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Crypt Car Ignites Successfully [kinda]

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T

Tinster

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Houston, we have a launch!!

The Crypt Car ignites and runs for 10 minutes.

But first a few heartfelt thanks to all the folks who
made this event possible. Way too many people to mention
them all. But here are a few:

Jeff Palya for his magnificent carbs and intake manifold.

Dan and Mike Masters for the Power Block wire harness and
putting up with my ignorance during the six month install.

Jeff Schlemmer for his fantastic new distributor and
technical advice.

So many kind folks here at BCF offering technical advice
and encouragement. To name a few-Paul, TR6Bill, Doug, Harry,
Adrio, Craig from upsidedown land, Swift6, Jayhawk and so
many others.

The Crypt Cars (Kinda) very, very rough with rpm surging between 1100 and 1400. At least one loud valve tapping,
the engine literally shakes at lot. Strong smell of gasoline with no choke after warm up. Good, steady 75 psi oil at temperature.

Any advice on my next step? Carbs or timing?



launch.jpg
 
First the basics. We know that the plugs and ignition are set correctly, but have you put a timing light on the car to see where you are? That is very important, but it is really hard to tell accurately with idle up that fast.

That one loud valve tapping could be causing the rough idle. Check to make sure all are adjusted properly and locked down.

Are you sure that you have no vacuum leaks causing the idle to surge up and down? Spray around all hoses and lines with aerosol carb cleaner, when it goes up fix leak and start over.

Can you smooth the idle by moving the distributor one way or another? Either advancing or retarding may get you close and you can back the idle down to where its about 900RPM and running smoothly, then recheck timing and readjust idle. Yeah, it's a pain, but it's called tuning for a reason.

I'd start there and see what you come up with.

Oh and by the way, congratulations on a job well done.

You've come a long way, baby!!
 
Dale, I really feel that at this point your problems might be mechanical. Meaning, timing and valve settings. First off, I would set my valves if you haven't already. Respond on that point before we go any further.
 
I'm not sure about the earlier TR6's but shouldn't there be vent lines from the carbs to the vapor cannister and also tying into the vent on the valve cover?

I can't tell from the overhead view if there are open ports on the carbs. Probably not, but just a thought to be safe.
 
Bill: I adjusted the valves last weekend, most probably my
screw up about the tapping. I never did that item before
in my life.

Paul, in my model one hose goes from the valve cover to the air cleaner box. No canister in my year model.

I will attempt to rotate the dizzy a bit to smooth things out. I have no timing light, nor knowledge how to use one.

But we are getting there, YEAH!!

I just might have the "thru my windshield" TR6/palm tree
lined ocean highway photo by Christmas.

d
 
Dale, check the valves first, when engine is cold. Take the time to turn it over one cylinder at a time to insure that they are set correctly.

Then start it up and allow it to warm up. Move the distributor in the direction that produces the faster and more probable smoother idle and adjust idle speed down from there.
 
Paul, setting the valves is really easy. Just follow the procedure in your manual. I find it a lot easier to pull all the plugs and take the coil wire off the coil. You can use your starter to follow the sequence of setting your valves or a big pipe wrench pulling on your fan extension (that would be pulling towards you standing on the left side of the car, facing the engine. We don't want to go through that again.) Sometimes getting the starter to do most of the work and finishing up with the wrench. You can move the crank in the opposite direction for finite adjustments. There is a plateau where the springs won't move at all, somewhere in the middle of this is were you set the valves. Both intake and exhaust are the same. Specs in manual.

Valves way off with cause the engine to run extemely rough, even not at all. If you already set them, you might well be close or even right on. I just wasn't sure if you had addressed that.

You can adjust your timing without a light by rotating the dizzy and listening to the engine. Rotating it to your right (ever so slightly) will affect your idle. Since yours is an early TR, why not plug all the vacuum lines from you carbs to the dizzy (you can leave the two bellows open on the dizzy, without vacuum lines, they are just ornaments.) and rotate the dizzy counterclockwise. The engine will want to die on you with no advance. Just keep rotating past this point till it comes back to life. Your idle should drop to about 1000 at this point. Some adjustment will be necessary. This would be centrifugal advance, as opposed to vacuum advance. Both work.


