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BlueRidge1
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Roger, Very nice work! Bob
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Engine compartment...she's done?
- Thread starter AUSMHLY
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OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Not sure if I have the correct horns. They are metal, not plastic, and seem old. Anyone think they may be correct for my 64 bj8 II. Early model with reflectors in back, not amber directional lights.
Keoke, the main harness wire runs behind that beam? Not screwed on the outside as PO did?
Keoke, the main harness wire runs behind that beam? Not screwed on the outside as PO did?
John Loftus
Darth Vader
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
John: My bracket was black. I was told it should be engine color. So I changed that. If you know for sure it should be black, then I change it back. Can you confirm?
John. I removed the carbs and used a wire cleaning wheel via my hand drill. Then a polishing wheel and two different polishes. Still see some of the pit marks that the aluminum has. I didn't want a complete smooth chrome finish. Now when I clean, or polish them, they don't look like that grey/aluminum dull finish I used to get. Sort of a dull shine. Does that make any sense at all, duh.
[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Roger,
I checked again and can't find a reference in the concours guidelines. I do have a list of notes for my BJ7 and wrote down that this bracket is black. I think the theory was the thottle bits are either black (gas pedal, cross rod, brackets) or zinc plated (thottle linkage) but not engine color since they were added after the engine was painted. I just checked the Chris Harvey book which has many factory photos and the engine bay on page 27 shows the bracket being black. Perhaps a concours judge will drop in here and help up out (hey Rich!)
And yes, the small steady bracket for the hood release rod, near the horns is body color. Don't feel bad .. I too have repainted many a part in the quest for originality!
Thanks for the info on the carbs. I am looking for a consistant dull finish and have played around with light acid washes and getting close to what I want.
BTW, are you using the paper type air hose for heater and fresh air or something different (hard to tell on the photo)?
I think there is a small bracket between the carb and manifold to guide/hold the petroflex line. There are two on the BJ7, but I think only one on the BJ8. Anyone else confirm this?
Also from the guidelines re: the John Bull strap, ".. was used to secure the coiled tube to the top of the left-hand heater hose between the engine block and the firewall. On some 3000 MkII cars the strap secured the coiled tube to the breather hose between the valve cover and the rear air cleaner instead of to the heater hose." Whatever you do, keep the capillary tube away from the OD switches/relay as those leads can be hot and sparks will fly!
Cheers,
John
John: My bracket was black. I was told it should be engine color. So I changed that. If you know for sure it should be black, then I change it back. Can you confirm?
John. I removed the carbs and used a wire cleaning wheel via my hand drill. Then a polishing wheel and two different polishes. Still see some of the pit marks that the aluminum has. I didn't want a complete smooth chrome finish. Now when I clean, or polish them, they don't look like that grey/aluminum dull finish I used to get. Sort of a dull shine. Does that make any sense at all, duh.
[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Roger,
I checked again and can't find a reference in the concours guidelines. I do have a list of notes for my BJ7 and wrote down that this bracket is black. I think the theory was the thottle bits are either black (gas pedal, cross rod, brackets) or zinc plated (thottle linkage) but not engine color since they were added after the engine was painted. I just checked the Chris Harvey book which has many factory photos and the engine bay on page 27 shows the bracket being black. Perhaps a concours judge will drop in here and help up out (hey Rich!)
And yes, the small steady bracket for the hood release rod, near the horns is body color. Don't feel bad .. I too have repainted many a part in the quest for originality!
Thanks for the info on the carbs. I am looking for a consistant dull finish and have played around with light acid washes and getting close to what I want.
BTW, are you using the paper type air hose for heater and fresh air or something different (hard to tell on the photo)?
I think there is a small bracket between the carb and manifold to guide/hold the petroflex line. There are two on the BJ7, but I think only one on the BJ8. Anyone else confirm this?
Also from the guidelines re: the John Bull strap, ".. was used to secure the coiled tube to the top of the left-hand heater hose between the engine block and the firewall. On some 3000 MkII cars the strap secured the coiled tube to the breather hose between the valve cover and the rear air cleaner instead of to the heater hose." Whatever you do, keep the capillary tube away from the OD switches/relay as those leads can be hot and sparks will fly!
Cheers,
John
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Hey John, thanks for taking the time to research that for me.
Because of this post, I have painted the small rubber hose green, painted both the brake bracket and steady bracket blue.
My hoses are rubber. Here is a link to where I purchased them.
https://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=9&new=1
I'm not a concourse car. Just a nice driver. Some things I feel inclined to make as correct as possible, some things I feel are an improvement. The hoses will not wear out, and can be cleaned to keep looking like new.
Other changes I've made:
reflector is also a stop/turn
Dynamate the inside of the car
Additional heat shield under the car and trans tunnel
Heat shield padding replaces jute - no water retention
Gortex bike cables replace both carb cables - can't tell
Gortex bike cable replaces heater inlet cable - can't tell
Lucas PL700 headlight
Mota-lita steering wheel
Electronic fuel pump
Taller rear view mirror stem - looks like stock, but taller
72 spoke rims
Well, so much for entering concourse. Roger
Because of this post, I have painted the small rubber hose green, painted both the brake bracket and steady bracket blue.
My hoses are rubber. Here is a link to where I purchased them.
https://www.tomsimport.com/new/parts/parts.asp?sect=9&new=1
I'm not a concourse car. Just a nice driver. Some things I feel inclined to make as correct as possible, some things I feel are an improvement. The hoses will not wear out, and can be cleaned to keep looking like new.
