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DEAD PEDAL for a BT7

petnatcar

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I got tired of my foot flopping around in the footwell so I fabricated this support pedal.

Use .080" aluminum sheet stock to make the pedal and 1 or 2 self tapping screws to attach it to the kick panel.
You'll need to drill through the kick panel into the metal of the footwell side panel.

A good metal shop can make this in 30 minutes or less using the attached full size pattern. (Based on 8.5 x 11 paper)

Cut and stick 2 strips of 3M Non-Skid material on the surface of the pedal.

This mod will leave 1 or 2 holes in the kick panel but the support you derive when cornering should override that drawback.

DEAD PEDAL.jpg non skid.jpg Dead Pedal-Plans .jpg
 
I screwed it next to the little vent flap on the cross member. You can just see the pigtail coming out of the firewall and curving up to the right past the vent.
I have to use my hand to push it but I hardly ever drive the car at night anymore and the dead pedal is still worth the inconvenience.
 
I screwed it next to the little vent flap on the cross member. You can just see the pigtail coming out of the firewall and curving up to the right past the vent.
I have to use my hand to push it but I hardly ever drive the car at night anymore and the dead pedal is still worth the inconvenience.
I like the idea of a dead pedal and I hate the location of the dimmer switch. It seems like a bad idea to have your left foot below the pedals because it is hard to get them back into position in a hurry.

Could you relocate the dimmer switch to the upper portion of the deal pedal? That would seem like an ideal spot.
 
Hi Glenn,
My foot is not below the pedals but on the same plane as them. I've been thinking about incorporating the dimmer switch into the top part of the pedal but it isn't a priority.
 
I really disliked the placement of the high beam switch in my BJ8 and wanted a dead pedal so I designed one and printed it on my 3D printer using a carbon-fiber infused plastic. It is very solid, uses the factory screw holes for the dimmer switch to mount the pedal, and relocates the high-beam switch to the top of the pedal where it is still convenient but out of the way.

I think it turned out really well. If you would be interested in having one of these, PM me.

pedal.jpgpedal1.jpgpedal3.jpgpedal4.jpgpedal5.jpg
 
That looks great, Glenn! 3D printing has fascinating potential, and it's interesting to see a Healey part made that way.
Thanks. It is a real game changer when you can envision something, create a virtual model, and then click a button and presto (5 hours later in this case) you have the exact thing you imagined.

I am making a few other Healey improvements that I will share when they are complete. If anyone has ideas let me know.
 
I really disliked the placement of the high beam switch in my BJ8 and wanted a dead pedal so I designed one and printed it on my 3D printer using a carbon-fiber infused plastic. It is very solid, uses the factory screw holes for the dimmer switch to mount the pedal, and relocates the high-beam switch to the top of the pedal where it is still convenient but out of the way.

I think it turned out really well. If you would be interested in having one of these, PM me.

View attachment 46635View attachment 46636View attachment 46637View attachment 46638View attachment 46639

Very nice! Simple solution moving the switch up out of the area of the dead pedal.

Note - it requires the BJ8 dip switch and mounting bracket & wouldn't fit earlier cars as-is.
 
My well used and hard pressed dead pedal, it's a must in any vintage racing Healey.

Dead Pedal.jpg
 
Very nice! Simple solution moving the switch up out of the area of the dead pedal.

Note - it requires the BJ8 dip switch and mounting bracket & wouldn't fit earlier cars as-is.

Thanks for the note. I will have to study some other cars to come up with solutions for them.
 
Steve--

You said: "Note - it requires the BJ8 dip switch and mounting bracket & wouldn't fit earlier cars as-is"

I am interested in Glenn's pedal for my car and wonder if you can enlarge on your statement. What is different about the 100 that would make it so--in the Moss catalogue the same part number is given for all cars, 100 to BJ8:

Austin-Healey 100, 3000 Electrical System 542-130 SWITCH, headlamp dip
 
Very nice! Simple solution moving the switch up out of the area of the dead pedal.

Note - it requires the BJ8 dip switch and mounting bracket & wouldn't fit earlier cars as-is.

The two brackets and switches are different:


BJ8 Bracket
dip1.JPG


BN1-BJ7 Bracket
switchb.jpg


BJ8 Switch

bj8sw.JPG


BN1-BJ7 Switch

sw23.JPG
 
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