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Electric Fan Question

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jerrybny

jerrybny

Jedi Knight
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I want to add an electric fan as a pusher. I bought a Hayden 14" fan. My question is it looks like if I go with that size I won't be able to mount an oil cooler in the future in the pre-existing holes. What size fans are you guys using for those that are using a fan as a pusher and does anyone have both a pusher electric fan and an oil cooler installed. Thanks
 
I run the same fan and also in the "pusher" configuration, no oil cooler.
I think you are right about not being able to mount an oil cooler, no room left. Judging from the photos and posts on BCF the guys running oil coolers and electric fans have the fans mounted in the "puller" config and have removed the mechanical fan.
 
Why would you want a pusher fan? Mount it at the back, remove the stock fan, get a few free hp.
 
alan, are you saying all I have to do is remove the red 13 bladed fan and I gain a couple of HP? Notheing else to remove?
 
Jerry,

IMO, the puller fan is much better for a few reasons.

1. The pusher actually blocks air
2. Removing the stock fan and installing a puller gives you free horsepower.
3. You can actually hear the intake instead of the big "WOOSH!!" of the OEM fan.

I think TR6Bill on this forum found a really thin fan that works pretty well.

The following web page gives a great overview of the entire process:
https://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6fan

Shane (the author of the above article) talks about shortening the crankshaft extension, this is unnecessary since this guy makes a kit to eliminate the OEM extension:
https://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/eliminator.htm
 
Soapbox mode perhaps... but Andy's question was also on my mind.

Too often owners attempt to fix overheating by adding electric fans, oil coolers, etc. Just as some fix ignition problems with an electronic module.

These mods have there place but if a car (TR or otherwise) has an overheating problem or ignition problem or whatever, my first choice would be to get at the root of the problem then when that is sorted out consider the advantages of modification.

Not saying this is your situation, perhaps your car stays cool just fine and you want an electric fan or oil cooler for other reasons.
 
during the summer when I am in traffic my temp starts to approach 3/4 mark. Its ok once I can get back up to speed but I am worried about being in slow traffic for a while and overheating. Its the only time the gauge goes past half way. I've flushed the system, new thermostat, and I have the fan duct in front of the radiator. I figure the lecrtic fan will bring down the temp while in traffic.
 
Jerry,

I had this same problem and tried to fix it with an electric fan to no avail. It turned out I had a faulty water pump, even though it was brand new. The impeller blades were ever so slightly angled, instead of being at 90 degrees - just enough to allow a little water to slip by without being pumped at low speeds. At high speeds, they still pumped enough water to keep the car cool.

Out of frustration, after trying everything else I could think of, I bought a new pump. When I took the old one out, it looked so good I almost put it back instead of the new one. I went ahead and put the new one in anyway, and voila! no more problems. The difference between the impeller blades on the two pumps was so small I had to really look close to see it. After I spotted it, it was pretty obvious, even though I had to use a square to see it.

You really shouldn't need to add a fan to keep your car cool.
 
Jerry,

Andy is right, even though I am a proponent of electric fans, your stock fan should be able to do the job with no problems. I did my converstion purely for performance and sound reasons. In North Carolina heat with my OEM fan, the temp guage rarely ever got to the midway point.

Have you checked your timing? That could cause over heating as well. My vote is for GEO, I think your problem is probably in the ignition.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...during the summer when I am in traffic my temp starts to approach 3/4 mark. Its ok once I can get back up to speed...

[/ QUOTE ]

That's why I added an electric. Living in an area where the temp goes over 100 for 3 or 4 months of the year a long traffic stop or slow driving will exceed the capacity of most any 45-year-old cooling system. You don't get much cooling from moving air when the air (12" above the asphalt) is 130-140 degrees.

I have a pusher with a manual switch as I can usually anticipate when it is going to be needed and flip it on before things get hot.
 
The biggest problem I see with the standard cooling set up is the lack of a proper shroud, like my Spitfire, means a terribly inefficient fan. It doesn't pull through the rad if the air can come from the sides.
 
