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Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need guide

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Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Randall's advice with the fingers is good, but you should try to see if a 3/8" inch extension, with the female end against the crank fits. If I remember I used one to line up the last clutch on my 6. Again like he says when tightening the bolts, try to center it, so that equal amount of splines are circumferentially equal.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Tinster said:
Where are the spinning lifters located in our clutch assemblies?
Click to expand...
Not in our clutch assemblies !

I could suggest where they might be found, but that would be a cheap shot :square:
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

TheSearcherMan said:
This is for Mr. Swift. No, I don't write military manuals, but thanks for the complement. You have always seemed to take interest in my posts, I'm flattered. I am the one being scorned in here, not you. Anyhow, if I were you, I would check and see if my #1, 7, 8 lifters are spinning, if you think that is important. I suspect they are not. I think you should comment more on the technical nature of my posts, rather than the delivery method. You sound like you would rather have someone tell you what you want to hear, rather than just the facts. I am proud of my mechanical know how, and, I realize the value of solid tecnical advice. I am not looking down at anyone in here, but more importantly, one thing I can assure you of, I ain't looking up either.
Click to expand...

Searcher, I'm not going to quibble with you. Especially when you go back and change your posts to eliminate the comments which spurred me to re-act. In that particular post, you offered no technical advice but plenty of condescension. Now, it does contain technical advice but no condescending attitude, how peculiar. This also seems to be a pattern. Are you quietly admitting that your original posts might tend toward being abrasive? Don't worry about telling me what I want to hear, but don't tell me something is fact when its an opinion or theory either. I'm not aspiring to be looked up to in here. Nobody should. I've learned a lot through this forum, I've also shared a lot through this forum. I'm happy if someone finds my advice useful.

Steve1970 said:
shawn, you just cured about 80 percent of my apprehension about this job, thanks.
Click to expand...

This was all I needed.

And because you asked. All my lifters and push-rods are spinning just fine. Yes, I checked, just for you. :smile: Your suspicion was incorrect.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Mr. Swift, "Seacher, I'm not going to quibble with you", then why did you proceed to spend a paragraph doing just that? I'll make you a deal, you don't bother me, I won't bother you, but, somehow, I don't think you take me up on that, and that's fine too.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

OK Steve- To get back on point, clutch stuff maybe.

I Googled spinning lifters to see what they might be
and to determine if I had forgotten to install them
in my new clutch.

I purchashed the Magic Clutch Kit from Roadster Factory,
as well as all the other clutch system components such as
master cyl, slave cyl, bearing, bearing fork, pedal shaft,
etc. I looked back at my photo of clutch parts when they arrived.

Nothing in my photos looks like this- which Google tells me is a "spinning lifter".

Maybe they wrap around inside the bell housing and help
"lift" the throw out bearing? Ya got me. But I have none
of the spinning lifter gizzmos in my car- I'm positive.

d
spinningLifter.jpg
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

hey wuddaya know, i pulled the transmission today!! step one is complete.

..and there were NO SURPRISES! you guys covered everything!! on reviewing the thread, you can see that not only was the instruction you all provided complete, but it was intuitive and detailed to perfect granularity (not too detailed, not too generalized). a very big thank you to all who took the time to respond (and to wifey for helping me guide it out of the car!)

the problem was indeed the fork. the pin, however, was not sheared.. the fork itself was just loose; loose to the extent that the fork lever (which attaches to the slave cyl rod) had play of about 1/2 inch.

funny thing... i can't get the dam pin to come out, i took a 7/16 open end wrench to the thing and tried like heck to turn it left, and then right.. ironically, the only thing i succeeded in doing was tightening the fork tight to the shaft (and for a split second i almost talked myself into throwing the tranny back in and pretend that nothing happened!!). anyone got any tips on how to unscrew a stuck fork pin?

btw.. the clutch is a borg, and it looks in really good shape. (last yr the po said it had been recently replaced). i may keep the pp and just replace the disk.

tinster you were right, the rear engine seal needs replacement.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

This is probably stale info by now, but thought I'd
share these pics of my engine and tranny going in
all in one fowl swoop (not foul swoop, please....

Up and over with the engine hoist:

P1010003-37.jpg


and some tilt:

P1010004-32.jpg


P1010006-27.jpg


P1010007-24.jpg


And tranny side coming in:

P1010008-26.jpg


and here is the cross member which must come out,
in my opinion, to remove and replace the engine.
We got excited and put in in before replacing the
engine and had to unbolt it again as shown here:

P1010009-25.jpg


For what it's worth on the tranny install, while this
should have been a piece of cake because the engine
was out and on its hoist, I thought it would be smart to
install the top three threaded studs at the top of the
bell housing to hang the tranny onto before placing and
tightening the rest of the bolts. This was a mistake.
After some fumbling, I learned that no bolts or threaded
studs should be placed until the tranny has slid into
place on the spline (or whatever it's called). With no
bolts/studs in place, the tranny can be shifted left
and right (rotating between approx 11:00 to 2:00) until
it slides on.

