Differential and rear suspension

[Cutlass]

I agree with Vette. There are serious issues with those things that are readily visible. What lurks where you can't see gives me great concern.

 

[Cutlass]

Thought you might like to see this to make you feel better. This is what the front of my frame rails looked like after I peeled off the awful repairs.

 

[Cutlass]

Same front rail, a while later. It can be done.

 

[Cutlass]

Sorry. This is the correct frame rail.

 

[neilert]

Great looking work Cutlass! Does anyone know where to find the tapered rear portion of the main rail? I also need advice on how to weld it in, where the cut should be, etc.

 

[GregW]

Well Neil, I haven't tackled your specific situation, so this is just my opinion. I'd cut the frame rails midway through the outriggers (the green line in the diagram). That might give the best support from the crucifix, plus the outrigger would give support also (see the blue blobs for the welded areas). As for rear frame pieces, I didn't see any in the Kilmartin catalog. If your interested in originality, the toughest part is the seam that runs along the bottom. For the prices I see, I'd make my own rail and not worry about the seam.

 

[neilert]

the toughest part is the seam that runs along the bottom. For the prices I see, I'd make my own rail and not worry about the seam.

I think I will make my own. There isn't a steel tube with the correct section dimension to start with is there? Would you brake a 16 GA sheet into a 3 sided channel, then weld in the tapered top portion, or just continuous weld the 4 sides of the tapered tube?

 

[neilert]

In you case, because there appears to be serve rust damage as well as accident damage and possibly poor previous work, I would suggest that you take all mechanicals and attached panels off the car then sand blast of some sort of media blast the frame and what not to see what you really have.

Vette, Yes- The more I look on the frame, the more I find, but the major problems seem isolated to the outriggers and rear portion of the frame, which I will replace. I want to structurally fix the obvious, inhibit future rust, and drive the car often. Maybe someday when my children are older I'll install the Kilmartin frame rather than patch the original.

 

[GregW]

I wouldn't be surprised if there is a stock tube in the right size, 4"x3" I believe. Here is a diagram of what I'd probably do. I would also go with a little thicker wall, probably 14 ga.

 

[neilert]

Great solution. I'll check for a 14GA tube tomorrow. Thank you for all of the fabrication help.

 

[big6]

Don't waste your time with the old rusty frame. Buy a Jule frame...

 

[Cutlass]

Since you will have the frame open, I would suggest inserting a stiffener into each side of the frame, and plug welding at appropriate intervals. The stiffener can be angle iron, which of course is heavy, but remember, you've lost structural integrity in the entire frame. This stiffener will also reinforce the joint of the new work you are doing.

 

[Cutlass]

Another suggestion. Note here that I added gussets to the rear outriggers and to the cruciform. It's easy to do, and adds overall strength.

 

[GregW]

Hi Cutlass,
Is it the angle of the photo, or is your frame bent?

 

[Cutlass]

That's just the usual improper jacking damage. I looked at all those places as I was fixing the frame. They could be pulled out, but I didn't deem it worth the effort. Posting those pictures is like posing naked, I know, but what the heck? Before painting, I did have the chassis, with body panels on and engine and running gear attached, put on a frame machine and had all adjustments made to align everything. Then I disassembled everything and had the chassis painted. Finally I reassembled everything and had the whole car fitted and painted.

 

[neilert]

Don't waste your time with the old rusty frame. Buy a Jule frame...

The Jule frame looks very good, but I'm still going to attempt repairs. For me this is partly why I don't purchased restored cars, and learn a bit on each project. I read their website articles this evening, and there is a lot of valuable information about the chassis characteristics.

 

[BUNDYRUM]

Hello Neil, It looks as though you're really getting into this project and seem to be going about it very well. With all the great help you're getting from the people here and your willingness to give it a go it's going to turn out just fine. I'd be very careful about how you use the LPS3. Make sure you wear a respirator and do it in a very well ventilated space. If you get this stuff on your skin it will be absorbed and ultimately end up in your liver and after that nothing much can be done. We used to use LPS3 in the aircraft maintenance business but it has been replaced with another chemical spray that is worse for you but does a better job of preventing corrosion.

Good luck,

bundyrum

 

[neilert]

I'd be very careful about how you use the LPS3. Make sure you wear a respirator and do it in a very well ventilated space.

bundyrum

Thanks for the heads up on LPS safety. I'll use the LPS with caution.

 

[neilert]

GregW wrote:
I recently used some de-ruster from Blue Lightning. On surface rust, it almost washes the rust away. They also have a rust inhibitor that will keep rust from coming back for maybe 6 months to a year (they claim). Until you can paint.

The owner from Blue Lightning called today and he spent 20 minutes with me advising about how to use their products, and other available products. I haven't even used the product yet, but I'm already impressed. I'll report back how everything works. Thanks again Greg for the reference- I had never heard of the company.

 

[GregW]

That's not fair man. <span style="font-weight: bold">I</span> didn't get any phone call.