• The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
  • Hey there Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
Tips
Tips

Contact adhesive for open cell foam - seat rebuild [TR4A]

Popeye

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Hi all,

Just curious what the collective wisdom is for using contact adhesive on open cell foam. I am rebuilding the seats on my TR4A, and am using Weldwood high temp Landau adhesive https://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/weldwood-landau-top-trim-high-heat-resistant-contact-cement/ at the suggestion of several folks here as well as on a hot-rodding forum. I am brushing, not spraying it on.

I have made a few trial bonds with the stuff and am struggling to get a strong bond... I am not getting an "instant" bond, and am able to pull apart the pieces a few hours after assembly. Some seem better than others, but none are "strong".

Questions
1. How thick should I spread the stuff? Right now I am putting down one coat on the foam followed immediately by a second coat. Should I put one coat, let it soak in and cure (~10 minutes), and then a second coat?
2. I am using a foam brush - should I use a bristle brush to apply more adhesive?
3. How important is clamping? When I assemble the seat, it may be difficult to get a strong "clamp" while not distorting the thick foam and seat cover.

Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated!

Thank you,
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
I have never had good luck with liquid contact cement on foam. I suspect my problem has been "patience". The open cell foam tends to wick the adhesive down from the surface. That makes it hard for the glue to skin and form that "tacky but not wet" condition you need to get the two surfaces to stick together. I suspect I just never waited long enough for the solvent to evaporate before trying to stick the surfaces together.

For my last few projects I have used 3M spray 90 (green can). 3M 90 is a contact adhesive so you apply it similarly to liquid. Spray it on both pieces of foam and wait a few moments for glue to skin and become tacky. Carefully align the two pieces and push them together. This has worked well for me on fixing foam, attaching vinyl, and other bits of trim.

I also have found 3M 90 to be very handy with metalwork. I will often print out a template full scale on an inkjet printer then bond it to the sheet metal with the spray adhesive. Cut to the lines, punch holes etc., then use lacquer thinner to remove the template and clean the surface of the metal.

EDIT: If you want to try 3M 90, you will find it at DIY centers like Home Depot and Lowes.

EDIT2: Sorry, I really didn't answer your direct questions.
You are applying the glue to both surfaces aren't you? If not, that's a fundamental problem. Apply a uniform, not too thick coat to both surfaces, wait until they are both "dry" but "tacky" then press them together. No clamping should be necessary.
I have never applied more than 1 coat of contact adhesive to each of the surfaces to bond. Time is not what you are after. As I mentioned above, touch the surfaces to inspect the glue. Don't join the two parts until they are both "dry-tacky". Again, no clamping will be needed. As soon as you press the surfaces together they should stick to each other. Attempting to pull them apart should tear the foam.
 
OP
Popeye

Popeye

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Thank you Doug. I am applying the adhesive to both pieces. The reason for using the brush on kind vs spray, is folks in cyberspace say that some sprays do not last well in a hot car interior. Obviously there are "good" and "bad" quality sprays; the 3M 90 you mention seems to be classified in the "good but expensive" column by said experts, as it is good for elevated temperatures.
 

Bayless

Yoda
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Like Doug, I have found the 3M spray to work better than brush-on for upholstery (soft or flexible) stuff. For example, covering metal with vinyl. Although it initially sticks, it eventually fails. YMMV.
 
OP
Popeye

Popeye

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
To conclude; I decided to stick with the Weldwood adhesive. (Mainly b/c I spent about $50 to get the darned stuff - not to ignore the collective wisdom of the BCF!) I found, after 24 hours cure time, it makes an awesomely strong bond (stronger than the foam), and remains flexible. I had not let the adhesive cure long enough when I made the original post.

My process is to apply a light coat of adhesive to the foam (both sides), let cure for about 5-10 minutes, then apply a second slightly heavier coating, let cure for 15-20 minutes and then glue. I find when using the adhesive with open cell foam, that it does not permanently "grab" during initial contact. This allows for some fine re-positioning of the parts. Once all is aligned, I squeeze as best as I can, and then let the assembly sit overnight before applying stress to the part.

Note, when gluing the vinyl / foam center support cover to the aluminum cover, I had immediate permanent stick; as there is much more contact between the two pieces.
 
