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Tips
Tips

Distributor Timing

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ltcrainman

Freshman Member
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OK folks a true novice here.

Distributor popped out of the block as it had not been properly tightened by the previous owner I suppose. I cleaned it and replaced the points & condenser. Now I need to put it back in and lock it down. I need very simple instructions on how to do this. Pictures would be nice.

Car is a '69 MK IV with a 1275 and Lucas Distributor. Here are photos before I replaced points and all.
69AHMK4 - Distributor 04.jpg69AHMK4 - Distributor 05.jpg

Thanks in advance for the assist.

Ray
 
The dizzy should only go in "one way". The drive dog on its bottom and the mating drive gear have an offset slot to prevent putting it in the "wrong way".

That said, putting the dizzy in is only part of what is required. You need to static time the distributor. Rather than go into a long explanation here, please see my online storage space. Near the bottom of the page linked below you will see a PDF that discusses how to static time your engine.
https://www.sites.google.com/site/purlawson/home/files

After you have the static timing set you can drive it as is or use a timing light to dial in the dynamic timing.

As for the dizzy clamp, most have two "hold down" bolts. Those are typically left untouched. There will be a longer horizontal bolt that pinches the clamp to the distributor body to keep the dizzy down and prevent rotation. Tighten those fasteners AFTER working with the static timing and be careful to not bump the distributor in the process.
 
This is very good advice from Doug, however, if you haven't touched the engine or moved the car in gear it should <should> be OK - I might drop in the distributor, hook up the wires (in correct order, don't ask me why that matter :grin:smile: and see what happens. It's a none interference engine so you can't break anything - it just won't start. worth a try.
 
I got the impression that Ray may have moved the distributor. You may be able to eyeball the location you put the distributor in and get the engine to start. However, static timing with points only takes moments so I prefer that approach. To each his own.
 
You did not say how it "slipped' out of the block. I cannot tell from your picture. Did it pop out of the holding bracket or did the holding bracket come loose form the block??
If the bracket is still attached the dizzy should just drop back into the slot one way It should be almost where it started allowing for the slop in the bolt holes. It should even start and run. Yes you should check the static timing and then double check the timing while running.
If the dizzy came out of the clamp you need to start with a fresh static timing as mentioned above.
Note, if it came out of the clamp it may be due to over tightening of the pinch bolt by previous owner. Over tightening has a tendency to force the dizzy put of the clamp.
 
I was driving it around the neighborhood and, after stopping at a stop sign, let out the clutch and it sort of jumped then the engine shut down. Popped hood, looked inside, and dizzy was up out of the locking collar. Towed it back to the house - fortunately only a few hundred meters.

I did not know you could over-tighten the collar though. This had a metal collar with a single square headed bolt that pulls the two sides together.

Keep the tips coming - thios is all good stuff.

Ray
 
I searched online for pictures of damaged Lucas distributor bases where the clamp grips. I only found two. Both are on the MG Experience website. My previous attempts to post links to/from that website have not worked. Regardless, maybe you can see the pictures in the thread itself.

MG Experience Link to Thread

Picture Link
Broken_base_2.jpg

The horizontal clamping bolt you describe for your car is the typical type. Loosen it to turn the dizzy housing. Once in the correct place (see the static timing PDF) tighten the horizontal bolt to clamp on the dizzy housing. Since the distributor popped out of the block and the engine quit running, go through the steps in my PDF that will explain finding #1 on its firing stroke. It won't take long to get back on the road. Post back with your questions.
 
I do not trust the clamp to hold the dizzy in place. I have them walk out the same as you did. I added a small piece of Aluminum, maybe 3/8 wide X 1.5 inch to hold the dizzy in place. The piece is bolted tot he front bolt for the clamp to the block and sits on the edge of the dizzy. you can be as simple of fancy as you want with the bar, I even radiused the inside edge to fit the curve of the dizzy.
When making adjustments you need to loosen the clamp and the front bolt to turn the dizzy. No big deal and the dizzy will never pop out.
 
Ray
Just took these two shots, I hope they show everything clearlyIMG_0251.JPGIMG_0250.JPG
 
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