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Door Glass

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

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64BJ8. I'm assuming I'm not the first to meantion this. But it's pretty hard to roll up the driver and passenger windows.
I have cleaned and greased the entire remote control assembly and window channels in the door.

I've taken both vent window assemblys out, cleaned them. I brought them and both windows to a glass shop. We worked together to remove the black frame from the bottom and side of the windows. We installed new nylon door glass guides and reinstalled. Made sure that the metal frames were bent to match the glass, for a tight snug fit.

He says the glass curve is not exactly the same curve as the vent window channel. He said maybe the after market glass is off a bit. He can not find any vendor for Healey glass. Moss sells the same one I currently have, which has printed on the glass: UROglass-starglass-E9-43R-000471

It would appear I need to bend the vent track to match the glass. The track is consistant in width, with just a little rubbing. It seems I need to put more curve in the unit.

Yikes. How to do that without kinking, marking or making it worse. Suggestions? Or should I just work out more untill I (look like "Johnny Bravo" pictured on the left) don't need two hands to crank it. "Whoa Mama"
 
Well Roger, here is a suggestion. Try shiming the bottom edge of that track inside the door you may attain a compromise where it will slide easier.--Keoke?
 
I had no problem with the Moss window. Two things though.Be sure you place the bottom attachment in the CENTER of the glass. Don't bend the chrome frame it will creck and rust. If the felt on the door is too tight to the glass it might make it harder to move the window (and watch for the screws there, they can scratch the new glass)
 
Yes, when attaching the top rail/arm rest, it seems like PO's have used bigger/longer screws than original. Actually the hole for the screws have probably enlarged or rusted a bit and a new/bigger/longer screw is substituted. Well, that longer screw will reach the window glass when you roll the window up and down and dig a gouge into the glass. Ask me how I know this. Therefore it is imperative to use really short screws, especially at the rear of the door where the glass comes closest to the top rail screws.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Be sure you place the bottom attachment in the CENTER of the glass.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi TH. Not sure what your refering to as the bottom attachment. Would that be the open track rail that is spot welled to the glass surround rail? This is an orginal piece. The bottom rail can only go in one place, for it gets riveted to the side rail. Being it's not adjustable, the attachment is not either. So it stays where it is, right? Are we speaking of the same piece?
 
Roger,
The center metal piece on the bottom of the window that accepts the end of the regulating arm, is not permenantly attached to the bottom metal channel below the glass. It can be moved to the desired position and then " hammered " on with a plastic or rubber hammer. I had to put a thick washer (for it's small diameter) between the metal window track and the door surface on the door latch side of the door in order to close the gap for the window to go up and down without cocking to the side and becoming hard to move. I suppose that you could also get that clearance too tight and also cause the window to be hard to move. Stick a strong light inside the door and then look down to see the clearance between your new nylon pieces and the metal channel. If it is too wide, shim it with the right sized washer. If it is too tight, remove it from the door and try forming the tabs where the screws fit, in order to open up the clearance between the nylon pieces and the metal channel. It was a trial and error process but
you need to be able to see what it is doing while you are winding it up and down.... You can get a little adjustment out of the vent window side by loosening the bottom mounting screws and pushing it hard in one direction or the other to the limit of play in the holes. Try moving it to one extreme and tighten, then check the window operation and adjust the door latch side window track as required. If that is worse. MOve the vent window side to the other extreme and recheck the door latch side again. You may find the sweet spot after a hour or so.... I bought my glass from VB.
 
Does anyone know what type of material is used to attach the actual door glass to the metal channel or frame. I removed mine, and it appears to be a rubber material, but perhaps a thick two sided adhesive tape? Similarly, what attaches the regulator arm to this metal window frame?


Thank you,

Andrew
 
Hi Andrew,
The material used to attach the glass to the frame is either a cork or rubber/cork type of material. Check with your local automotive glass installation place. It comes in rolls.

The automotive glass place I used, used silicone.

