Copper Drain Lines for BJ8 Carb/Intake Manifold

[Keoke]

Be careful here a lot of parts on these cars were steel copper plated.

Roger if the lines were not Z shaped you would incur vacuum leakage.

A P trap is not required here because it is not fuel trapped in the line like home plumbing it is the air loss created by the line's shape and length.

Yes Johnny,, you are correct about how and where the lines terminate requiring the bends.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Nitpick: these lines are steel not copper.

You might be right. I've only seen extrememly dirty lines with no visible color and the replacement "copper" lines that owners install themselves. I prefer to call it attention to detail and not nitpik.

 

[AUSMHLY]

Roger if the lines were not Z shaped you would incur vacuum leakage.

Yes Johnny,, you are correct about how and where the lines terminate requiring the bends.

Keoke or others, how do you tell if you have vacuum leakage from the two drain lines. Mine are both straight, so I should look into if I have a vacuum leakage.

I notice I do have a very small puddle of gas under each line when I pull the choke out to start the car for the first time. Is that a related issue of vacuum leakage?

 

[Keoke]

Roger if the lines were not Z shaped you would incur vacuum leakage.

Yes Johnny,, you are correct about how and where the lines terminate requiring the bends.

Keoke or others, how do you tell if you have vacuum leakage from the two drain lines. Mine are both straight,

Well I think Vac leakage at this point would be very similar to that caused by worn carb Shaft bushes.

The factory bent the lines rather than runing them straight down to insure the line length was adequate to minimise the possibility of a vacuum leak.

so I should look into if I have a vacuum leakage.

-Yes it would be a point to check if you do experience Vac leakage.

I notice I do have a very small puddle of gas under each line when I pull the choke out to start the car for the first time. Is that a related issue of vacuum leakage?

Here I would consider it related only because the fuel in the line acted upon by gravity would prevent air entry at this point.

-----------Keoke

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Roger if the lines were not Z shaped you would incur vacuum leakage.

Yes Johnny,, you are correct about how and where the lines terminate requiring the bends.

Keoke or others, how do you tell if you have vacuum leakage from the two drain lines. Mine are both straight,

Well I think Vac leakage at this point would be very similar to that caused by worn carb Shaft bushes.

The factory bent the lines rather than runing them straight down to insure the line length was adequate to minimise the possibility of a vacuum leak.

so I should look into if I have a vacuum leakage.

-Yes it would be a point to check if you do experience Vac leakage.

I notice I do have a very small puddle of gas under each line when I pull the choke out to start the car for the first time. Is that a related issue of vacuum leakage?

Here I would consider it related only because the fuel in the line acted upon by gravity would prevent air entry at this point.

-----------Keoke

AH Spares sent me this drawing today. I did respond with a few questions and I should hear back tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Keoke]

Well this drawing does not agree with the rear line routing shown on the included [Patric ] engine pictures, My info which tends to follow the pictures, came from a conversation with the late Geoff and some Healey type book that I do not recall the name of. However, it probably will work too---Keoke

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Well this drawing does not agree with the rear line routing shown on the included [Patrick ] engine pictures, My info which tends to follow the pictures, came from a conversation with the late Geoff and some Healey type book that I do not recall the name of. However, it probably will work too---Keoke

I am leaning towards the engine that Rich Chrysler did(the freshly painted one), as we all know this detail would have been something he would not overlook. I'll refrain from saying this is it until I hear back from AH Spares with answers to my questions. I also sent them the photos we have on this thread.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Well this drawing does not agree with the rear line routing shown on the included [Patrick ] engine pictures, My info which tends to follow the pictures, came from a conversation with the late Geoff and some Healey type book that I do not recall the name of. However, it probably will work too---Keoke

I am leaning towards the engine that Rich Chrysler did(the freshly painted one), as we all know this detail would have been something he would not overlook. I'll refrain from saying this is it until I hear back from AH Spares with answers to my questions. I also sent them the photos we have on this thread.

I heard back from AH Spares.

"The diagram I put together yesterday that Julie forwarded to you would be the way to do the pipes if your engine block no longer has the small brackets attached to the lip that the sump fits up to.

If your car does retain those little brackets then the 1st picture of the 3 you attached titled 1-may0701 is as factory fitted.

The bore of the pipes is so small that steel piping would not have been available, also as the pipes help to drain away mainly fuel/condensation then copper is not affected by the water."

Best Regards
Gary

 

[Keoke]

I am leaning towards the engine that Rich Chrysler did(the freshly painted one),



I tend to lean in that directions too.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Well this drawing does not agree with the rear line routing shown on the included [Patrick ] engine pictures, My info which tends to follow the pictures, came from a conversation with the late Geoff and some Healey type book that I do not recall the name of. However, it probably will work too---Keoke

I am leaning towards the engine that Rich Chrysler did(the freshly painted one), as we all know this detail would have been something he would not overlook. I'll refrain from saying this is it until I hear back from AH Spares with answers to my questions. I also sent them the photos we have on this thread.

I heard back from AH Spares.

"The diagram I put together yesterday that Julie forwarded to you would be the way to do the pipes if your engine block no longer has the small brackets attached to the lip that the sump fits up to.

If your car does retain those little brackets then the 1st picture of the 3 you attached titled 1-may0701 is as factory fitted.

The bore of the pipes is so small that steel piping would not have been available, also as the pipes help to drain away mainly fuel/condensation then copper is not affected by the water."

Best Regards
Gary

Just finished today. I will be pulling the lines back off to install the correct brass fittings for the Intake Manifold and for painting. Maybe I'll "polish" them and spray Eastwood Hi-Gloss clear? Once they're removed I'll tweak the bends too.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Well this drawing does not agree with the rear line routing shown on the included [Patrick ] engine pictures, My info which tends to follow the pictures, came from a conversation with the late Geoff and some Healey type book that I do not recall the name of. However, it probably will work too---Keoke

I am leaning towards the engine that Rich Chrysler did(the freshly painted one), as we all know this detail would have been something he would not overlook. I'll refrain from saying this is it until I hear back from AH Spares with answers to my questions. I also sent them the photos we have on this thread.

I heard back from AH Spares.

"The diagram I put together yesterday that Julie forwarded to you would be the way to do the pipes if your engine block no longer has the small brackets attached to the lip that the sump fits up to.

If your car does retain those little brackets then the 1st picture of the 3 you attached titled 1-may0701 is as factory fitted.

The bore of the pipes is so small that steel piping would not have been available, also as the pipes help to drain away mainly fuel/condensation then copper is not affected by the water."

Best Regards
Gary

Just finished today. I will be pulling the lines back off to install the correct brass fittings for the Intake Manifold and for painting. Maybe I'll "polish" them and spray Eastwood Hi-Gloss clear? Once they're removed I'll tweak the bends too.

Let me know if there's a particular area that another photo is needed? I'm taking them off tomorrow for about two days and then they go back on with carb Heatshield, etc. on and the lines will not easily photograph.