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Engine pulling this week

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I went to a Harbor Freight outlet near me last Tuesday, prepared to shell out $160 for a foldable hoist. Decided to get their tilt thing too, $35 or so. Rang up for $136 total, hmmmm, come to find out it was on sale for $99. Cool.
I don't know about renting, since for only a bit more you don't have to watch your time and you can leave the engine on the hoist for a while. Two $30 rental fees is a long way to one $99 purchase. Mine's been hanging all week while I stripped the block and painted it (early Ford Blue). Only complaint is the boom is barely long enough and I don't like their tilt thing. A pain to crank it (have since greased the screw) and it didn't seem to tilt all that much anyway. Going back in, I'm going to start out with the engine and gearbox hanging very tilted and level it out as I drop it. When coming out, despite the tilter, I had to essentially drag the gearbox remote along and force it down and out anyway.
 
u cant beat $99!
if ur like me,
u will need the motor
out a few days to clean
and paint everthing.
itd be a shame not to
paint it while its out....
wouldnt it? :wink: .......

i used the slightly larger
2? ton lift.....
jacked the car up in the
front center so the lift
would go behind the wheels....z
 
I'm too embarassed to say how often I've had to do this. But this is what the experience taught me. Without a leveler the tranny remote wants to scrape all the way up on the underside of the battery shelf on pulling. On reinstalling it's even worse and I needed to place a board there to protect it. It is nicely bent where the PO smacked it on a previous effort, So was the front rad support area. It takes two guys, lotsa shoving and numerous trips under the car to try to align prop shaft and bolt holes. Yuck.

With a leveler, it's a one person job, no banging, scraping or other mishaps. I used the exhaust manifold stud by the # 4 cylinder (torqued tight on the leveler chain) and the front thermostat housing bolt (using a longer bolt). The engine is tilted to about 45 degrees and dropped and leveled in small increments as the installation proceeds.

If the prop shaft becomes troublesome it can be removed from the diff and reinstalled after the engine but on a 74 its not really necessary.

Hardest part is aligning the front engine mounting pads (one bolted to car the other (passenger side) bolted to engine.

Good luck!
 
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