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Differential and rear suspension

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The new outrigger from Moss which is on my car is just a hollow tube. I really don't believe that any reinforcement here is required. there are many street rods running around out there that don't even have boxed frames execpt maybe where things are mounted. Up to this point I don't think that there was any reinforcement in the original factory set up. What you see in my "before" photo I believe is an earlier repair fabrication done by a P.O. You'll notice that it looks like about 6" was grafted on to replace just part of the outrigger previously. That was back when full restorations might not have been required but rust still took it's toll. My front right outrigger also has what appears to be about a 4" grafted piece put on it, but still appears very solid. I do not intend to replace it. I was more concerned with the back ones because they handle the tork and power and alignment of the axle. Please remember I am building a solid driver for my retirement not a show piece. Don't intend to take it to Barrett Jackson, don't intend to sell it, and when I'm gone I don't care what someone wants to pay for it. I could make it better, just don't think it is worth it. Again, don't get me wrong, I have nothing against building a total high end high quality restoration, that is just not my aim here.
 
I made some progress today on the frame. Both outriggers and the rear portion of the frame is removed and will be replaced. The front and rear spring perches will be replaced also. Here's the rear frame removed.

DSC00602.jpg


Here's the view of the trunk floor removed.
DSC00612.jpg


And here's what is left of the frame at the crucifix.
DSC00615.jpg
 
What is the simplest way to break the taper on the shock absorber mounts? My tapered ball joint separator is too large.
 
Aren't you supposed to be having a holiday?
grin.gif
I would suggest leaving the front end alone until you get the rear sorted out. Line everything up, weld it, put it back on the ground and see where you stand. If you are slightly off, your doors may not shut anymore.
 
Hello neilert, which taper are you talking about on the shock absorber mount?
How are you going to join up the new rear chassis main rail to the original chassis rail?

Regards,

bundyrum.
 
The taper is on the shock link assembly bolt, mating with the shock arm. I ended up hitting it with a brass hammer to break the taper, but there has to be a better method, like a small tuning fork type ball joint separator.

I am planning on plug welding Copperweld coated 1/4x2" steel bars on the inside of the existing frame tube vertical sides extending 6" inside and 6" outside the existing tubes. The new tubes will slip over the assembly with predrilled holes for plug welding them in.

I'd like to jig weld the new assembly with the rear spring perches in place, then square it up and weld the assembly to the car.

Any advice is appreciated.
 
I have a Miller Dynasty 200 DX tig, which should handle it, but 1/8" thick steel bar would probably work just fine to bridge the splice.
 
Hello neilert, I would like ti think that either the people at Jule chassis or Kilmartins may be of assistance to you here.

I don't know if this is overkill but this is how I would do it if it were my car.
I would have rectangular tubes made up to slip inside your frame rails and then weld it all together.
Also I would not weld the rails vertically but at an angle and this is where it can get confusing.
For example on say the outside face of one rail the angle would extend forward from the top of the rail to the bottom. Then on the inside face the angle would extend rearward from the top of the rail to the bottom.
For the rail on the other side of the car I would reverse the angles.
It makes for some interesting angles and welds but it should give you the best chance of maintaining some strength in the rails.
As far as dimentions of the angles I would say that the rail is 4" high so I would extend 8" along.
So from a point on the top edge of the rail transferred forward 8" then transferred down to the bottom edge of the rail. Draw a line between the 2 points and this will give you the angle.
The rectangular tubes (for inside the rails) I would have made up would extend someway past the length of the joint I am describing here
Yes I know it sounds confusing but if I could draw it for you I would but I don't know how to do that here. I normally prefer drawings myself so trying to describe this is a test for me too.
Yes plug welding would be a good idea.
And I would also think that 1/8" thick material would be all that's necessary. 1/4" thick material would be an overkill for sure. Too much material doesn't do any good.

Best of luck this is a very interesting exercise.

bundyrum.
 
The rear leaf spring brackets need replaced, and I am considering replacing them with solid brackets that have the original profile but won't bend or fill with mud and grease.
Other than the added weight, do you see any problems with these? Here's a photo of the bracket. I haven't drilled and reamed for the round tube and bushing yet, or drilled for the grease fitting.

rearspringperch004.jpg
 
Did you make those parts Neil, that's cool. I wish I had a mill in my garage. :cryin: When I made one-o-them brackets, I did it in 1/8". The face that is flat against the outrigger got a big hole in it for a plug weld. Then I welded both sides and the bottom to the outrigger. The thing I'm thinking about with that solid piece is you can only put a perimeter bead on it. And the heat you'll need to penetrate the block may distort the outrigger. You may be a better welder than me, so it may not be an issue for you.
 
BUNDYRUM said:
Jule chassis or Kilmartins may be of assistance to you here.

bundyrum.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice bundyrum. I haven't spoken to either directly, but have read the Jule website. There is a lot of good information there. They have a tip to find out whether the frame rails are solid by hitting with a ball peen hammer and listening to the sound, which I found very helpful. ("Healthy metal should “ring”; thin sections produce a dull thug" Jule Enterprises) I used this technique to find where to cut my frame for replacement sections.
 
GregW said:
The face that is flat against the outrigger got a big hole in it for a plug weld. Then I welded both sides and the bottom to the outrigger.
Click to expand...

This is for the rear bracket that sits on top of the rear 2x3 tube (I think you are referring to the front bracket). The original has a perimeter weld, but I was also concerned about how much heat it would take to fuse it. I'll probably take these to a welding shop if they seem like a good idea.

Ideally, I'd like to figure out an assembly at the spring brackets that allow adjustability for ride height. It looks like a common problem to have the springs sag over time causing the car to sit out of level. We should put our heads together and figure this out. Maybe the brackets are not the place to put the height adjustment.

Yes, I'm fortunate to have machine shop equipment. I started machining during the MGA restoration, and now we design and machine prototypes for furniture and lighting factories.
 
neilert said:
This is for the rear bracket that sits on top of the rear 2x3 tube (I think you are referring to the front bracket).
Click to expand...
Yes, I was referring to the front bracket, which is the one you made. The rear bracket has a 90° cutout in it so it sits on the top and backside of the rear cross member.
 
This one is the rear one without the 90 degree support welded on. If you look closely at the rear bracket it is made with a 12GA bent plate, a round tube, and another bent plate welded as a corbel support.
 
neilert said:
I have a Miller Dynasty 200 DX tig, which should handle it, but 1/8" thick steel bar would probably work just fine to bridge the splice.
Click to expand...
Nice machine :smile:

dx200_101.jpg
 
neilert said:
Randy, your's is nicer! I don't have the tigrunner cooling unit. Mine is just air cooled.
Click to expand...
Water cooling is kind of a must for aluminum and magnesium welding, but makes it a little less portable.

If I was doing the same frame splicing that your project entails, I'd probably use my Millermatic 175 MIG welder.
 
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