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Crankshaft Starter Nut

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

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What is the purpose of the "ears" on the end of the crankshaft nut? Is ears the correct term?
Why do the ears on my 64 BJ8 look different from the photo Moss has?
Can I put a long steel rod though the slot on my nut to turn the engine over to find TDC, or will it brake those off.

1CCF0403-3F29-451F-BCE4-370EC9296B8C.jpegD7AB769D-8AFD-458A-B5EE-566AB11E9F8D.jpg
 
Those "ears" are for a manual starting handle. This basic engine was used on other BMC models, which may have had a provision for hand cranking. So, yes, you can use those for turning the engine over.
 
John Turney said:
Those "ears" are for a manual starting handle. This basic engine was used on other BMC models, which may have had a provision for hand cranking. So, yes, you can use those for turning the engine over.
Click to expand...

Thanks John.
Is there a starting handle tool?
The nut Moss sells looks like those safety nuts that a screw driver can screw on but can't screw off. Different from the one my car. Why is that?
 
No starting handle for a Healey. It would have to come through the radiator. If you look at the front of a Triumph TR2, TR3, or TR4, you would see an opening for a starting handle.

Mine is like the Moss one. The idea is that when the engine starts, it kicks the handle out so it doesn't spin you around, flapping you on the ground until you let go.

Why is yours different? Maybe they figured out that hand cranking wasn't happening anymore and you could now rotate the engine in both directions by hand (when out of the car).
 
Yeah, the original nut has long, hook-like tines that would actually be useful for catching the end of a hand-crank rod (if only the engine was installed in a car that provided access to it).

The replacement nuts, like the one pictured above, have abbreviated tines that I think are just for show. The benefit of the short/fake tines is you can remove/install the nut without lifting the engine (that is, it clears the front frame brace). With the original nut, the tines get in the way.
 
kozelding said:
The benefit of the short/fake tines is you can remove/install the nut without lifting the engine (that is, it clears the front frame brace). With the original nut, the tines get in the way.
Click to expand...

True that. Photo shows two dent in the frame brace from the two tines.
D7AB769D-8AFD-458A-B5EE-566AB11E9F8D.jpg
 
We've got the same style nut on some 4 cylinder Spridget engines; we had a 69 Citroen ID 19 back in the 70s with a similar nut and the magic extendable lever thingy for changing tires also functioned as a crank start. And, yeah, I used it a couple of times to start the engine back in the day with electrical problems and a low budget. Doug
 
I've hated that ugly nut forever, I finally kicked it to the curb....

Super Damper ARP Nut.jpg
 
Does anyone know the correct “crankshaft nut” size for a 1958 TR 3? The car has been sitting for 20+ years and I would like to see if the engine is seized-up. Planning to remove the spark plugs and add a little oil(?) to the cylinders before trying to turn over engine with a socket (size?) and extension/breaker bar. Thanks for any advice.
 
Marty V said:
Does anyone know the correct “crankshaft nut” size for a 1958 TR 3? The car has been sitting for 20+ years and I would like to see if the engine is seized-up. Planning to remove the spark plugs and add a little oil(?) to the cylinders before trying to turn over engine with a socket (size?) and extension/breaker bar. Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
Hi Marty, You're more than welcome to post your question here, but there's also a Triumph Forum where you are more likely to find folks familiar with your subject. Cheers.
 
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