Engine Block Paint

[mallard]

Looking for recommendations for the best engine block paint. I've used the high heat spray can befor with OK results, But after a short time it seems to loose it's gloss and turns a bit to the grey side. Anybody have good luck with black paint that holds up?

 

[pjsmetana]

Duplicolor Engine Paint. Comes in a spray can at Advance Auto Parts for about $8 a can. No complaints at all from me yet (at least not with the paint).

 

[PeterK]

2nd on Duplicolor engine paint. High solids and covers well.

 

[Andrew Mace]

3rd! as above. :wink:

 

[dklawson]

For rattle cans, Duplicolor as above. If you want something quite a bit thicker, buy black engine enamel from POR-15. That stuff is NOT the rust protection product but a VERY thick enamel suitable for brushing on blocks. It can be thinned with mineral spirits for spraying on things like valve covers.

 

[davidk]

I've also had good results with POR-15. Just brushed it on.

 

[mountainman]

I am a big fan of Por-15. Though quite expensive I have used it on the tub inside and out. The complete frame and front suspension[not on the tie rod threads]. Used their engine paint and brake caliphers paint. I don't want anymore rust. From what I read and in talking to a few restorers it is good stuff.
Greg

 

[TonyPanchot]

:thumbsup:

POR 15 is the way to go

 

[dklawson]

Just to be clear, I was advocating POR's engine enamel, not POR-15's rust treatment paint. They are very different products.

 

[mallard]

Thanks everybody for the information. I think I will try the POR15 engine enamel. I will try to spray it. I don't want it to look thick.

 

[dklawson]

Try brushing POR enamel on the block before spraying it. It will level VERY nicely without leaving brush strokes. If you want to spray things like the valve cover, thin the POR enamel with mineral spirits to a "good" consistency for spraying. Put down at least two coats. The second coat should be applied before the first coat is completely dry. Even being careful with the timing you may get some wrinkling of the enamel when the second coat is applied. If that happens, allow the paint to dry for a week (or put it under a heat lamp for a day) so the paint hardens. Then use rubbing compound to level out any wrinkles. The results can be very good. However, if you're going for "black", the spray Duplicolor for the valve cover will be a lot easier to deal with.

 

[pjsmetana]

That POR15 is decent stuff... I'll agree, but the Duplicolor Engine Enamel is just so easy to use and it looks soooooo good, and cost sooo little! 2 light coats, 2 mins apart, then a semi wet 3rd coat. Let it sit for 10 mins. Check for any spots you might have prayed too light, spray them, then wait an HOUR. The end. You can touch and handle it and whatever you want. No bake time required... like I said, too easy to pass up for anything else.

 

[poolboy]

Anybody have a recommendation for exhaust header paint, other than the Jet Coat; something in a rattle can ?

 

[pjsmetana]

Anybody have a recommendation for exhaust header paint, other than the Jet Coat; something in a rattle can ?

I haven't found one that doesn't get dull after about 8 months.

 

[dklawson]

Anybody have a recommendation for exhaust header paint, other than the Jet Coat; something in a rattle can ?

Black grill paint from the home center, seriously. Manifold/header paint just doesn't have any binders in it. It will look OK for a short while and then start to flake off. If you wash your engine, most the paint will come off the exhaust the first time. Grill paint has much higher binder content and in-spite-of the temperature rating being lower... will hold up just fine. If black isn't the color you want, POR does have some (brush on) high-temperature exhaust paints that I've tried. They do seem OK but you spend a lot more for them.

 

[poolboy]

Thanks, fellas.
Doug, I've seen that kind of paint, for BBQ grills and stoves, right ?

 

[dklawson]

Yes. That's the paint I've had good luck with.