Lastly: Yep, she will go in thar:

P1010012-23.jpg
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Tom, How do you feel being corrected by an Englishman, and probably someone from slangy London neighborhood? :devilgrin: :jester:
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Hey, I'm from Yorkshire - I'm not a shandy drinking Southerner. I just lived in London for a while...
:wink:
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Thanks, Alana, and not to steal the thread. Been a while
since I've had the time to post or even work on the
car. And you're right, the weather was beautiful.

Thanks for the correction...hey, I thought if birds fly...
I dunno....fowl, foul.... okay....fell swoop it is.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Toney neighborhood Huh?
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Oh yeah. Ritzy. Think Pa coal town, but with funny accents.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Cool!
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

TheSearcherMan said:
I just hacksawed the shaft on mine. If you do it in the right place, you only cut once.
Click to expand...

searcherMan, if i read you correctly you're saying that the fork and shaft cannot be salvaged here?

i assume the cut to the shaft should be (if facing the bellhousing opening) just to the right of the fork?

thanks, steve
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Steve,

If the fork has 1/2" of play, the pin has to be sheared
off inside the shaft or the shaft itself is bugger up.

Cut the old shaft thru and thru near the fork, wiggle
the fork off and order a new shaft.

Take some photos and post them.

best of luck,

dale
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Steve1970 said:
funny thing... i can't get the dam pin to come out, i took a 7/16 open end wrench to the thing and tried like heck to turn it left, and then right.. ironically, the only thing i succeeded in doing was tightening the fork tight to the shaft (and for a split second i almost talked myself into throwing the tranny back in and pretend that nothing happened!!). anyone got any tips on how to unscrew a stuck fork pin?
Click to expand...
Steve, I'm almost certain that means your pin really is broken. The break is not apparent from the outside, where it breaks is between the threaded portion inside the fork and the tapered portion inside the shaft. Of course they don't break cleanly, and subsequent clutch operation bends over the broken edges until they won't come out (easily) through the threads.

In my case, persistence and excessive force eventually forced the broken part out through the threads. Kept working the pin back and forth, using an 8-point socket and breaker bar to turn the pin. The 8-point socket (available from Sears or any quality tool supplier) lets you put a lot more force on the pin than an open-end wrench does.

But yours may indeed be so bad that the fork is not salvageable. Fortunately they aren't expensive. And the shaft is usually worn badly enough that it's ready for replacement anyway.

BTW, the TR2-3 used wide brass bushings for the clutch shaft instead of the narrow steel ones that the TR6 used. They will interchange and are readily available if you feel like upgrading. There are two different bushings, get two of the one that doesn't have the locating slot in it.

I also drilled and tapped the gearbox housing for grease zerks to lubricate the pivot points. The earlier cars had zerks on the ends of the shaft; but they were deleted later on, and at least on my Stag there is no room for them. But there's plenty of room on the housing to add them.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Yes, you need a new shaft, fork, and check the 2 bushings that the shaft goes thru, I would just replace them, if I remember, there are 2 lengths, use the long if you can. Once again, if I remember right, yes, cut just to the right. Also,, if you replace the TO bearing sleeve, be aware there can be clearence issues to deal with. Also, check the little pin that keeps the TO bearing from spinning. If you are replacing the clutch, knowing what I know now, I would maybe give Revington TR a call. Now is the time to check everything, trans. mounts, etc. If that fork pin is broken, it means, sometime in the past, there has been excessive pedal pressure, caused by a "nasty", cause I can't use profanity in here, pressure plate. If everything is right, the clutch is somewhat easy to push in, and you don't need to push it to the floor to disengage.
 
Re: Dropping gearbox to replace fork pin, need gu

Randall- The TR4A shaft has the grease zerks on the ends.
You can get them from Moss Motors or TRF.

Not to confuse but my 69TR6 engine block is TR250 and my
tranny is a TR4A. The fork shaft I removed was for a TR6
and seemed to work fine. I'm guessing the TR4A shaft will
fit a TR6 tranny as well. But best to call ahead and ask.

SM is correct about the fork pins. They might need to be
fine wet sanded for proper fit against the T/O bearing.

dale
 
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