TR2/3/3A Control head wiring help

[Got_All_4]

Had to take apart my control head for the 3. First reason is that it was very annoying driving it when I would set it to turn and any motion towards the direction your turning would cancel it. Disassembling it there was a lot of what looked like gray RTV silicon on the terminals. That may have had something to do with it if a piece broke off and got into the guts. Thought that was odd though. The wires were so tight in the tube and I tried everything to get them to move with the head but the wires pulled off the terminals. So if anyone can tell me the wiring order I would appreciate it.
Second does anyone know how to stop the gear lube from leaking out the split ferrule on the steering box?

 

[TR3driver]

The screw that is opposite the one with the brass tab under it is for the horn. It gets the thicker NB wire (assuming your column harness uses the same colors as original). You'll probably have to remove the front cover and horn button to keep it from turning as you tighten the nut.

The 3 remaining screws (at the bottom in your photo) are for the turn signals. The middle one gets the green wire from the flasher (ISTR it was light green with a tracer in the harness I got from TRF).

The one to the right gets the GW wire (to the RH lamps). Move the turn lever to the right while you work on that one, to hold the screw in place. The head has a hex that engages with the body to keep it from turning, but it can fall out if the switch isn't closed to hold it in place.

And the one on the left gets the remaining GR wire to the LH lamps. Again use the switch to stop the screw falling out.

Some Hylomar or your favorite RTV should help keep the ferrule from leaking. Plus of course the nut needs to be tightened firmly, so the wedge action of the ferrule both grips the stator tube and closes up the split.

 

[mgedit]

Here is an article I got somewhere that should help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0NJdnKaYqTyR2VFUTVJTmlrNTg/view?usp=sharing

I'm guessing you need a new olive to stop the leak (they are not standard and only fit one way). Here is the WRONG way:



You might find it useful to replace the grub screws with something like these:


Cheers, Mike

 

[Got_All_4]

Wow 68 steps to redo one of these!

 

[GTP1960]

Wow 68 steps to redo one of these!

fwiw: I just replaced my control head with a TRF replica ( including pre-wired harness) for about $100.00.

 

[Got_All_4]

what the part # I looked on their site yesterday and couldn't find one.

 

[TR3driver]

what the part # I looked on their site yesterday and couldn't find one.

Don't look at their site; look at the factory parts catalog! https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffMWQ4N2EzZGQtNjc0Ny00YmE2LWFiN2UtZWYzMjNjNGFiYzY4

201872, but the price is closer to $200.

 

[GTP1960]

201872, but the price is closer to $200.

yeah, probably was closer to $200.00, but TRF always has special combo deals going on to further reduce the price.
(their investor club has saved me a lot of money the last 3 years.)
might be worth it if the renovation is a big pain.

 

[Got_All_4]

Took a look at the new TRF TR3 catalog and that me autocrossing on page III. How cool is that!

 

[GTP1960]

Took a look at the new TRF TR3 catalog and that me autocrossing on page III. How cool is that!

This pic?
That's gotta be at least 9 mniutes of your allotted 15 minutes of fame.
very cool!

 

[Got_All_4]

That's it. Ok to copy it and do a separate post?

 

[GTP1960]

That's it. Ok to copy it and do a separate post?

Sure, why not? Very cool!
( only public pics I've had are on the postoffice wall of fame)