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Cutting the car for a dual MC setup hints/tricks?

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Bruce_B

Bruce_B

Jedi Warrior
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Car is a 59 BE. I've got the pedalbox setup from a dual cylinder car and Iknow I've got to cut my car to make it fit.

Is there a fixed reference point I can use on my current set up? By this I mean can the back of the new pedalbox be pressed against the back of the old pedalbox opening and then a line scribed around that for cutting?

Thanks....
 
When I converted my '65, I marked a reference line in-line with the original pedal placement,or in line with the bolt that they swing from. With the original pedal set removed, measure the cut-out and mark a center line both horizontally and vertically on the tin (top of foot well). Then find the center, again horizontally and vertically on the dual cylinder box. (note - make sure the legs on the box are square, use a stick to hold them in place and for marking the vertical center line. You should be able to match the center index marks and pedal bolt on the new box with the reference marks you have made on the tin. I masked the tin with 2" masking tape to mark on, since the new box is larger than the original.
Other things I found: I couldn't find a blanking plate for the hole, so I had to make one. You will have to move the wiper motor about 2". The old grommets for the wiper motor will likely need to be replaced. If it's a dual line brake master and clutch, you will need a different proportioning valve. I ran some angle steel reinforcement under the new box to keep it from flexing, and to add mounting support for the bolts. A dremal tool with a fiberglass cutting wheel works great for cutting out the sheet metal.
Luck on your project, Ron
 
So that's all you did Donn, that small cut.
Would you be able to post measurements on that? I see that the cut starts at the front right corner ( as seen looking at the photo). How far to the right is the cut and how far back does it go?



thanks....
 
The picture with measurements is here . I cut out to the side 2.5 cm and up 9 cm. The width and length were just enough for the pedal box opening. It cut through the reinforcement underneath, and I don't think I will weld an edge on it. Overall the strength of the new housing will hold the top footwell plate straight.

I haven't drilled mounting holes yet, but they should be no problem. I will probably put a single piece of 1 mm - 20 ga. reinforcement underneath, under the mounting bolts on the left side.

The cover plate I made covers the entire area under the new master cylinders. This is for aesthetics mor than function. It only needs to cover the opening, but with the little more width and you can't see the edges. It though does not cover where the pedals go through. That is covered with the pedal-cover.

The pedal pivot bolt just touches the reinforcement on the right side, but a small bend in that worked fine.
 
Donn,

Thanks for the information and the great picture. Time to get out that grinding wheel and do the change.
 
I can't quite picture it in my mind, but won't you have interference issues between the brake lines and the wiper motor assembly?
 
I had to move my wiper motor over, I believe it was about 1/2"

Pat
 
Ahh.. Makes sense. In the US we are used to seeing that late model pedal box with dual circuit MC. Only '67 did we have the single.
 
That does make sense, since I have the double.


Pat
 
The two cylinder system with single circuit brakes on the Frogeye.

P1070144s.jpg
 
That does look nice and neat. Does anyone have a picture they can post of their setup with a dual line brake setup?
 
Can I ask a simple question, why not resleeve to a 3/4 Master than cutting up the car? Sure sounds a lot easier and cleaner.
 
Jim,

im going to a 3mc setup on a modified later spridget pedal box. Thats why im looking at cutting the firewall/footbox. I think others like having the separate circuits for the brakes and the clutch...safety reasons perhaps?
 
Branson,
I have a dual Tilton mc setup on a modified Bugeye pedal box and I have a resleeved original mc from Sierra as well. I like the 3/4" size and think its an improvement over the original, but its not on the car yet. I'll be using a Datsun 5 speed and disc brakes. The other idea I toyed with is the pedal set up from Tilton using 3 mc and a balance bar. The assemblies are about $200 on eBay and a lot of the racing teams sell used ones for less. You still have to do some cutting, but not too much.
Rut
https://www.tiltonracing.com/sites/...loads/files/Tilton2012 - Pedal Assemblies.pdf
 
I can see the cutting if changing type of MC used but going from stock to stock later vintage. I just have trouble cutting a stock BE up. But again, your car, make yourself happy.
 
Jim,
thats the same delimma I faced and I couldn't cut my Bugeye for very little gain. In fact, my modified pedal set up with Tilton MCs works well, but the 3/4" original I have should also. If I was building a race car it would be different, but decent Bugeyes are getting harder to find and I don't want to look back and realize I cut one up unnecessarily. I'm all about doing what you want with your own car, but I don't want to make any permanent changes on mine. I have all of the original parts for the next owner that will go with the car when I sell.
Rut
 
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