Other changes I've made:
reflector is also a stop/turn
Dynamate the inside of the car
Additional heat shield under the car and trans tunnel
Heat shield padding replaces jute - no water retention
Gortex bike cables replace both carb cables - can't tell
Gortex bike cable replaces heater inlet cable - can't tell
Lucas PL700 headlight
Mota-lita steering wheel
Electronic fuel pump
Taller rear view mirror stem - looks like stock, but taller
72 spoke rims
Well, so much for entering concourse. Roger
I recently purchased a decal kit from MossMotors as a few bits are missing from my '67 BJ8 - notably the lovely AUSTIN black on silver for the engine.
I was pondering how to attach it this moring when I received the kit when I realised I have no idea where all the others go - there's not diagram or description for the locations. Some can be guessed - any suggestions gentlemen/ ladies?
I'd like to get this right!
Googling for now....
I was pondering how to attach it this moring when I received the kit when I realised I have no idea where all the others go - there's not diagram or description for the locations. Some can be guessed - any suggestions gentlemen/ ladies?
I'd like to get this right!
Googling for now....
Update...
I found the picture of all of the decals - this might help mate. I've not looked at them in great detail yet...so please excuse my ignorance if they're obvious!
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=56950&SortOrder=2
I found the picture of all of the decals - this might help mate. I've not looked at them in great detail yet...so please excuse my ignorance if they're obvious!
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=56950&SortOrder=2
John Loftus
Darth Vader
Offline
Hi Rob,
Here's a marked up photo with some notes below. For a '67 BJ8, some of these won't be needed or are incorrect. This is one problem with a 'kit' of labels. Some are not applicable and some are the wrong graphic or type of label.
A - Tudor Bottle Label - Not sure if a label is original treatment or if they were silk screened?
B - Wire Harness Label - correct. This wraps around the main harness just to the right of the voltage regulator (as viewed from the front of car). On my car it was placed under the harness P clip and barely visible.
C - Rear valve cover plate. This is the earlier brass "valve clearance setting" plate which is riveted on. The brass plate was used until the middle of BJ8 production and then they changed to a silver/black plate (still riveted on). Then the changed to a silver foil label. Those valve covers don't have rivet holes.
D - Interior heater box label. These need correct numbers stamped. Unfortunately the repo labels are not an exact copy graphically.
E - Lucas Coil label
F - Cooper Air Cleaner labels. These were originally 'water slide decals' but most suppliers have them as stick-on labels.
G - Triplex label. Originally the glass had markings applied during the manufacture. Not sure if this is a stick-on label but if so, would not be close to looking original
H - Not sure if this is for the OD relay, Voltage Regulator or what. Let us know what it says.
I - Brake reservoir label for the early cars. This should be a water slide decal but obviously isn't used for your car. You should have white 12 pt Helvetica letters saying CLUTCH and BRAKE along the lower portion that correspond to the brake line placement
J - Car Number plate for firewall. This needs to be stamped with the car number (www.clarkspares.com can do this if provided with car registration documents)
K - Front valve cover plate. Also the earlier type riveted plate used into BJ8 production. Then switched to silver foil label with valve cover having no rivet holes.
Here's a marked up photo with some notes below. For a '67 BJ8, some of these won't be needed or are incorrect. This is one problem with a 'kit' of labels. Some are not applicable and some are the wrong graphic or type of label.
A - Tudor Bottle Label - Not sure if a label is original treatment or if they were silk screened?
B - Wire Harness Label - correct. This wraps around the main harness just to the right of the voltage regulator (as viewed from the front of car). On my car it was placed under the harness P clip and barely visible.
C - Rear valve cover plate. This is the earlier brass "valve clearance setting" plate which is riveted on. The brass plate was used until the middle of BJ8 production and then they changed to a silver/black plate (still riveted on). Then the changed to a silver foil label. Those valve covers don't have rivet holes.
D - Interior heater box label. These need correct numbers stamped. Unfortunately the repo labels are not an exact copy graphically.
E - Lucas Coil label
F - Cooper Air Cleaner labels. These were originally 'water slide decals' but most suppliers have them as stick-on labels.
G - Triplex label. Originally the glass had markings applied during the manufacture. Not sure if this is a stick-on label but if so, would not be close to looking original
H - Not sure if this is for the OD relay, Voltage Regulator or what. Let us know what it says.
I - Brake reservoir label for the early cars. This should be a water slide decal but obviously isn't used for your car. You should have white 12 pt Helvetica letters saying CLUTCH and BRAKE along the lower portion that correspond to the brake line placement
J - Car Number plate for firewall. This needs to be stamped with the car number (www.clarkspares.com can do this if provided with car registration documents)
K - Front valve cover plate. Also the earlier type riveted plate used into BJ8 production. Then switched to silver foil label with valve cover having no rivet holes.
OP
AUSMHLY
Yoda
Offline
Nice job John.
Here's my two cents.
The coil label goes on the sliver coil, in front of the holding bracket. The Lucas gold sports coil has a green label printed on the holding bracket.
My Tudor bottle does not have a label applied. It is painted (silkscreened?)on.
Both the rear (C) and front (K) valve cover plates were attached with flat head rivets.
There is an "overdrive relay" label on the top of the overdrive switch.
There are yellow sleeves that go on the spark plug wires.
Here are some photos showing locations.
Ciao, Roger
Here's my two cents.
The coil label goes on the sliver coil, in front of the holding bracket. The Lucas gold sports coil has a green label printed on the holding bracket.
My Tudor bottle does not have a label applied. It is painted (silkscreened?)on.
Both the rear (C) and front (K) valve cover plates were attached with flat head rivets.
There is an "overdrive relay" label on the top of the overdrive switch.
There are yellow sleeves that go on the spark plug wires.
Here are some photos showing locations.
Ciao, Roger
