• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 Electrical Problem with TR6

Share this page

T

TR3and6

Freshman Member
Offline
Hello:
I am a new member and would like any help I can get on a current electrical Problem, 1976 TR6.
It started out with the rt. turn signal not illuminating. Checked bulbs, grounds,front and rear, etc.
Switch works as you can hear the flasher pulsating, but no light.
Found open wire on rt marker light reconnected.Noted Blown fuse (lower fuse). Installed new fuse (35 amp).
Upon connecting Battery,Lower fuse wires started smoking, did not blow fuse (35 amp).
Disconnected marker circuit.
Upon re-connecting Battery,Lower fuse wires started smoking again, did not blow fuse (35 amp).
Recently had to replace middle fuse (blown) when horn did not work. New fuse fixed that problem.
About 30 days ago I had to force unfreezing the Instrument rheostat.
This may have started #3 fuse problem as I did not notice lack of panel lights.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Got Message re: 35 amp fuse Thx MR
 
Are they British Fuses for starters?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Hello
An update on my problem.
Resolved issue with dash illumination rheostat.
Isolated problem to apparently be with the Hazard switch.
When I pull the Hazard switch to on position the third (lowest) fuse blows. If switch is in the off position everything works except the original right turn signal.
Disconnected Hazard switch and attempted to connect the green lead to the green/white(Rt turn signal) and green/red (Lt turn signal). Result was the first fuse (top most blew).
The info on the wire chart and fuse ratings was most helpful.
I'm thinking the problem is with the Hazard switch (replace) but that's a costly and difficult operation re: dash board partial removal.
I am looking for ideas.
Thanks,
TR3and6
 
I would not suspect the hazard switch since it is used very little. I would check to make sure it is wired correctly since you have the schematic.
It's also possible that you have a grounded circut casuing the fuse to blow.
 
Like, the right turn signal feed is connected to the ground....or the socket is internally shorted.
Unplug the right turn signal wires, front and back, see if the hazard blows the fuse.
Turn hazard off.
Connect RF, try turn signals. If no light, unplug, and re-connect RR, see if you have signal there. That's a quick isolation.
 
Well
here I am again.
Still no luck with the Rt turn signal.
Pretty much tried everthing.
Zeroed in on Hazard Flasher. Replaced, albeit with 5 amp rather than 10 amp. Hazard lights worked even though the 5 amp flasher heated up, did not blow fuse.
Oddly enough, when I disconnected the front to back wiring harness and activatedthe the rt signal, front blinker lit up and stayed on, curious.
At this point every light works, even all the previously shorted out marker lights. Even soldered the rear right socket to improve conductivity. All grounds are good.

Bottom line, when I engage the Rt turn signal I clearly hear the flasher with a rapid beat, but no illumination.

Sigh.
Any new ideas out there.
Thanks
Bob
 
So when you turn on the hazard flashers, is the RR light the same brightness as the LR?

I'm guessing that there is still a partial short in the RR lamp or the wiring to it. My next step might be to connect an ammeter (DMM set to 10 amp range) in place of the turn flasher, and compare what it reads between right and left. The lamps should come on solid of course, making it easier to read the steady current.
 
Well, suprise suprise
Randell was right.
I isolated the rt wire in the rear harness and connected an outside wire, totally isolating the wire. Lo and behold the rt signal worked.
Final solution. I cut the GW RT wire isolating it from any back feed and installed a parallel wire. Problem solved.
Hazard flasher also need to be replaced for $6 bucks. Minimum order from Moss is $10 bucks + &6 bucks shipping.
I will just wait on flasher.
Thanks again to Randell
Bob R
 
Back
Top