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clutch won't disengage?!

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philman

philman

Jedi Knight
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OK, not specifically a TR problem; however.... Decided I needed my '76 FHC on the road again after sitting since last may. Running well, as long as you don't try to disengage the clutch to shift into gear. Can't shift into gear while engine is running, and if trying to start in gear the car lurches. I can bleed the system. New slave cylinder. No good.

Can the Master cylinder force enough fluid through the system to bleed the line but not enough pressure to disengage the clutch? No problems with clutch when I parked it behind the shop, but fluid was very dirty. Thanks for any help.
 
Uh oh... this was my problem. Futzed around with bleeding every way but standing on my head, opening up the slave and MC for inspection, etc... now I am pulling the gearbox as I think the clutch died in there (other symptoms - dramatic and noisy -- appeared).

How much movement are you getting from the slave cylinder pushrod. Take Sharpie pen and mark just where the pushrod comes out of the boot. Watch and measure whilst your assistant depresses the clutch pedal. Should be about 5/8".

Yes the MC can fail w/o leaking... that little seal at the reservoir end is a check valve that keeps the piston from just pushing fluid back into the reservoir. You might see a slight rise in the fluid level in the reservoir (and little movement at the slave) if this is occuring.

Hope your story has a happier ending than mine.
 
ok, will wait for assistant (wife) to become available to verify pushrod movement. If the disc is stuck to the flywheel, how would I free it up short of pulling the engine and transmission and replacing the lot? Would high revving shake it loose?
 
I didn't go to the linked cited but a usual method is to get underway then depress the clutch, then lock the brakes.

This did not work when my TR3 clutch froze (after sitting for a year) and I had to resort to jacking up the rear, starting in gear, revving the engine and then my wife abruptly lowers the jack.

As the saying goes 'Somethings gotta give'. Worked fine with no harm done but use your own judgement and a great deal of care.

I tried this on my final drive in the TR4 just because I became convinced it was not a hydraulic problem nor the dreaded broken clutch fork pin. What 'gave' was probably the clutch (which was probably faulty anyway)... hence the R&R that is underway.

I've spent more time on my back this weekend than a Luge Medalist.
 
thanks guys, I went to the linked site. Followed their suggestions. Put rear of car on Jackstands, started car in 2nd gear with clutch pedal depressed, revs about 4k then jammed on the brakes. After about the fifth or sixth try the clutch freed up. Now my fhc is back on the road.
 
oh, replacing the slave cylinder was ok too, the old one was leaking. And I will need new one for my '81 dhc (mis-placed it somewhere)
 
Now ya gotta go & blow the gunk out... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
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