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Damper prior to visit to Damper Dudes

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Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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This was a topic of discussion here at one time, so I decided to post what i was doing and what these dampers look like off of the engine and close up.

This is the damper that I took from the engine that I'm having machined soon. No one on the east coast rebuilds these, so I spoke to Damper Dudes in CA and Monday it will be on it's way.

Note the cracks in the rubber. After 33 years and a lot of oil, it's no wonder. I'm rebuilding this as there are no new available with the timing numbers engraved.

Very nice customer oriented people to deal with. 24 hour turnaround at no extra cost, actually it's SOP.

About $100 plus shipping back for a TR6 damper.

I'll post after pics as well.

https://www.damperdudes.net/
 
You've caught them at the quiet period or something - mine took a wee bit longer than 24 hours to turn round...
 
Alan,

I'm in no rush, so it only make sense that it will come back right away. Isn't that always the way it seems to go?
 
When I sent mine out, it was gone for one week. Three days to get thee, one day there and three days back. Hardly even noticed it was gone.
 
Brent,

That "rubber" acts a cushion between the two machined metal surfaces to absorb or "dampen" the vibrations caused by the combustion in an internal combustion engine.

These units are called either "harmonic balancers" for their balancing affect or "harmonic or vibration dampers" for the vibration dampening affect. They do both very well.

When the rubber layer that actually bonds the two together deteriorates, it can allow the outer to move from it's designated alignment with the inner and cause the timing marks to be incorrect in relation to the actual top dead center indicator for the #1 piston.

That is the minor, but annoying issue as many people insist that they have set their timing to the proper spec, but the car won't run properly. They have set it properly, but they don't realize that the marks have moved. A slight movement, say of 1/8" to 1/4" can cause a big deal in the timing of the engine.

Then there is the major failure, which rarely occurs, when the rubber joint fails and the two metal units separate. This is more apt to happen on a high revving engine than most street cars, so don't be too concerned.
 
Mickey,

I could have saved a lot of typing had I waited a few minutes to see that post from you.

Thanks, it's a good explanation.
 
Brosky said:
Mickey,

I could have saved a lot of typing had I waited a few minutes to see that post from you.

Thanks, it's a good explanation.
Click to expand...

And I thought I was the only one who got to "practice" on the keyboard!
 
Making sure that the timing marks are in the correct position is only the minor task that the rubber bit there needs to do. More importantly it is the "active" component in the damper. Vibrations in the crankshaft will cause the inner part of the damper to vibrate, the outer ring resists movement do to the high centrifugal force on it. The rubber bit acts as an intermediary and absorbs the vibrations. When it is working it converts the vibration to heat. When the rubber becomes old and hard, it no longer absorb vibrations.
 
I did say the timing was minor, but only finished the explanation in "laymen's" terms.

I never realized the heat factor, which now that you've explained it, makes a lot of sense. I can see now that the heat, along with the oil contamination, would provide a path to wear out the damper.
 
You know ,I wish this info was out a few years ago I think I powder coated mine!
 
I wonder if it baked the oil out of the rubber?

EDIT: Just in case anyone was wondering, that was a JOKE! Please do not try to do that.

EDIT: And this is a legitimate question/statement.

I would think that if you did any major damage, it would have shown up by now?
 
Maybe if it had been started but as long as it sits in the garage then it is purr..fect /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

Oh well, back to the garage to work on the *8's suspension and I'll sneak up on the 6 and look at the damper.
 
Has anyone asked or the question answered yet, will they put the thing back together in exactly the same locations to one another or will the timing marks be off and have to recalibrate. Since I will have mine off real soon (ya'll know why), thinking of sending mine off as well.
 
Bill,

They do nothing but dampers all day long. I asked and they have the factory specs and know exactly where to align the two metal components in conjunction with the key way in the crankshaft.

The only way that it would be off when you get it back, is if yours was off when you sent it for reasons shown above in my pictures.

I spoke to Ron at DD and he does want the damper shipped with the two pins in it as well.
 
Brosky said:
Bill,

They do nothing but dampers all day long. I asked and they have the factory specs and know exactly where to align the two metal components in conjunction with the key way in the crankshaft.

The only way that it would be off when you get it back, is if yours was off when you sent it for reasons shown above in my pictures.

I spoke to Ron at DD and he does want the damper shipped with the two pins in it as well.
Click to expand...


Actually just spoke to Damper Dudes dude and asked him that very same question (not that I didn't trust you, Paul!) and he said they have the factory specs for all dampers and they will put it back to where it belongs. Boy, that should be really fun retiming my engine! What if mine slipped and all this time I was timing by marks and not by ear?
 
Bill,

I think that mine has slipped on my current engine. My base timing is set at 16BTDC at 900RPM with the retard unit disconnected. Any less advance than that and it bucks and surges on light throttle. It shows my total advance to be at about 38 degrees at 2,800RPM and I know that is too high.

I wouldn't touch the distributor if I were you when you get it back. I'd just make note of where your new readings are and they just may differ a bit from your old timing settings. The same car isn't going to run any better or worse with the timing marks either at 16 or 12 because a degree damper was replaced. It will just probably be back at the factory settings with the new damper.

I've never used the timing marks on any car to be more than a starting reference for tuning. Many roadside adjustments to get the cars set just right.

And that is a subject for another three full threads of debate, so I'll close my comments on that right here and now.
 
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