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TRDejaVu
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That is the brand I have had in my TR4 since 2006 and I have had no issues after leaks or spills onto paint.CJD said:
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DOT 5 Brake Fluid
- Thread starter CJD
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Don Elliott
Obi Wan
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All the Dot 5 silicone fluids I used over the last 21 years in my 1958 TR3A was bought from Roadster Factory. Except once, when I bought a small can in an emergency from the local Harley-Davidson store. It cost about 4 times the price. I believe that for years, H-D have used only Dot 5 silicone fluid in all their bikes and they wouldn't want to make any of their clients unhappy about ANYTHING !
angelfj1
Yoda
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John, please excuse my emotion. I'm Italian heritage. 
But yes, this is worth looking into. Might I suggest that you "apply" a little bit of another brand of Dot 5 to an inconspicuous place. I suspect it will not attack the finish. Also, have you mentioned this to your paint supplier? Is it possible that this PPG formulation is less? I would be surprised if there was a problem!
But yes, this is worth looking into. Might I suggest that you "apply" a little bit of another brand of Dot 5 to an inconspicuous place. I suspect it will not attack the finish. Also, have you mentioned this to your paint supplier? Is it possible that this PPG formulation is less? I would be surprised if there was a problem!
SkinnedKnuckles
Jedi Trainee
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Since it was the "first time" for using DOT 5, could it have been possible that some DOT 3/4 hit the paint first during the change over? Don't know how you actually "changed over", but that seems kinda likely...
OP
CJD
Yoda
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Brent,
This is a complete restoration. Not a drop of 3/4 has been anywhere near the car for 10 months. All seals and rubber is new. OK, here goes a try at a picture:
Now here is an interesting part of this. Initially about 1/2 of the reservoir leaked out. As you can see in the pic, nowhere near that amount is spilled under the reservoir. Last night I topped it up and waited so I could pinpoint the leak...but it seems to have stopped itself. I checked all around the vehicle, and there is no other leak. Beats me where that much fluid went, other than slowly getting absorbed into the topcoat.
Oh, after I got over the initial shock, I did wipe off the topcoat, and it appears the primer is unaffected. The purple is completely absorbed into the color/clear topcoat.
This is a complete restoration. Not a drop of 3/4 has been anywhere near the car for 10 months. All seals and rubber is new. OK, here goes a try at a picture:
Now here is an interesting part of this. Initially about 1/2 of the reservoir leaked out. As you can see in the pic, nowhere near that amount is spilled under the reservoir. Last night I topped it up and waited so I could pinpoint the leak...but it seems to have stopped itself. I checked all around the vehicle, and there is no other leak. Beats me where that much fluid went, other than slowly getting absorbed into the topcoat.
Oh, after I got over the initial shock, I did wipe off the topcoat, and it appears the primer is unaffected. The purple is completely absorbed into the color/clear topcoat.
OP
CJD
Yoda
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Well, I totally disassembled the reservoir and sand blasted it before repainting with black primer. It was reassembled dry, with a new neoprene washer for the clutch tube. The short feed lines to the master cylinders were bead blasted and blown clean for several minutes. No chance of any fluid left, but there is a slim possiblity of a stray glass bead or two. I filled the reservoir with the outlets capped and let it sit overnight to check for leaks...then intalled it and bled everything down.
Really, those are the only items that held the fluid prior to the leak. If a clean start is possible, then this was it. It did sit for 2 weeks leaking before I discovered it yesterday.
It has to come down to the PPG I used. All I can even think is that I sprayed it in 60 degree weather...colder than I usually spray...but still within specs. What it amounts to, though, is the silicone is definitely BETTER than glycol fluid...but it is possible some paint will be affected by it. Should've used Glasurit!
Really, those are the only items that held the fluid prior to the leak. If a clean start is possible, then this was it. It did sit for 2 weeks leaking before I discovered it yesterday.
It has to come down to the PPG I used. All I can even think is that I sprayed it in 60 degree weather...colder than I usually spray...but still within specs. What it amounts to, though, is the silicone is definitely BETTER than glycol fluid...but it is possible some paint will be affected by it. Should've used Glasurit!
OP
CJD
Yoda
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There is absolutely no DOT 3/4 anywhere in this system. I promise guys.
The PPG clear is DCU2002. Unless someone has experience otherwise, I have to say that this particular clear coat is softened by DOT5. I'll bring it up with PPG when I get the chance...although I am sure this just goes down as a learning experience. My lesson is I will never trust any brake fluids around paint...
The PPG clear is DCU2002. Unless someone has experience otherwise, I have to say that this particular clear coat is softened by DOT5. I'll bring it up with PPG when I get the chance...although I am sure this just goes down as a learning experience. My lesson is I will never trust any brake fluids around paint...
Scott_Hower
Luke Skywalker
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My theory...
The threaded hole on the bulkhead is the culptit. Maybe the fluid got wicked up by the threads between the primer and the topcoat somehow?
The threaded hole on the bulkhead is the culptit. Maybe the fluid got wicked up by the threads between the primer and the topcoat somehow?
OP
CJD
Yoda
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Could be?!? Here's the latest...the doggone leak fixed itself...after ruining the paint, of course! I topped the reservoir up the night I found the damage, and have been waiting to find the leak. It's a week and not a drop more has leaked. I think Murphy is haning out in my garage!
angelfj1
Yoda
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CJD said:
What's the latest?
As much as I hope you are right, it's unlikely that the leak has healed itself. When you have the connection apart next time, look very carefully at the flares at the ends of the rigid lines. We did my 3A lines in 100% SS, and found that it was very easy to work harden the material when flaring. This can cause minute fractures in the material at the flare. The best way to avoid this is to anneal the material and use a new, good quality flaring tool.
Good luck
OP
CJD
Yoda
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Well, the latest is another week and not a drop has leaked...beats me!?!
I did talk to the PPG man. His only response was that he didn't know any brake fluid was easy on paint. Another customer at the time informed him that the Harley drivers actually use the DOT5 on the painted engine parts because the silicone shines for a long time. All the PPG guy could say is that maybe the clear did not catalyze properly.
That is a possibility. I mix and let catalyze for 30 minutes. Maybe in cooler temps I need to allow an hour or more...at least I will in the future.
The bad spot is now almost completely covered by the washer bottle and the wiper motor. I may not even bother to re-spray, as I'm sure it will happen again in the future...Murphy being Murphy!
I did talk to the PPG man. His only response was that he didn't know any brake fluid was easy on paint. Another customer at the time informed him that the Harley drivers actually use the DOT5 on the painted engine parts because the silicone shines for a long time. All the PPG guy could say is that maybe the clear did not catalyze properly.
That is a possibility. I mix and let catalyze for 30 minutes. Maybe in cooler temps I need to allow an hour or more...at least I will in the future.
The bad spot is now almost completely covered by the washer bottle and the wiper motor. I may not even bother to re-spray, as I'm sure it will happen again in the future...Murphy being Murphy!
HerronScott
Darth Vader
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Very strange. Glad that it hasn't leaked any more.
Scott
Scott