The regulator arm has a small free flowing wheel on the end of it. It slides into the small track on the bottom of the window frame. Maybe your window frame is missing that track?
Roger
 
Andrew,
When I mounted my door glass into the frame, I tried to use the product that our usual supplier sells for this purpose but I had trouble getting the glass to seat into the frame with this stuff. It tore easily. I don't know if it is the same stuff as a local auto glass shop uses or not....
Thanks to our own Anthony777, I used a piece of an old wire wheel rim band which is exactly the same rubber that inner tubes are made from. Once I generously soaked this rubber with oil, I was able to snuggly seat the glass into the frame. Neither of my side windows has given the slightest hint of moving or becoming loose. If you have any old inner tubes or rim bands, just use a piece of it. You can trim off the excess with a sharp knife after the glass is seated into the metal frame. It will save you a little money and do a much better job than the stuff that our suppliers sell for this purpose.
Ed
 
The correct stuff to use is called Everseal. If you use motor oil to lube the seal it then swells for a tight fit.

https://www.allglassparts.com/product/1139533693

I had problems with the Moss glazing strip as it was too thick for my glass and channel. The thinner Everseal should work properly. You should be able to find this type of glazing rubber at an older well-stocked window installation outfit.

Cheers,
John
 
Well at last ED, I been trying to figure out where you folks was putting them rubber innertube bits. Thanks for the Explanation.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Ausmhly -

If there is a slight variation in the curvature of the glass, it will make no difference in the difficutly of the window to go up or down. Do not change the curvature of your window channel - this is not your problem.

The problem will be with the chanel width itself and the nylon guides interfering with the channel that's been crimped for some reason.

I suspect that your problem is not the chrome front window channel, but the hidden channel in the back of the door.

This hidden window channel, for some reason, gets bent up in some cars (accidents, etc.,) and then never gets fixed. I would take this channel out of the door and run a dowel or some sort of metal implement to spread the channel open slightly so that the window guide will go up and down this channel freely.

Good Luck
 
healeynut-

Thank you. All information here is helpful.
This was an old post of mine, and I did fine and fixed my problem. My fix was to tweak the front channel. For it was twisted a little bit. Who knows how that happened in it's adventures till now.

I will say though, that with all the figuring out how to get things to work smoothly, I have spent more time on getting the windows to roll up and down smoothly and with a lot less effort. A lot of back engineering and problem solving. Thanks to all the help here, I got to where I am happy with it.
Cheers, Roger
 
Keoke said:
Well at last ED, I been trying to figure out where you folks was putting them rubber innertube bits. Thanks for the Explanation.---Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
Click to expand...
in the voice of singer etta james - aahhhat lahaaast!!!!!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Roll up windows in the doors?? Ya all are going soft. especially Roger with his radio,cup holder,and that geo whatjama callit that tells you where your at. Who knows ,I may get to that kinda stuff if I could ever get my car outa the garage and drive the darn thing! Bob
 
Hey hey billy bobby, decafe.
Now I see a little light at the end of the tunnel. So gosh darn it, I'm adding those Healey... not available at that time; accessories. And for good reason, cup holder in a sports car, man what are you thinkin!
Ah yes, that geo wahtjmacalit accessory that says in that oh so sexy female voice...Dude you are soooo lost! Roger
 
BlueRidge2 said:
Roll up windows in the doors?? Ya all are going soft. especially Roger with his radio,cup holder,and that geo whatjama callit that tells you where your at. Who knows ,I may get to that kinda stuff if I could ever get my car outa the garage and drive the darn thing! Bob
Click to expand...
blueridge, ya beein a bit rough on my pal roger dont ya think? hes a good guy! besides i wouldnt give a rats eyeball if someone wanted to put a jac-oozy in their back seat.sozeach his own! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
Alright 7777's you just be cool cuz Blueridge2 be a friend of mine an I just might send "Gudo" after you!--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
Keoke said:
Alright 7777's you just be cool cuz Blueridge2 be a friend of mine an I just might send Gudo after you!--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
Click to expand...
keoke, go ahead "guido" be my brother in law! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
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