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T-Series Dynamator Alternator conversion.

PAUL161

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Looking for a POSITIVE ground Dynamator conversion for my 55TF. No one seems to have one available, anyone know of one available? PJ
 

PAUL161

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I tried B&G but they didn't have one and as said, no one here has any, Abingdon is sold out. One will pop up sooner or later. (y)
 

PAUL161

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Just ordered one from Waford Classics in the UK. They now sell them through eBay here. Near duplicate to the original dynamo/generator. PJ
 

PAUL161

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Just came today by DHL Wray. It'll be a few days before I can get to it, but will let you know. Evidently DHL didn't like how it was originally packaged, so they re-packaged it inside to meet their specifications, that's good quality service! PJ

DynoAlt 3.jpg
DynoAlt.jpg
DynoAlt 2.jpg
 

Wray

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Paul, that's cool. Keep me posted. The generator just can't keep up during the night parade at Christmas, idling along for three hours. I want the lights to stay full on when I'm at a stop light, too.
 

PAUL161

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To keep the system looking like the original, I need a de funk control box I can strip out and modify. I have two perfect ones, but I don't want to destroy either one of them. Someone already offered me one for shipping, have to remember who that was! LOL. PJ
 

Grantura_MKI

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These units are the way to go of you want to keep the original look while increasing amps. I first fitted one to a Bristol that had electric cooling fans, etc and the battery would not hold a charge. This cured the problem.
 

PAUL161

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A friend just sent me a striped-out control box and as soon as it comes I'll start figuring everything out. PJ
 

PAUL161

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Started converting a control box so that all wiring looks like the original. I need to install a 40 amp fuse which is ordered but not here yet. Here are a couple of pics of the control box so far. I soldered spade lugs on the bottom to except the hidden wiring. Now I need to find the thread size for the belt adjustment bolt, doesn't appear to be a BSF thread on the new unit. PJ
 

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PAUL161

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Well, I have everything together, but found out the tach drive gearbox coupling has damaged threads and needs replacing, so a new coupling is on its way from Moss. Update later. (y)
 

PAUL161

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I hooked up the alternator without the tach drive and with all the lights on, including the driving lights, it takes about 1200 RPMs to keep the ammeter needle in the center, (Neutral), anything above 1200 RPMs is charging. About 2000 RPMs the unit is charging about 10 amps. Now that's on a battery that's near fully charged Optima battery, after a few minutes the needle went to almost zero. I do have to re-wire the dash light, as it is staying on while running. A positive ground system causes extra work in the wiring due to the relay needed. I would have converted to a negative system if it wasn't for a fairly new electronic SU fuel pump. If Dave was still with us, I would have had him convert it to negative. Moss order not here yet. PJ
 

PAUL161

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Well, it wasn't the tach drive coupling, it is the threads on the dynamator instead. The threads were cut on a slight taper, just enough to cause the coupling to jamb about 1/3rd on. I have a new die coming to chase the threads from the UK. 3/4 X 26TPI BSB die. Odd threads to be sure and I was lucky to obtain a tap and die for them. PJ
 

PAUL161

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Update, the alternator quit working! I contacted the seller (Watford Classics) and told them about it, also told them about DHL putting a letter in the package stating when they got the package it seemingly was dropped on a hard surface and the unit broke through the side of the box. They figured the internals got damaged when that happened and caused the unit to malfunction. They said they're sending me a replacement and because shipping back to them is so expensive, to just trash the damaged unit, which is what they would do. How cool is that! A good company that stands behind its product! đź‘Ť PJ
 
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