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TR4/4A CV Axles TR4A

KVH

Darth Vader
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Merry Christmas to all, and all the Best for the New Year!

I'll soon be installing my new CV Axles from Goodparts.

I've had a load of good advice about the process from the folks right here.

Before I start, next week, if anyone who recently has installed them has any further words of advice, I'm all ears.

Thanks.
 

glemon

Yoda
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No knowledge whatsoever, but share what you learn in the install and driving with the new things with us, I am sure there are more curious monkeys out thare than me on this subject
 

nissanite

Senior Member
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I installed them in my Rat-co frame. The installation is quite easy. I would suggest checking & or replacing the 6 flange studs while everything is apart. Goodparts is a great source. I have not driven my car yet but it rolls great (haha)
 
OP
KVH

KVH

Darth Vader
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Are you referring to the studs in the trailing arm, or just the studs that hold the CVs to the differential?

Richard suggested I not worry about the trailing arm studs if they are all intact and aren't stripped. I'm ready to replace, re-drill and use KeenSerts when and if the time comes.

Why aren't you driving and testing out those new axles?
 

nissanite

Senior Member
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Yes, I was talking about the trailing arm studs. I agree with Richard about the studs. I removed mine & inspected, replaced with red loctite & torqued properly with no problem. Just saying, my car was always in FLA with no corrosion.

My car is a longterm resotration that still has the body off. Maybe some day.....
 

BobbyD

Jedi Knight
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If you're going to the trouble and expense of installing the GP CVJs why not take the time and small added expense to<span style="text-decoration: underline"> redo all of the TA studs with Rick Patton's TA Repair kit?</span> These studs are known to strip and are a fairly common fail point. I can't tell you how many of the guys in 6-Pack have done this repair and raved about how easy the kit made it. Like Paul Rego <span style="text-decoration: underline">I've done both the TA Repair and the GP CVJs on my 6.</span> I highly recommend doing both.
 

glemon

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I noticed the the rolling dyno HP numbers for TR6s are well below published BHP figures common from British and other cars from the period, but maybe even a little moreso for the 6s, does anyone know do the U joints contribute to driveline friction loses to RWHP, and 2nd would the CV joints be better? (ie less HP loss)
 

poolboy

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RG does say "more horsepower to the road" in his advertisement.
 
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