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Dash Veneer questions

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Norton47

Jedi Warrior
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I pulled my dash last night to remove the heater core so I can have it boiled out and inspected while I have the engine out.
Looking over the dash, and after stripping a section, I see I will need to reveneer it.
Has anyone just laid a new veneer over the existing and trimmed the gauge holes out?
Or should one have the old veneer removed, perhaps using a non hand held surface plane and then the veneer installed.

Thanks
 
i'm interested in the discussion...

would sure cut down on the work and tools to just reveneer. could use a tiny router to trim the edges.
 
Hey Flinkly did you get another GT6?
 
The veneer is cracked and lifting at the edges of the cracks and of course the finish is cracked also. The glove box door has an actual piece of the veneer missing about a match stick wide and a 1/2 inch long.
After talking with DNK I am going to over lay a veneer and route out the gauge holes. Luckily I already have a Dremel tool.
 
I used bondo to fix all my holes and bad cracks
 
I wouldnt put new veneer over old veneer, thats like putting new paint over peeling paint. Having just gone through this process within the last 6 months I can tell you its not hard to get the old veneer off, you can sand the old veneer off easily. or heat the surface with a propane torch and the old veneer will peel off. sand the substrate, apply the new veneer, carefully using a dremel tool grind out the gauge holes watch the direction of the grain when sanding so you dont chip the veneer, and then clear coat. I used a two part clear, several coats wet sand inbetween until the desired luster is achieved, it is do able just dont get in a hurry. Veneers are usually applied with a vacuum press, I have a food saver system which is a vacuum sealer for food but I used it to vacuum the veneer onto the plywood dash with veneer glue, piece of cake
 
The small and bigger sanding disk and I used some kind of cutter piece to get it close.
 
Not to hijack this thread, but I am going to fit a wooden dash to my TR4. I have obtained an old dash with the varnish peeling off. Any recommendations on refinishing it?
 
Don't "RE" finish it. Overlay it. Totally different.
 
Refinish means to strip the finish off and put new varnish, poly,or what have you...If the finish is that bad it will still look like it did before but newer and brighter.It will probably be disappointing for all the work.
Over lay means new veneer on top.Like mine
 
I just finished up a project on my TR3, where I covered the glovebox door with a walnut burl veneer. I know, I know, it's not original, but since I'm going with a wood steering wheel, I figured it would be a nice touch.

I found a supplier, veenersupplies.com (I think) who seemed to have a real big selection in terms of available sizes and wood types. Plus, they have photos of what your buying too.

I just laid out the door on the veneer, traced and cut it out with a grind off wheel with my Dremel tool. Cut it so that it is about 1/16 too big around the edges. Used basic contact cement to adhere it to the door face. My door was small enough that I could clamp it up in my vice with some C-clamps too keep it tight. Sandwich using wastewood so you don't leave clamp marks. I imagine you could do the same with a bunch of c-clamps and plywood. I did notice that using the contact cement that the veneer bubbled in a few places, which wasn't a big deal, you just need to take roller and reset it.

Next I sanded the edges down flush with a fine sandpaper. Don't use a dremel here because the veneer is only 1/42" thick and that will probably cause more damage. You'll see that sandpaper will take it down fast enough.

Next, I then took glossy polycrylic, thinned it by about 50% with water and began applying it to the veneer. The reason I thinned it was so that the grains would become fully embedded and clogged with the poly, and so the poly would not just merely just sit on top of the wood. You will see that the wood will suck up the thinned poly. I used a foam brush for this stage, and very lightly sanded between coats. After you see the grains completely clogged with poly, then start spraying with a spray can of glossy poly. I put about 15 thinned coats on and 5 spray coats.

After it has completely dried, I buffed and waxed with automotive wax, then cut out the key lock hole. Make cutting out the holes the last thing you do, I think you will find it easier than having to work around the holes. To cut out the hole, I used a tiny little Dremel router bit that is available. It worked great, and turned out looking fine.
 
If going with a burl veneer, be very careful if using a Dremel. There is no grain to give it consistent strength and it will shatter very easily.
I used a knife on the damp veneer and followed up with a light sand paper after it dried.
 
Hondo
Could you elaborate on the vacuum processor? I have access to a vacuum source. What type bag did you use? What type of glue, you mention veneer glue, what brand or web site maybe?
Were you able to bag it and just use the bag or was a mesh or something else inside the bag required to get an even clamping pressure? Seems like with boat building a vinyl tube with holes was placed between the surface to be clamped and the bag. This tube was hooked to the vacuum pump and the air evacuated, if I remember right the bag could just be plastic wrapped over the edge and taped down.
Any other hints would be welcome.
Thanks
 
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