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TR4/4A Engine block deck flatness

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Sarastro

Sarastro

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I'm ready to take my block to the machine shop for mostly ordinary work. The question of deck flatness will come up, I expect. Is it customary to shave the top of the block to flatten the deck? If so, how do you adjust the cylinder protrusion to achieve the rather narrow spec of 3-5 mils? The shop manual says to use figure-8 gaskets of some appropriate thickness, but I see two problems with this: (1) they don't seem to be very easily available, and (2) if you shave the block, you might be left with too much protrusion, even with a thin gasket.

So, what is done about this? If necessary, is is OK to shave the tops of the cylinders, for example?
 
Before you take your block, I would rough in the front and rear liners, using a type of FO8 gasket you plan to use in final assembly. Measure your sleeve clearance above the block deck and then tell your machinist what to do. If the clearance proud of the deck is correct, then do not let the machinist touch the deck (this is most common case!). If the deck is sloped, so the clearance is significantly off between front and rear...then tell the machinist how much from the low clearance side.
 
Don't forget to also check from side to side. I've had two in a row now where it was right on one side but not the other.

(If you include the Standard motor in my TEA20, it's 2 out of 3.)
 
Thanks, guys. The obvious thing to do is to buy the new pistons and cylinders and see where things stand.

Thanks, Randall, for the tip about headgasket.com. I hadn't found it. I didn't see anything about figure-8 gaskets on the site, but I'll contact him and see what's available.

BTW, Randall, do you have a machine shop in this area that you like to use? I have used one that is OK, but I'm always open to more suggestions.
 
Sarastro said:
BTW, Randall, do you have a machine shop in this area that you like to use? I have used one that is OK, but I'm always open to more suggestions.
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Not really. Years ago, I had K,K & T over in Torrance (1407 W Carson) rework a head for me, but I don't even know if they are still in business (or have the same machinist).

Others I've used are either gone or no longer take work from private individuals.
 
We've lost most of my favorite shops over the last 10 years or so in the the DFW area. I still have one, but the owner is near retiring...so it'll be gone soon. Then we have a couple speed shops, including Rehr Morrison, who are VERY good and nationally known from their drag racing fame...but you pay for them to even think about a taking a job!?!

I'm afraid we gear heads are a dying bread.
 
If you do not know, make sure you look at the threads about re-installing the head bolts to the block. They go back in only snug/a strong finger tight with clean threads. What I do on the ones that go deep into the block is use WD40 (because it seems to work well on tar like stuff)down along the stud and lightly tap it with a small hammer for the vibration to break the crap lose.
 
Thanks; I wasn't aware that there was anything special about installing the head studs. I probably would have inserted them as you describe, in any case. I'm nowhere near that point, yet, alas.
 
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