OP
Popeye

Popeye

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
Also, inspired by a photo in Alan Turner's excellent article on seat rebuilds, I found medium binder clips to be a perfect temporary clamp when assembling the seat covers. The seat covers can slowly be eased into place, pulling in various directions to get everything smooth. When satisfied with the fit, one binder clip can be removed and replaced with the permanent clip.

Seats3.jpg
 

dklawson

Yoda
Offline
Thanks for the update. I'm glad you found a little more time was all that was needed.

You will also find the binder clips are very handy when fitting new convertible tops to the front rail. I keep an assortment of the clips in the garage for all sorts of uses.
 

Jerry

Darth Vader
Gold
Country flag
Offline
There are two Wellwoods, One with solvent and one water base. I would use the waterbase on anything with vinyl. The other will grip for 6 months and then pull the backing off the vinyl. With both, the true bond is after 24 hours. The solvent will grab harder at first but the waterbase catches up at 24 hours.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
AHSebring How do I create "Contact" to "Start Conversation" in my About Tab? FORUM Navigation Questions 1
CARSINC How to remove factory contact cement? Spridgets 9
71TR6 TR2/3/3A Control Head horn contact Triumph 7
RAC68 Professional Trim and Upholstary Contact Cement Austin Healey 4
B "Healey 5-Speed"/Pete Delaney Contact Austin Healey 27
S TR2/3/3A Contact cement for vinyl Triumph 6
Michael Oritt Brake pedal contact or mercury switch Austin Healey 19
Tinkerman TR2/3/3A Removing old contact cement Triumph 6
TR4nut TR2/3/3A TR3/4 Water Pumps - Anyone have the ebay rebuilder contact info? Triumph 5
Tinkerman How to remove dried on contact cement? Triumph 11
T Wheel rim corrosion at tire bead contact Austin Healey 1
TonyPanchot Art Lipp Contact Triumph 3
Tinkerman Fun With Contact Cement On My Dash Triumph 2
ekamm contact cement use Triumph 7
ekamm Contact Cement Go Away Triumph 3
T Guys - contact me before bidding on Tr-man items Triumph 13
Newkie running lights contact or lack of? MG 2
mccalebr Trying to contact Jeff Dahn [Bugeye58] Spridgets 4
Gray_Cat Morrisservice Contact Spridgets 4
angelfj1 Personal Contact at Moss Motors Triumph 6
CraigLandrum Weldwood contact cement oopsie Triumph 28
jlaird contact Bud direct via emale Spridgets 5
1965_MGB MGB MK1 MGB Horn Contact Question MG 0
emann BE horn push contact too long? Spridgets 8
Michael Oritt Kendall Jones contact info Racing 3
bcliff Contact info for Gaston [the dash guy] Triumph 16
jaybird MGV8 & MG2006 contact list MG 0
C Hub Rebuilder Contact? Triumph 0
Alfasudcrazy TR6 TR6 contact breaker points - closing Triumph 3
T CONTACT Sunbeam (Rootes) 1
Editor_Reid MGB-GT Want to Contact MGB-GT V8 Owners MG 9
J Contact OL Oxidation Solvent Restoration & Tools 0
Michael Oritt Best Seat Trim Adhesive Austin Healey 8
G Valve Cover Gasket Silicone Adhesive Austin Healey 5
R TR2/3/3A Weather strip adhesive Triumph 11
J TR2/3/3A Body Mounting Strip Adhesive Triumph 10
N TR4/4A pvc adhesive Triumph 4
glemon General Tech Upholstery Adhesive Triumph 11
JFS Wedge Diff Cover Gasket Adhesive Triumph 10
DNK Wedge Adhesive Help Triumph 5
glemon Rubber trim adhesive Restoration & Tools 5
DNK Wedge Anybody have any "good" adhesive? Triumph 2
NutmegCT Loctite weatherstrip adhesive Restoration & Tools 6
TR4A_IRS Best adhesive for PCV diaphragm? Triumph 5
Nelson "High" temperature adhesive Spridgets 7
I Adhesive suggestions? Spridgets 4
T Front Shroud Adhesive Austin Healey 10
bigjones How to use non-adhesive wiring harness tape Spridgets 2
sparkydave Adhesive for seats Spridgets 1
W Adhesive for seat padding Spridgets 1

Similar threads

Top