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Dizzy turned to far - hitting generator/tach gear

jaegzie

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after timing the BE and getting it running(1275), I wanted to hook up the tach, mechanical with the original tach, the diaphragm thing on the top of the disty where the vacuum line connects is turned too far over and is hitting the gear on the back of the generator.

I have two different style of disty caps, both position disty in the same position. What I mean is one cap faces the wires 90 degrees in comparion to the diaphragm and one lines them up with the diagraphm. I should be able by changing the where the wires are in the caps change the angle the disty sits correct.

Currently looking at the cap it is 43c12 with 4 and 2 being the higher ones. If i change the pattern to 31c24 would that enable the disty to be turned back 90 degrees? Can I even do this or is there something else I can do to get the disty turned ot of the way.

TIA,
Mike
 
how about a top entry cap, I have not used one of those side entry caps in decades.
 
The cap really shouldnt change anything, but i do have a couple new top entry caps, just never used them.


as far as timing goes to make sure I understand this correctly and can answer my own question here. When the #1 piston is at TDC, the rotor can only face one way in the dizzy correct? Then the outside of the dizzy can spin from there, setting the timing into the cap, the rotor should be about to fire #1 cylinder in the cap. this would make it possible to set the dizzy in 4 different directions depending on the location of the wires in the cap as long as the same firing order is in the cap. Which would mean as long as the order goes 1243 I can #1 in any position in the cap as long as the order is correct.
 
Well, yes and no. The rotor can face toward any plug but then the wires need changed so the proper one fires when it should.

After rereading your post three times, I think you got it.

May I suggest that it sounds like you have the dizzy drive 180 degrees out and have turned the dizzy its self to adjust for it.
 
that could very well be, I thought I had it in the right because i had the vavle cover off to make sure I was on the right stroke, but I may have it out 180 degrees, that would almost make sense, because the four other cars that run all are fairly similar in wherre the dizzy is set. I will check it out a little more this weekend.

Thanks for the reply Jack, Ill search and make sure the dizzy is in properly.
 
I think Jack's got it--all you have to do is lift out the drive, turn it the way you want the distributor to be turned, and drop it back in. Then the thing will be timed properly with the distributor in a different position.

I'm going by memory here, always dangerous, but I think there is no problem in doing that.
 
A simple summary of the above- (I think):
1/ pull off the distributor cap
2/ loosen (but don't remove) the distributor
3/ rotate the distributor 90 degrees so that it is in the position you want
4/ loosen all 4 plug wires in the cap and place the cap over the dist as it was before you turned it
5/ pull out the wires from the cap (keeping them stationary)
6/ turn the cap to match the dist as it is now
7/ plug the wires into the new locations in the cap (you did hold them stationary- right?)
8/ re-do the timing for accuracy
9/ drive

Bill
 
That should work.

I've noticed that something similar was done with my Bugeye when it was restored. Doesn't matter how the distributor is oriented, or where the wires come out of the cap, as long as the firing order and timing are right.
 
Thanks for all of the replies, The dizzy was 180 out, I finally got it put in right, I thought I followed my book fairly well and had TDC but aparently not. I took the wires out and reorientated them so now it starts and runs like a champ finally.

No more real progress this weekend only put in a new thermostat and gasket. My wife is at training for work this week, so i should get some quality time with the car this week.
 
This thread has been confusing for me to follow, but that sometimes doesn't take much anyway.

This is how it works on my TR6 and from reading the repair manual it seems to also be the way it works on my '74 Midget. Since I have a fresh and never fired up rebuild I may have to deal with this. So, is the following even close to correct?

The position of the rotor when the #1 cyl is at TDC and valves #1 and #2 are closed ultimately determines the position of the dizzy body.

The rotor shaft has an offset tab and can only engage the drive gear in one position. The position of the rotor under those conditions is further determined by the orientation of the dizzy drive gear.

So, to change the dizzy orientation requires either moving the position of the wires in the cap, which can only provide 90 degree increments, or pulling the drive gear and rotating it before reinserting it to engage the gears, which gives more possible positioning.
 
Yep, pull the drive gear and install correctly and all is well. Not a big job at all, maybe 10 min all together.
 
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