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Confused with starting/ignition/timing

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you mention a light that goes out and then comes on. Where is this light wired, and what kind of light is it?

quote]

Chris I think they are talking about a test light. Mine is made from an 1172 bulb with a 2' length of wire soldered on the brass side of the bulb and another 2' length soldered on the end terminal with alligator clips on the opposite ends
 
10musketeer- John
If you can't get it pretty quick I may be able to come you and help you check it out tomorrow if you want, you are up in Bellevue?
Bill
 
Actually i'm over in central WA, and may not be able to get at this for a couple of days. Thanks for the kind offer though.

I apologize if my replies were a little disjointed. Looking back at this thread I see that I was missing a couple of the replies earlier, but it seems to be working now. I think it was a problem on my end. My computer was really slow earlier today.

To clear up some of the confusion, I was using a test light and I did type the wrong number. I did check the gap at .014 instead of .004.

Thanks for all your info so far, it's actually helping me sort out what was a legitimate test and what was a wild goose chase. At this point I think I'll take the dizzy off and really look it over and make sure everything is up to par. Then at least I'll know where I'm at.
 
Not sure either, but thanks to you guys I'm set straight. It's amazing how many problems I chase in the wrong direction, only to be put back on the path by you guys. Hopefully this one will turn out the same way!
 
I would surely look very close at where and how my high tenson wires are going. Can it really be fireing in the correct order, if you are useing a side mount cap it is very easy to use the wrong hole.
 
Only bad thing 'bout the innernet is we can't crawl thru it yet. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
After thinking about it overnight I am betting that when you reassembled the distributer you may not have connected the condensor to the points/power wire but may have it on the outside of the plastic washer but still under the nut. Since you have sputtering no matter which way you hookup the spark wires and sputtering is a symptom of a bad/missing condensor.
Bill
 
I'll look at that. I'll have a look at a diagram if I can find one and what I have and see. Unfortunately I have to be away from the car for a few hours, but I'll look at it later today. I was wondering about the condensor, is there a way to test one? I've never heard of one, other than "replace often".
 
No sense replaceing unless you change the points. Kind of obvious when they go and yep check that connection.
 
There is no really easy way the check a condensor for a home garage. I just think that the condensor may not be "in-circuit"(electrically connected), nothing more.
Bill
 
I'll rarely replace a condensor in less than 50K miles unless the points show pitting soon after replacement. A known good condensor is worth its weight in ... in good condensors. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
An a bad one will...well, lets just say "frustrate" you! One of the most frustrating experiences was a condenser going bad out on the road. I had an extra one in the tool box too, but never thought of it as the problem!! Found it in the driveway after a flatbed-ride home! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/mad.gif
 
Another Update...

Tonight I looked at the plastic assembly that holds the points, condensor and coil together and made sure I have 12v across the board when the points were open. It appears there is a good connection between them all. Still only pops and bangs and even some fire breathing from the carb. (by the way I'm back on the old "good condensor" as well)

Then I checked and cleaned all four plugs and made sure they all sparked nicely, which they did and still nothing.

Then I did another static time and tried again---nothing.

Cranked the engine over and slowly rotated the dizzy and noted that it banged around the spot where the static timing was set, but did nothing at all other positions.

So I seem to have all of the ingredients; fuel, spark and air, so it must still be a timing problem.? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif

Maybe I'll cry uncle and go with that flamethrower electronic dizzy. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif I guess I'll keep plugging away until the air gets warmer outside.
 
What happens to the tach whilst you're cranking over? If the tach needle does not move, the coil is not firing. Great diagnpstic toll for low tension ignition faults.

Peter
 
I swear it is 180 out. Just seems it has to be.
 
Jack, if it was 180 out, it would start and run, just very badly! The coil idea sound like something worth investigating!
 
Fat spark on all 4 plugs should indicate that the coil, points, and wires are functioning at least enough to run. Do me a favor and make sure that the condensor is well grounded. I know that we've been through the 180 Degrees thing already but just for grins and giggles, run the engine back up to TDC and make sure that the rotor is pointing to the plug wire you are calling #1 and second check your firing order in a counter clockwise direction. If it won't fire then swap all the wires 2 spots to the left or right and try again. It sounds to me like the condensor might not be grounded somehow.
JC
 
THAT was my initial impression JC!! Like the Doc. said up above, I wish we could somehow "come through" the net and take a look! This thread is shaping up into a poser!!

I know this sounds silly, but have you checked to make sure your fuel tank is not empty?
 
This may be of some help to you. It is certainly some of the best literature I've read on Lucas points ignitions. I must credit the work to Doug Lawson. He has helped endless people out of jams here on the board. Anyway, if I can get this attached it will be worth the read.

Sorry, it is 375kb and I can't attach it. Send me an email address and I'll email it to you. It is a pdf file entitled Lucas Points Ignitions. It is very detailed but written in plainspeak that even I could understand.
JC
 
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