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compatible transmissions for Bugeye?

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ichthos

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Anyone know what year transmissions from a midget or sprite are compatible with a 948 Bugeye without modifications being made?
I am considering putting a later transmission into a smooth case.Thanks,
Kevin
 
Kevin
Why don't you just put in any old rib case?

Fred
 
I second what Fred said! It's a direct swap. The other alternative is putting in a datsun 5-speed kit which needs almost no modification if even none..
 
have a rebuilt ribcase for you, I am going to pull in for a datsun 5 speed swap
 
Gerard will weigh in here i think, but it's not quite a direct swap. I don't know much, but I seem to recall different clutch throw lengths, or facings, .. The flywheels are not the same... something ... something.. blah blah...

IIRC ... YMMV

gather more information before assuming a direct swap is possible... I know it can be done with readily available parts though.
 
The rear engine covers are different if you're putting a rib case on a 948 engine. The covers on the later cars were cast, and so were a bit thicker than the pressed steel ones on the Bugeyes.
 
I admit I am a bit frustrated and confused as to what I should be doing at this point. Putting in a different transmission does not seem all that simple. My original idea was to rebuild a smooth case. You guys were right though in that parts would take me years to find. Even then, I am not sure how reliable a smooth case is. I thought about trying to put a rib case into a smooth case, but then I spoke to a British mechanic who said I should be looking at a 73 or 73 as they were designed/wears better. After looking at a 73 transmission, however, the case looks very different, and I am not sure it even has a chance for being put into a smooth case transmission. I really don't want a Datsun transmission. Any other thoughts?
Kevin
 
Surely ANY rib-case would be better than a smooth-case.
 
Is there anyone besides me that has a smooth case in their bugeye? I know a number of you have talked about the benefits of later rib case transmissions, but is one of the benefits that they hold up longer than the smooth case?
Kevin
 
Yes, I have a smooth case in Mr. Toad, but I have obtained a rib case, plus a cast rear cover, which will be going in. As I see it, the advantages of the rib case over the smooth case is that the RC is more robust than the SC, in that some of the bearings in the SC are bronze bushings, where as the RC has proper bearings. The RC also has a closer gear ratio than the SC, which means that you don't have to wind up the rpm's quite so much in order to shift into the next higher gear. Plus, the parts for the RC are much more available for the RC than the SC. I'm sure that there are more advantages that others can add, if I missed anything.
 
I've got a smooth case and 948 that I just pulled out.
I've got a rib case and a 1275, and just recently got a datsun 5 speed. Someday the 1275 and 5 spd will go in.
Since I've run into some "issues" with my 1275 rebuild, I think I'll put the 948 and smooth case back in after paint is done. It's probably take me some time to get the mechanicals on the new drivetrain ready.

When the smooth case was in, the only real problem I noticed was the lack of synchro on 1st gear. Of course, this is the same with a rib case. I don't think, functionally, there is much advantage to the rib case. The main advantage I see is the availability of parts.

Fred
 
Maybe I have low expectations compare to eveyone else, but I thoroughly enjoy driving my bugeye just the way it is (stock). For those of you that have gone to the ribcase, what exactly has to be done - are there any other modifications, and does this vary with various trasnmission production years? The reason I ask this is I was looking through Horler's book and it looks like there were a number of changes to the rib case. Do any of them have a synchro for first? Also, I had some questions on the rear plate between the engine and transmission. I have a thick plate on it now, but I also have a plate from a spare engine I have that has a thin plate. Are these the two plates thicknesses that a number of you have referred to? My car originally had the thick plate with a smooth case, and that is what I have in it at the moment.
 
ichthos said:
Maybe I have low expectations compare to eveyone else, but I thoroughly enjoy driving my bugeye just the way it is (stock). For those of you that have gone to the ribcase, what exactly has to be done - are there any other modifications, and does this vary with various trasnmission production years? The reason I ask this is I was looking through Horler's book and it looks like there were a number of changes to the rib case. Do any of them have a synchro for first? Also, I had some questions on the rear plate between the engine and transmission. I have a thick plate on it now, but I also have a plate from a spare engine I have that has a thin plate. Are these the two plates thicknesses that a number of you have referred to? My car originally had the thick plate with a smooth case, and that is what I have in it at the moment.
Click to expand...

No smoothcase or ribcase has a synchro in first gear.

If you are enjoying it, why change? I gather that a ribcase is more robust and repairable but, if it is all working, just drive!!! If at some point you come across a decent ribcase, buy it and set it aside - or have it refreshed and set aside.

One of the really important things about restoring cars in general (and these boards in particular) is knowing when to stop and finish and drive. When I was doing Ms Triss (while there are a couple of things I kind of wish I had done) I eventually realized that every good idea (and there are many) was another $1000 and six months. That is not to say that ideas are bad but that we have to decide for ourselves what we want in a car. Kellysguy and JackLaird and TrevorJessie each have different cars with vastly different specs and different expectations. Each car suits them perfectly. In other words, don't worry, enjoy your driving!
 
JPSmit said:
If you are enjoying it, why change? I gather that a ribcase is more robust and repairable but, if it is all working, just drive!!! If at some point you come across a decent ribcase, buy it and set it aside - or have it refreshed and set aside.
Click to expand...

Sage advice. One must also consider how hard (and much) do you plan to drive the car.
 
I would only add that for most of us, the fun of the hobby is both restoration/modication/tinkering as well as driving.
If driving alone was the whole thing we'd all probably have more modern cars.

Fred
 
I like working on my bugeye, but after taking 20 years for a total restoration, I need some serious drive time for a while. The only reason for my concern over another transmission right now is that my second gear (or synchro) seems a little worn - something I missed during restoration (My car was not running when I bought it for $100, so I didn't know what worked or not.)I'm not sure how long it will be when I finally need another transmission, but I want to have another ready to go when I do get to that point. This time I will be pulling the second transmission completely apart to check all parts for wear. I am just trying to figure out which path to take at this point. I really appreciate all your help.
Kevin
 
ichthos said:
I like working on my bugeye, but after taking 20 years for a total restoration, I need some serious drive time for a while. The only reason for my concern over another transmission right now is that my second gear (or synchro) seems a little worn - something I missed during restoration (My car was not running when I bought it for $100, so I didn't know what worked or not.)I'm not sure how long it will be when I finally need another transmission, but I want to have another ready to go when I do get to that point. This time I will be pulling the second transmission completely apart to check all parts for wear. I am just trying to figure out which path to take at this point. I really appreciate all your help.
Kevin
Click to expand...

In that case just find a solid ribcase and ancillaries and work on it in your spare time. 72-74 are certainly the "newest" transmissions but if it is good nick, any ribcase should do.
 
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