) and remember having a bit of struggle to get the input shaft to line up properly, but nothing really major.
Dan - you're going to be the resident expert on this, if you aren't already.
Doug
 
I have pulled many engines and trannies, but never in a MG, I must say the only headache to pulling the eng/tranny combo is the constant tilt/pull back, tilt/pull back and then the rebleeding of the clutch and instalation of the driveshaft going back in, little space for big hands!
I think I can get a faster turn around with out pulling the tranny.
Thanks for the advice.
Dan
 
Biggest challenge is getting the splines on the input shaft to mesh and slide through the clutch. Also, don't put a big glob of grease in the pilot bushing. It'll create a hydraulic lock when the input shaft enters it and the engine won't seat completely against the bellhousing. I found that one out the hard way.
 
Thanks Jim,
Happy to report the engine in on the hoist and the new clutch plate is installed and pressure plate, also the new throw out bearing is also installed. Now the hard part lining it back up. Was easier than I thought it would be.

I hooked up the hoist, apply a little lifting pressure to the engine and disconnected all the mounting bolts, except the two bottom engine to transmission bolts. I then lifted the engine and it tilted the tranny until it contacted the bottom of the battery tray. I then put a second jack under the tranny to hold it in place and removed the last to bolts. The engine shifted forward about a 1/4". I then tilted the engine with my threaded tilt lifting adapter and began jacking and tilting and moving forward. Actually it was pretty fast since I started at 9:30 and was finished by 11:15. I will reverse the procedure tomorrow and take some pics.
Right now I need sleep!

Thanks everyone!
Dan
 
Ran home at lunch today, and it took me 15 minutes to install the engine! The trick I figured out was tilting the rear about 25° and move it down and back while rotating to about 3°. Once the spline lined up it slide 1/4" from home and I had to play with the tilt and height to line up the alignment dowels on the engine. Once those lined up it slide home and a quick bolt installed on either side held it in place. Then remove the jack from under the tranny, and lower it onto the engine mounts. Yep only 15 minutes! Woohooo
Should have her pieced back together tonight!
Of course it is suppose to rain all weekend :frown:
I will find a break inbetween rain showers!
Dan
 
Man, that is quick! Even with rain coming hopefully you'll be able to get her back together and at least perform a 10 foot test.
 
scubabatdan said:
Ran home at lunch today, and it took me 15 minutes to install the engine!
Dan
Click to expand...

:bow: you are my hero - congrats!!!!
 
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