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Tips
Tips

Degree the cam....name those tools game.

"as you have already relieved the thickness and the internal radius of the retainer it might be a problem of the squareness of the cam to block face or the cam slot has been machined slightly angled to the center line of the cam."

Mike: I am extremely reluctant to draw such conclusion, but your comment re cam
slot machined slightly angled rings in my ears. It's one of those: "It's as if,"
thoughts that contintues to surface in my head, as I look at this thing.

Those darned cams have got to be machined so precisely (understated) that I just
have a hard time going there, you know? This is not a redo cam; it's brand new.

Whatever it is that is haunting me, it's nothing less than a ghost, because
it cannot be seen with the naked eye.

Call in The Ghost Busters!

Thanks for your input. I still think the cam retainer could be lapped down some
more without causing a problem, and I'll try to even the thing out side to side.
 
Randall, how the dickens did you take a new wife
without me/us knowing about it?

My gosh! Congratulations are in order!

I am truly impressed and appreciative that you would even
seriously entertain the thought of coming to help me
enough to write about it. I know our distances make this
impracticable.

I'd really like to be able to assist a TR festivity,
but Boy Scouts of America seem to get in the way a
bunch. I actually hope to wean myself away making room
for newer dads to take over. This has to happen as I
hope to retire my level of involvement (12 years now
in the trenches of active group).

Anyway, I am extremely happy for you and your new
wife. Have a great vacation and I am sure we will all
miss you while you're away.

Best to ya,
 
Truth be known: If I have missed suggestions such as use of Dykler or maybe a micrometer or such,
it's because of my ignorance, and because of all the
things I could consider, I look to something I
understand best first....which, in actuality, is
very little. Gotta laugh, right?

I place myself here to force the learning curve.
So it goes. I did ask the parts store that sold me
the micrometer if they had Dykel and they said no.

Today is the day I will find the stuff and learn how
to use it. Seems most appropiate.

Another Ghost Buster tool. Where was that script
prayer I used to exorcise the demons outta ole Crypty?
That one seemd to work.
 
Oh, and just to let you all know how thorough I am,
I read Bill's comments to think organic.

So, I'm buying some organic potting mix to place around
my block in order to nurture the concept.

Sorry, Bill. Couldn't help myself.....and on the serious
side, your rally of encouragement is much appreciated,
and just what I think I need right now.

If I have to, I'll hand it over to a mechanic, but
that would mean I learn nothing. Not to mention,
sorry mechanics here, but I've paid many to do something
I had to redo myself at greater expense later. Just
my experience.
 
Can we revist one point? Someone, I thought, told
me from a shop manual that the cam retainer bolts
are to be tightened to 20-22 lbs.

Can we double-check this? I cannot seem to find
reference to that amount of torque. My read on things
says snug 'em.

Going that poundage torque has been problematic for
me. If I go less, all is well. Maybe it would be
helpful to me if we verified the info as a double-check.
 
Oddly, its not in the factory TR6 manual torque settings page.

All it says to do is to "tighten" them in the assembly process, but that seems a bit to vague for a critical component for me.

The cam gear spec is 24ft. lbs., so 20-22 would seem to fall in line with the other 5/16" UNF bolt specs.
 
Yeah, Paul, my dilema. Makes me wonder if I'm not
chasing my tail. Hey, if snug with Loctite works,
then I'm there.

Seems to be what I'm reading. No other reference to
torque poundage that I can find. Could it be I'm
looking for the four-leaf clover?

Are we extrapolating from one torque setting number
to "sounds most reasonable to use" on another, when it
just may not be so?

Seems I remember being rather shocked at how easy these
bolts came off, now that I think about it; but my son's
hand was on that wrench.
 
So I ordered new cam retainer; bolts; washers along with
some other anticipated parts....oh, yeah, the spacers
in .004 and .006 that go behind the crank timing gear.

Will look at it again when the new parts come in. At this
pace, you'll be putting yours together sooner than I do
mine, Paul.
 
With lockwashers ("splitwashers") and 22~24 ft/lb you should be FINE, Den. IMO, Locktite would be okay but a bit of overkill.
 
Have you tried putting the original cam back in and see if you have the same problem? you did say it was a new cam. you could also do a dimensional check and compare the old cam with the new one and see if anything just jumps out at you measurment wise
 
Have you tried turning it over and bolting up. You may also want to try it from the "other" side. Not sure if that is a bad idea though.

I just put my BPNW cam in and all wnet well with it. Now I get to time it!!!! Oh joy.

Anybody know where you can get a degree wheel online that would fit the Spit?
 
billspit said:
Have you tried turning it over and bolting up. You may also want to try it from the "other" side. Not sure if that is a bad idea though.

I just put my BPNW cam in and all wnet well with it. Now I get to time it!!!! Oh joy.

Anybody know where you can get a degree wheel online that would fit the Spit?


Yeah. Actually, I got a couple of the little devils on line here from our
fellow members. Got 'em sitting in the e-mail folder right now.
If you PM me with your e-mail address, I'll forward a copy to ya.
Also tried flipping it over. Made things worse.

What torque setting were you able to acheive on your cam retainer bolts?
 
hondo402000 said:
Have you tried putting the original cam back in and see if you have the same problem? you did say it was a new cam. you could also do a dimensional check and compare the old cam with the new one and see if anything just jumps out at you measurment wise

Compared the two eyeball and didn't notice anything glaring.
 
2wrench said:
billspit said:
Have you tried turning it over and bolting up. You may also want to try it from the "other" side. Not sure if that is a bad idea though.

I just put my BPNW cam in and all wnet well with it. Now I get to time it!!!! Oh joy.

Anybody know where you can get a degree wheel online that would fit the Spit?


Yeah. Actually, I got a couple of the little devils on line here from our
fellow members. Got 'em sitting in the e-mail folder right now.
If you PM me with your e-mail address, I'll forward a copy to ya.
Also tried flipping it over. Made things worse.

What torque setting were you able to acheive on your cam retainer bolts?

PM sent for the degree wheel.

I snugged them up tight with new lock washers and did not use a torque wrench. I'm gussing the butt wrench (similar to a butt dyno) says it around 20 ft lbs. I'll check it propoerly once I get ready to time the cam.
 
As hondo402000 suggests, if you have the old cam try installing that -that way, if it turns alright it looks like the problem is with the new cam if does the same could be the cam bearings but as I said ,having relieved the retainer alredy,you can get to the point that you alter the retainer to compensate for another problem and your other components will be thrown out of alignment.One of my experiences -I was preparing a race engine for a customer once and on receiving the cam ,(from a very reputable manufacturer,new not reprofiled)comparing one to the other found that on No1 cylinder the cam lobes had been machined the opposite way to the others ie exhaust valve opening when the inlet should,couldn't believe my eyes!RARE but shows they are not infallable
 
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