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TR2/3/3A Dipper switch position

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DavidApp

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I have installed the dipper switch as it seems it should go but I feel the wires are exposed to damage. Should the bracket be flipped over so the switch is mounted on the flat surface?
The tag was my way od identifying the parts of the loome

David


dipper switch.jpg
 
Yes, I believe the bracket goes the other way.
It should have a hole, so the body of the switch goes inside and just the button sticks out.
But, there were several different types of switches and several different brackets. So its possible yours doesn't have the hole for the switch to stick through.
 
Here's mine:
P1010048.jpg
 
I have exactly the same problem! TS 60014. The later switch can only mount as shown, due to fixed bolts on the body, and the wires are very exposed. Earlier switches, like Tom's, seem much smarter, and are also available whereas the later switches and mount do not seem to be on the market. Is there a solution to this?
My photos are not so good so I will not post them. Help!!!!
 
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I think the switch,bracket and installation are correct for a post 60K car.
If you route the wires as shown in my photo, it is impossible to step on them.
The switch itself doesn't compress enough and the slanted top & bottom
edges of the bracket complete the "shield' of the wires.
Dipper.jpgFrank
 
The changes in the mounting bracket must have been cost saving ideas. No hole less work.

Frank
Thank you.
I think that will work. I may try to tie the wires back to the switch mounting screw with a tie-wrap.

David
 
My car, 60723 still had the hole. I cannot find a pic of the switch installed (black on black doesn’t take pics well), but I seem to remember fiddling around with it for some time before I got it correct. David, does yours not have a large hole at all?
 
Hello John

No large hole just 2 small mounting holes for the switch.

Looking at TRF website drawings there seem to be at least 3 types of switch and the same number of brackets.

David
 
I second Frank’s picture that is the way the later ones are as odd as it seems. There is a kinda interesting deal/story about the early ones like in Tom’s picture. The rivet is in the center and that is where my foot would rub and because the rivet sits high and the canister is spring loaded if the rivet head wears down the last click will let all guts shoot out and shut the lights off-- maybe that is why they changed. Just a guess.
 
SP53. My first car was a Morris Minor which used basically the same switch. I recall taking my younger sister for a drive one night and joking with her how the headlights could be on high beam or low beam...high beam, low beam... high beam, low beam. Suddenly the whole thing went sproing past our respective ears, ending up in the back seat somewhere. Gave me some pleasure to find the same switch in my TR when I got it.
 
LionelJrudd said:
SP53. My first car was a Morris Minor which used basically the same switch. I recall taking my younger sister for a drive one night and joking with her how the headlights could be on high beam or low beam...high beam, low beam... high beam, low beam. Suddenly the whole thing went sproing past our respective ears, ending up in the back seat somewhere. Gave me some pleasure to find the same switch in my TR when I got it.
Click to expand...

In between all those choices is always the "no beam", which always gets you sucking seat cushion!?!
 
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