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Convertable top

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

Yoda
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I've attached a photo of my new convertable top.
I need to know the correct placement of the strip that goes over the windshield.

Does it cover the long slot or does it go above the slot?

Second question:
The strip provided has two internal piping.
Strip that was on previous top had one internal piping.
Which is correct?
When attached, piping faceing out or toward the material?

If anyone has a photo, that would help also.
As always, thank you, roger
 
Here is another photo, which shows better the front of the top. The area in question, is where the wood meets the piece that touches the windshield. Does that area get covered?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Here is another photo, which shows better the front of the top. The area in question, is where the wood meets the piece that touches the windshield. Does that area get covered?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes that is what the welt is to cover. My original top's welt has two of the ribs in it that face outboard.---Fwiw-Keoke
 
Roger,
Did you install the top yourself? How difficult? what brand of top is it?
Tried to post a pic of my piping but it wouldn't go through. Send me your email if you want it.
 
Roger,

Here is a picture that probably answers your questions.
 

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The strip (called a hidem strip)should have two welts. The twin welts close over and hide the heads of the tacks or staples that are installed between them. A small bead of caulking should be applied into the gap between the header bar and the top. The tacks are driven into the wood header bar and the hidem strip is carefuly positioned so it covers the gap.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Roger,
Did you install the top yourself? How difficult? what brand of top is it?
Tried to post a pic of my piping but it wouldn't go through. Send me your email if you want it.

[/ QUOTE ]


Hi Shorn,
I did not install the top. I had a convertible top place do it. I believe best to leave it to the professionals. After visiting them and seeing all the adjustments they had to do, no way could I have done as good a job.

Most of the work was done to make the frame fit better. It involved cutting a part of the frame and welding it to make it fit my car better. Who knows if the frame on my car was the one that came with the car. After all the tweaking, we sent it off to get bead blasted and powder coated.

The top brand is Robbins, material Everflex.
I explained that the edges over the side windows creep up over time. He explained it was because of shrinkage. He could manufacture a cable system that will be sewn into the that top area, like the tops on newer cars have. Really? Yup, photo attached.

I am very pleased with the final fit.
Roger
 
[ QUOTE ]
The strip (called a hidem strip)should have two welts. The twin welts close over and hide the heads of the tacks or staples that are installed between them. A small bead of caulking should be applied into the gap between the header bar and the top. The tacks are driven into the wood header bar and the hidem strip is carefuly positioned so it covers the gap.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thank you for taking the time to explain.
Exactly what I was hoping to hear. A break down of everything, even the correct terms.

Attached I've included a photo of what the frame looked like after power coating. Cheers, Roger
 
Roger, do you know the distance between the back two ribs? I'm missing the straps and was thinking about adding them. Are they suppose to go all the way to the rear?
 
Hi TH,

I believe the 3rd (middle) rib stops at a certain point when the top is in the open position.
The distance between the back two ribs is the same.

Yes, they (the two straps) attach to the rear rib and the middle rib.
The middle rib, attaches the strap with a small curved shape metal plate.
Photo attached.
Roger
 
[ QUOTE ]
Roger, do you know the distance between the back two ribs? I'm missing the straps and was thinking about adding them. Are they suppose to go all the way to the rear?

[/ QUOTE ]

10" between the back two ribs and the straps go all the way to the rear---Keoke
 
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