The problem with an engine driven fan is that they move the most air when not needed and the least amount of air when needed. Once the car is moving, the engine driven fan is just a burden spinning at 3-4000 rpm. Once you're stuck idling in traffic, the fan is only spinning at 1000 rpm...exactly the time you need more, because there is no air moving through the radiator like there is when you're moving. It's all backwards. With everything in the cooling system perfect, the engine driven fan in the TR is still marginal. I'm opting for an electric fan, as it will operate when needed, and only when needed.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I think I am gonna go with the puller configuration. That way I will get a few extra horsepower(who can't use that). I plan to change my water pump also. Its the original and the car has 74000 miles on it. I figure since I will have the radiator out to mount the electric fan and remove the OEM and billet I might as well spend the money and only have to do this once. I know my timing is ok as I have checked this many times. I will take a good look at the radiator while it is out. It too is original and might need replacing. Besides since the car is up on blocks for the winter now is the time to do all this so I can enjoy the car when spring comes.
Happy Holidays to 1 and all
 
Hi Jerry,

If you are considering a new water pump, the best ones I've seen are avail. from Ken Gillanders at British Frame & Engine (www.britishframeandengien.com). He offers a 6-blade high performance water pump and the blades are curved to prevent cavitation at higher rpms. Ken offers these for both the TR 4-cyl. and 6-cyl. engines. A bit expensive, of course, but it's a darned good item. I think Ken also offers the 6-blade impellors only, if someone wants to upgrade a good, existing pump.

The 4-cyl. variety are even machined on the outside, so the pulley has pletny of clearance and won't rub (a problem with many cheaper repro pulleys and pumps). I don't know if this is a common problem on the 6-cyl. cars.
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[ QUOTE ]
I will take a good look at the radiator while it is out. It too is original and might need replacing.

[/ QUOTE ]

I'd suggest you take it to a radiator shop for a rebuild. Last one I had done cost $100, a lot less than buying new, and I'd guess the original rads are sturdier than many modern replacements.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
during the summer when I am in traffic my temp starts to approach 3/4 mark. Its ok once I can get back up to speed but I am worried about being in slow traffic for a while and overheating. Its the only time the gauge goes past half way. I've flushed the system, new thermostat, and I have the fan duct in front of the radiator. I figure the lecrtic fan will bring down the temp while in traffic.

[/ QUOTE ]A couple more questions for you:
1. What thermostat are you using? "Winter," "Summer" or somewhere in between?
2. When you flushed the system, did you open the drain on the engine block? Better yet, did you probe around in the drain hole? Even if you get a reasonable flow out of that drain hole, I can virtually guarantee that some probing with a stiff wire or small screwdriver will loosen up lots and lots of crud, after which much more coolant will flow and your temperature WILL drop! I've been through this dozens of times on Triumphs, and it's always helped. And no, chemical flushes alone don't seem to loosen all the sediment that builds up in the block (I've tried most of them as well).

I'd double-check all of that before adding another fan. Unless you plan to summer with the car in the deep south or western US, it's almost never likely to get hot enough to overly strain the cooling system. Far as I can tell, the entire cooling system, down to the radiator cap, is original on my '62 Herald, and all is fine (except that it's very fussy, for some reason, about having a summer thermostat in the summer and a winter thermostat for later fall and early spring)!
 
The only time my car ever approached overheating was when I drove my daughter in the local home coming parade. Stop and go, and when moving at less than walking pace. This was on a fairly cool day in the fall. It never actaully spewed, but the gauge as past 3/4 approaching the red. It cooled down immediately once I could drive past 10 mph.
I had flushed the system and replaced the water pump, hoses, new yellow fan, belt, etc., earlier in the year and it ran great all summer, even on 90+ F days. Air movement through the radiator is the key.
 
I can say that with a modified motor with stainless headers and the best summer heat that North Carolina can throw at it, my TR6 has never come close to overheating with my puller electric fan. I frequently drive it work in stop and go traffic.
 
No Andrew I didn't open the drain on the engine block. To be honest I didn't think of that and I'm not even sure where it is located.
 
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