Confused yet?


CAR IN NEUTRAL DURING ALL THESE PROCEDURES!
 
Thank you Bill, for a more explicit set of instructions. I knew if I was lazy enough someone would spell it out properly.
 
Dale,

Paul's on track - The timing light when you get one is really easy to use. It has three wire leads coming out of it, the one red lead clamps to the battery positive lead. - The one black lead clamps to the battery negative lead or ground and the one induction lead with the plastic funny looking clamp clamps to the outside of the ignition wire for plug wire #1. With the car running you point the light at that pointer thing attached to your motor block we lined up earlier for TDC for #1 cylinder. Then you squeeze the trigger of the timing light and a light pulses out of it lighting up the timing marks in relationship to the pointer and the sparking of #1 spark plug. You then turn the distributor while the car is still running and the light is still pulsing at the pointer until the pointer lines up with the timing mark at the pointer you want. Someone else gonna have to tell you what that mark is though I have a 3.

Have fun -
 
I'm so glad to hear its running! Congratualtions!!!

The tuning isn't the fun part, but its the most rewarding. If nothing else, you can probably get it running well enough to bring it to the closest shop to have the timing set and the carbs adjusted. You can turn the idle speed down a bit and turn the dizzy until it runs smoother. Leave the vacuum canister facing the battery connected (advance), but disconnect the other one (retard). That might improve performance a bit.
jeff /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
 
You can get a timing light for under $20, and it is worth its weight in gold for figuring out rough running.

As someone smart once said: 90 percent of carburetor tuning is ignition.
 
YEA DALE !!!
As far as " I just might have the "thru my windshield" TR6/palm tree lined ocean highway photo by Christmas."
you have already won "Photo From Above My Windshield"
Were you standing on the dash?
 
Air leaks?

Ok, since I'm totally stupid about such things as
air leaks.

Once I have the spray carb cleaner in hand,

1. where do I look for leaks.
2. How do I detect a leak?
3. How do I repair a leak?

thanks,

d
 
Stupid question No.3

I loosened the two bolts that secure the distributor
to the engine. With fairly strong hand pressure, I could
barely detect any rotational movement at all. Maybe
1/16" to 1/8" in either direction

I noticed a sort of clamping ring just above the two
mounting bolts. It appears torqued very tightly.
Is this the rotational adjustment mechanism for timing?

thanks aagain,

d
 
Tomster,

No, standing inside the empty cockpit.
I am still repairing interior damage left over
from the PO. so there are no seats, steering wheel,
seat belts, etc. I'm also tucking some of the new wires up under the dash area now that most things electrical
function. Strange, this whole 6 month electrical nightmare
started because I wanted a functional water temperature
gauge. I'm on my 3rd H2O temp gauge and 3rd sensing unit
and they do not function either.

Now that the Crypt Car looks like it might run,
I'll install one seat, seat belt and the steering wheel.

regards,

d
 
[ QUOTE ]
Stupid question No.3

I loosened the two bolts that secure the distributor
to the engine. With fairly strong hand pressure, I could
barely detect any rotational movement at all. Maybe
1/16" to 1/8" in either direction

I noticed a sort of clamping ring just above the two
mounting bolts. It appears torqued very tightly.
Is this the rotational adjustment mechanism for timing?

thanks aagain,

d

[/ QUOTE ]

Dale,
The two bolts that hold the dizzy down are for just that, keeping it secure. Do not try to adjust the timing by loosening these bolts. The dizzy will rotate when you loosen that one sideways nut that holds that clamp. That is the way you change your timing. I always loosen it so that it will move with moderate hand pressure rotating it. Too loose and you cannot hold a setting. It should be under a bit of friction. When you get the setting you want, then tighten the horizonal bolt on the clamp securely to hold your setting. Often, the tach cable will rub against the fuel pump. Not to worry, this is normal. May have to lift the cable a bit for the rotation to work.
 
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