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Engine paint???

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nomad

Yoda
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I know this has been discussed before but, of course, I forget where. I would like to paint the inside of an engine block and am wondering what to use and where to get it. Don't want to have any trouble with it flaking off or dissolving. Anyone know?????

Kurt.
 
nomad said:
I know this has been discussed before but, of course, I forget where. I would like to paint the inside of an engine block and am wondering what to use and where to get it. Don't want to have any trouble with it flaking off or dissolving. Anyone know?????

Kurt.
Click to expand...

Yes, Glyptal. I've done several, going back over 10 years. Never had an issue. However, you MUST get it really clean. Tanking is not good enough. You have to get in and clean it thoroughly by hand with a good automotive degreaser until your white towel stays clean. I paint it by hand with a small bush to make sure the paint soaks in to the pores. It's a lot of work.

RS68DT0001.jpg1275cylheadGlyp.jpg
 
Gerard,

Thanks for your expertise. I'm also gathering parts for, and prepping a 1275 block. It appears to be first overhaul and still has OEM light lime green inside most of the block. I believe your statement of cleanliness, and 'lots of work.' I've read Eastwood's verbiage on Glyptal, but not at all sure what the real benefit is. Having a hard time understanding how it helps oil flow, or I guess having a hard time why it actually matters if oil flows better across the block or head. Have you seen any real benefits? Thanks, Blueghost.
 
Thanks Gerard and Rut....block is fresh back from hot tank and bore. Wonder if gasoline would be a good enough degreaser. I lightly wiped the bores with an oiled rag and can see the oil wicking out from there already. Think I'll give it a try.

Kurt.
 
Kurt,
I think once your engine is in use it won't matter a whole lot. The process for cleaning will involve a lot of elbow grease and solvent and I really can't how it's worth it.
Rut
 
Beyond, "Because you'll know", is there any real advantage to doing this? Trust me I get the, "Because you'll know" aspect of painting/finishing/replacing with stainless, etc. ;) Some kind of mutation of Shipwrights disease I suppose.
 
Blueghost said:
Gerard,

Thanks for your expertise. I'm also gathering parts for, and prepping a 1275 block. It appears to be first overhaul and still has OEM light lime green inside most of the block. I believe your statement of cleanliness, and 'lots of work.' I've read Eastwood's verbiage on Glyptal, but not at all sure what the real benefit is. Having a hard time understanding how it helps oil flow, or I guess having a hard time why it actually matters if oil flows better across the block or head. Have you seen any real benefits? Thanks, Blueghost.
Click to expand...

I don't have any empirical evidence of it's benefits other than the engines I built with this coating seem to run cooler. Theoretically, if the oil is returning to the sump, rather than clinging to the rough casting, you're circulating and cooling more of the oil. This is supposedly an old hot rodder's trick, and I wanted to try it. I liked the results.

Have you ever examined the inside of one of these engines when breaking one down for a rebuild? Lots of sludgy material can be found in nooks and crannies. They will come back from the tank with much of this still remaining. I figure with the sealing and slick surface qualities, applying the coating will prevent this buildup in your "new" engine. Some argument can be made for sealing any potential bits of the casting that could break free as well.

Consider at least, that by going through the thorough cleaning as a prep for paint discipline, you'll at least benefit from the cleaning exercise. During the process, I've been surprised how much dirt and debris I can liberate from a "clean" engine.

The original engines had some sort of coating, and I'm sure it wasn't done for nothing. The Glyptal is certainly superior to the original. Does it improve performance or add longevity to the engine? Dunno, my test results are not in yet... but it makes sense to me. :encouragement:

YMMV
 
Well I checked around for price and the best I could do was $43 before shipping for a quart. I doubt I'll use up a quart and so am rethinking it now. Had decided to pass on it till Gerard's last post but he gives a good argument. I'm waiting on bottom end bearings anyway so.....

Kurt.
 
Gerard,
Certainly looks cool, and accepting the "I-know-its-there," and "all-contaminents-removed" and best of all, the "better-oil-return-flow," what about the painting sequence? You mentioned hand cleaning and hand painting. Your pictures looks like you you painted before bore. What about cam follower bores, cam bearing bores, distributor drive bore, oil pump bore, thrust washer face, threads, etc.? What about crank/rod paint? I can imagine just plain good detail hand painting, or honing, tapping. What about paint viscosity, thickness when dry? If it doesn't matter, great. If it does matter, would like to know. Looks like valve springs were painted. Does spring flex matter? Thanks for your expertise. Blueghost.
 
Blueghost said:
Gerard,
Certainly looks cool, and accepting the "I-know-its-there," and "all-contaminents-removed" and best of all, the "better-oil-return-flow," what about the painting sequence? You mentioned hand cleaning and hand painting. Your pictures looks like you you painted before bore. What about cam follower bores, cam bearing bores, distributor drive bore, oil pump bore, thrust washer face, threads, etc.? What about crank/rod paint? I can imagine just plain good detail hand painting, or honing, tapping. What about paint viscosity, thickness when dry? If it doesn't matter, great. If it does matter, would like to know. Looks like valve springs were painted. Does spring flex matter? Thanks for your expertise. Blueghost.
Click to expand...

Everything was painted after machining. I don't recall exact sequence, but the hard to reach places are better done first so you don't end up messing up finished areas. Also, areas that require carefully painting around machined areas and borders. Smooth, machined areas are not painted, even if it's not a working surface. Then, just fill in the rest. One trick is to use wine corks in the cam follower bores, but I just painted carefully around edges. (I use artist brushes) The paint is quite thick, so it doesn't run or drip easily. I didn't paint rods or anything else other than what you see, except for the pan. I believe I only did one coat, but some recommend two. I didn't feel two was necessary. I've read also baking is a good idea, but not sure if that's a manufacturer's recommendation or not. It will tack fairly quickly, but it does flow nicely. The springs are not painted, just new and they just came in similar color. The point is just to cover pours areas where oil flows/gravity drains.
 
The "stuff won't stick as well" idea - I like that. Makes sense. Mind you if we always did things that made sense we might not be so obsessed with LBCs.
 
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