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Engine Swap question

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For the cost of a custom radiator you could find a good 1275 and just drop it in.
If you enjoy challenges then the 1500 would be interesting but would not be my choice.
BillM
-actually for the cost of a custom radiator you could probably get your 1098 totally rebuilt and have a really nice engine-
 
I'll weigh in with a recommendation to rebuild the 1098, if its a big crank one. Unless you're going to be a boy racer, or drive it like you stole it, the high low end torque, combined with it's unmatched smoothness makes the 1098 an ideal motivator for basic "around town" or short "blasts". Throw in a 5 speed and 3.9 rear end and you've got a small GT Tourer.

I would be concerned that the weight of the 1500 might upset the balance a MK I Sprite, making it nose heavy and thus loosing the razor sharp handling that we all enjoy.

My .02¢
 
I'd rebuild the 1098 also - especially if it has big mains.....otherwise, I'd look for a 1275...but, I'd never put the time & effort into a 1500.
 
A buddy did the Datsun swap...but his started as a 1400cc engine with the fat gearbox. He had to weld up a new tranny tunnel. That engine dropped a valve seat and trashed a piston...he sourced a replacement 1500 and runs a DCOE 40 on it. The car is quick...very quick. Goes like stink. But to my ear it just doesn't sound British...
 
First let me say that I don't endorse that swap, but if you must then it's the least intrusive on the car than any other I can think of besides installing a 1275. The only structural mod I know of is the removal of the center section of the small crossmember that the steering rack mounts on. The factory cut this and angled the two ends downwards at about a 45 degree angle and welded them into the main crossmember. The rest of the motor mounts and transmission mounts will bolt in as far as I can tell. There are inspection holes and access panels in the trans tunnel that are different for the 1500 and would need to be cut in the tunnel as well. Consider that you'll need a new radiator, new exhaust system, reroute the ingnition wiring to the opposite side, reroute the wiring for the generator to the off side and modify for an alternator. No need realy for the Painless wiring kit though, the stock wiring should work with only minimal changes up front. All in all quite a bit of work for very little if any improvement in power at least in stock form. These engines were low compression emissions engines and really down on power for their size. You'd need to rebuild the unit with higher compression pistons and probably install a bit more cam to even get back even with a good running 1098.
If you really want a "hot rod" Spridget then consider some engine that will give you a real kick in the seat. There are several that have been swapped into that chassis with minimal cutting, take a look at the ones shown on the British V8 Newsletter photo files for a start.
 
If Bill is correct (which I'm SURE he is), that's WAAAAY too much work to put in a 1500, not to mention I'd hate to see you hack up the car.

I'm all about cheap and back on the road quickly, BUT ......If your gonna hack it up, use another motor that'll make it worth while.

+1 again for rebuild 1098.

You're just one click away from ordering the rebuild parts you need to be back on the road. You can't get any quicker than that!!!!
 
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