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TR4/4A Distributor Vacuum Manifold Hard Line

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G

ghawk16

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Can someone confirm something for me? The hard line that goes from the vacuum manifold on the distributor to the bottom carbs, how does the hard line plug into the vacuum manifold. Currently mine is flared a little so it doesn't insert into the hole in the manifold. When I screw the female union on to the manifold it bottoms out and I can then push and pull a millimeter or two on the hard line so it's not set nor is it sealed. How is the hard line supposed to go into that manifold and should it be an air tight fitting? Thanks

And of course my water drain tap on the side of the block that I bought from VB in 2015 is leaking along with my original heater valve (that one is my fault). Sooooo, going to have to drain the coolant to swap those out with new ones.
 
Hi Gary,

I've been pulling out boxes for eventual restoration of CT16696L. I bought an NOS hard line from Moss back in the 80s; you can take a look at it here. I think there should be a brass union that screws into the front manifold to fit the male fitting, but I don't have that part on hand. Of course, there could have been have been changes along the way. TR4 Vac adv line.jpg TR4 Vac adv line_Carb end.jpg TR4 vac advance line_Carb end.jpg

Jeff
 
Not original but I just use a small piece of rubber tubing about an inch long that stretches over both.
 
TRopic6 said:
Hi Gary,

I've been pulling out boxes for eventual restoration of CT16696L. I bought an NOS hard line from Moss back in the 80s; you can take a look at it here. I think there should be a brass union that screws into the front manifold to fit the male fitting, but I don't have that part on hand. Of course, there could have been have been changes along the way. View attachment 50981 View attachment 50980 View attachment 50979

Jeff
Click to expand...

Thank you Jeff. That clears it up. It seems the piece flare at the end of the pipe that goes into the vacuum unit has...well...gone away. May have to go Richard's route below and use rubber hose unless I can find one.
 
I think it's just a 1/8 in compression ferrule, available at a hardware or auto supply. Tom
 
TomMull said:
I think it's just a 1/8 in compression ferrule, available at a hardware or auto supply. Tom
Click to expand...

I hope so! Just put in an order at Moss and didn't get it. Going to go to Orchard or Lowes today and see what they have. Thanks again for everyone's help. Once I get it running I'll have another question regarding horns. They are always on when the battery is connected. I suspect a ground but I double and triple checked the wiring and don't see it. I'll save that for later. First things first! Get. Car. Running!
 
I think there is power to the horns all the time. The circuit is completed and the horn blows when the ground is connected through the horn button. I would suspect that the ground wire from the button is shorted somewhere.
Tom
 
TomMull said:
I think there is power to the horns all the time. The circuit is completed and the horn blows when the ground is connected through the horn button. I would suspect that the ground wire from the button is shorted somewhere.
Tom
Click to expand...

Yeah, I thought the same thing so I looked at the wire connecting the metal portion of the steering column and didn't see it there. It's a new harness, but I'm wondering if putting the horns in they got grounded somehow? There is also a black ground wire under one of the two bolts on the passenger side horn. I just disconnected them for now and will whip out the voltmeter this weekend. See if I can find where it's grounding out.
 
Gary,
Most of my horn problems have been caused by the electrical parts in the top of the steering column. Namely the brass ring that sits below the steering wheel coming in contact with the steering wheel or some other ground.
Charley
 
charleyf said:
Gary,
Most of my horn problems have been caused by the electrical parts in the top of the steering column. Namely the brass ring that sits below the steering wheel coming in contact with the steering wheel or some other ground.
Charley
Click to expand...

I checked the ground there and it wasn't touching. But...I think it does have something to do with that brass ring as I damaged it and had to do a "fix". So we will see.
 
I would try to obtain a little more clearance between the steering wheel and the upper outer column by lengthening the shaft slightly at the slip joint inside the engine bay.
 
malbaby said:
I would try to obtain a little more clearance between the steering wheel and the upper outer column by lengthening the shaft slightly at the slip joint inside the engine bay.
Click to expand...

Well, funny thing...steering wheel isn't even mounted! I'll dive into it after I get this whole engine running thing taken care of. Once thing at a time. Just scared the crap out of my dad and I when we went to put the power cable on the battery! HAHA
 
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