Cooling Article

[BobbyD]

Cross Post: For those of you not on the Triumph Mail List, the link https://www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html to this cooling article was posted by one of the List members. While the study was done on Sunbeams and focused on how to improve their cooling while at IDLE (these poor guys overheat after idling about 10 minutes) , it delivered some interesting & surprising results e.g. pushers worked best, less fat blades worked better then many thin blades, stock radiators and stock water pumps worked just fine, shrouds are critical etc.

 

[Trick6]

I share with the thread my experience as follows.

I have installed the PeraCool 16" fan as Dan Masters recommended. I followed this to the letter. The thermostat control switch is located in a "Tee" fitting at the top radiator hose. I do not have an override switch and have not needed it. The radiator is the stock unit which is just fine.

The temp gauge spends most of its time in the area 1/8 inch right of cold. The fan comes on at just shy of half way and only in stalled traffic. When I pause in the drive way to open the garage door the fans comes on and after a very short time is off. I have heard fans other than the PermaCool run much longer.

I have the 55amp GM alternator conversion which puts quite a load (about 400 rpm drop) on the motor at idle when the fan is activated.

This works for me.

 

[philman]

I like it. Thanks, I'm printing it out for my reference library.

 

[BobbyD]

Al... mine performs pretty much like yours with a couple of exceptions: When the Spal thermostat turns the fan on, the fan runs until it drops the temperature something like 10 degrees below it's engagement point. Usually you never notice it because it happens in traffic but it's pretty obvious when you have the car parked. I've never noticed an RPM drop when the fan is running......the fan's electric so there's no load on the engine and the alternator doesn't turn any differently when the fan comes on. Usually people with marginal alternators or electric systems will see a voltage drop on their gauge as electric things come on.

What time you leaving for Stowe?

 

[Geo Hahn]

...surprising results e.g. pushers worked best...

Did they test pullers (other than crankshaft mounted fans)?

As Sam Goldwyn once said "I read part of it all the way through" so I may have missed that.

 

[Trick6]

The rpm drop when the fan comes on is noticeable. The fan is advertised to draw 8.9 amps. I have the fan running on a dedicated circuit with a 30 amp fuse. I thought that the 55amp GM alternator would take care of the electric fan and fuel pump.

I believe that when every there is a load placed on the altenator, the engine is taxed to turn it. It is like having a hand drill turning and you trying to stop it by hand. You hear the drill motor working to over come the resistance placed on it. RPM drop.

Bob, I believe that your upgraded wiring harness might make a huge difference. Better and larger wires, less resistance. Wire composition/size/resistance equations is another discussion.

Here is the fan that I used.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Perma-Cool/771/19126/10002/-1

Here is the Dan Masters article.
https://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6fan.html

 

[2wrench]

Copied the info, Al, in case I ever decide to go there. Everything
being rebuilt, so thought I'd give stock a chance to satisfy me,
but 6 owners seem to like this upgrade for a reason.

 

[Mark Jones]

...surprising results e.g. pushers worked best...

Did they test pullers (other than crankshaft mounted fans)?

As Sam Goldwyn once said "I read part of it all the way through" so I may have missed that.

They never tested the same fan in puller mode. If they had they would have found it to better than in pusher mode. Drawing air through a radiator is mode efficient than trying to push it through.