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TR4/4A CV Axles TR4A

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KVH

KVH

Obi Wan
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Merry Christmas to all, and all the Best for the New Year!

I'll soon be installing my new CV Axles from Goodparts.

I've had a load of good advice about the process from the folks right here.

Before I start, next week, if anyone who recently has installed them has any further words of advice, I'm all ears.

Thanks.
 
No knowledge whatsoever, but share what you learn in the install and driving with the new things with us, I am sure there are more curious monkeys out thare than me on this subject
 
I installed them in my Rat-co frame. The installation is quite easy. I would suggest checking & or replacing the 6 flange studs while everything is apart. Goodparts is a great source. I have not driven my car yet but it rolls great (haha)
 
Are you referring to the studs in the trailing arm, or just the studs that hold the CVs to the differential?

Richard suggested I not worry about the trailing arm studs if they are all intact and aren't stripped. I'm ready to replace, re-drill and use KeenSerts when and if the time comes.

Why aren't you driving and testing out those new axles?
 
Yes, I was talking about the trailing arm studs. I agree with Richard about the studs. I removed mine & inspected, replaced with red loctite & torqued properly with no problem. Just saying, my car was always in FLA with no corrosion.

My car is a longterm resotration that still has the body off. Maybe some day.....
 
If you're going to the trouble and expense of installing the GP CVJs why not take the time and small added expense to<span style="text-decoration: underline"> redo all of the TA studs with Rick Patton's TA Repair kit?</span> These studs are known to strip and are a fairly common fail point. I can't tell you how many of the guys in 6-Pack have done this repair and raved about how easy the kit made it. Like Paul Rego <span style="text-decoration: underline">I've done both the TA Repair and the GP CVJs on my 6.</span> I highly recommend doing both.
 
I noticed the the rolling dyno HP numbers for TR6s are well below published BHP figures common from British and other cars from the period, but maybe even a little moreso for the 6s, does anyone know do the U joints contribute to driveline friction loses to RWHP, and 2nd would the CV joints be better? (ie less HP loss)
 
RG does say "more horsepower to the road" in his advertisement.
 
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