• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Crypt Car Ignites Successfully [kinda]

Share this page

Ok, Here we go!

Started the Crypt Car with not too much difficulty.
Let it warm up up choke not needed.

Turned the dizzy this way and that way with both
tiny pastic vaccuum tubes on the dizzy disconnected.

Finally got a reasonably constant 850 to 900 rpms.
Reconnected the plastic tubes and made minor adjustments
to hold the 85- to 900 rpms. Engine was running smoothly except for the loud valve tap. #1 or # 2 valve I think.
(wood broom handle method)

Oil pressure at 850 rpms about 55-60 psi. Oil pressure
at 2000 rpms constant75 psi.

I had the engine running perhaps 20 minutes.
Turned off the key and the engine kept running and
running and sputtering and shking all over. I had to
jump inside the empty cockpit and put the trans in
2nd gear to stop the engine.

So what have I accomplished today, if anything?
Any forward progress made?

thanks as always,

dale
 
Here is a final photo of the positon of the dizzy
when I turned the engine off. I got the decent,
fairly smooth idle by counter-clockwise rotation
of the dizzy as suggested by Bill. Vaccuum tubes
off during initial adjustment as suggested by Jeff.



dizzyrotate.jpg
 
#1 Medussa like distributor there Dale
#2 From your comment I will assume that the floor has now been repaired or were you standing ON the floor THRU the TR?
#3 when I saw the new thread title : "Crypt Car Ignites Successfully (kinda)" I thought that you had finally snapped over the weekend and lit her up... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
 
Yeah, it almost looks like he's off one position on the plug wires...not that it really matters if it's running.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
The best bet from here is to get the timing set with a light, so you know its correct. Also recheck the valve lash, as one valve being off can cause timing issues and run-on. From there, some basic carb adjustments will get it running sweeet!!!
 
Dale,

This is just for point of view considerations and I'm not sure you should do what I'm suggesting so wait for the final from the TR6 wire experts.

I was and am hoping Jeff will come on and tell Dale how to move the ignition wires over one position to the right on the distributor cap and then reset the distributor to parallel. But if it's running maybe it's best to leave it alone to get where it has to go. The valve tap noise has me more concerned if he left a push rod to loose it may bend before he gets it out of the garage.
 
Dale, look at your plug wires compared to mine. What looks different? Your distributor is setup either 180* off or completely wrong!
 
Re: Crypt Car Ignites Successfully [kinda] *DELETED*

Post deleted by DNK
 
1-5-3-6-2-4

Your #1 plug wire starts where my #3 plug wire is. How could that be?
 
Bill,

Looks almost 180 and a little bit which is why I thought it may need a little wire reposition job for now to get it where it needs to go.
 
Dale,

Bills right your firing order as we see it shown looks wrong. Might help if you pan up so we can see exactly where all your wires from the distributor to plugs are going.
 
He's on 1-5-3-6-2-4 but his #1 starts at #3.

Dale, when you set up your crank on TDC (while looking at your valve setup to verify),did you drop the geared distributor drive into the cam in the right groove? The drive dog slot should've been about parallel with the block, on the top side of the offset. I think it is possible to set it in wrong. Or, g_d forbid, the cam is set wrong. Then it is break-down-the-engine time.

How much is an airline ticket to PR?
 
I am 1,4,2,6,3,5

Started with #1 verified TDC.

Remember, I tagged everything including the
engine block before I removed the dizzy.

Every spark wire double tagged, the dizzy cap
tagged and the engine tagged. Plus photos.

I was able to confirm the firing and wire order
when I adjusted the valves. For me, #1 cylinder is one
closest to the radiator, up front. #6 is closest to the
firewall.

My dizzy cap will only fit on in one position.

The distributor will only slip into it's slot in one position. Cannot install it 180* off. Won't fit in the slot.

I just visually traced and verified 1,4,2,6,3,5
as my firing order.


d
slot.jpg
 
Dale the firing oder should be 1,5,3,6,2,4. Your post says you have 1,4,2,6,3,5. If you have a TR6 your firing order is out of sequence. Maybe you did a typo when you typed your post?
 
This is getting rather interesting. I'll be traveling tomorrow, but I'm going to try to log in from a remote to see what's happening here.

Dale, I don't know how you could have got it to run with that firing order, but I guess it might be possible, which could explain the rough idle and run on, but I dunno about that firing order.....

Also, I really think that you should get that tapping resolved before you go any further so that there is no bad surprise coming up in your future.
 
Back
Top